Wheel spacers

Alan H.

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I’m looking for experiences (pros/cons) with wheel spacers. I’m planning out my build, and the wheels I would like to use require 1-1/4in less b.s. and conversion to 5x5 b.p. I’ve been directed toward Spidertrax, but I’d like to hear from the TJ/LJ community.

Thanks!
Alan H.
 
I have spidertrax 1.25 spacers.

I would pay the extra amount for Spidertrax vs. China stuff.
Steel made and machined in USA gives me a bit of extra confidence... possibly a placebo effect.. but i dont regret paying more.

After all... any failure with that specific product would probably be catastrophic.

Side note... i was agianst getting wheel spacers cuz i didnt want my tires to protrude out.. i try to aesthetically stay as close to stock as possible.

The 1.25 inches looked good... can hardly notice the change.
 
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I've bought several less expensive sets from TitanWheelAcc on Ebay ($90 for all 4) and never had any problems running 35" tires with them. One of my Jeeps even took a hit directly to the wheel at 50 mph and the wheel spacer held up fine. The rest of the Jeep, not so much.
I torque them to spec and put a dap of silicone seal on the lugs, so I never have to pull the wheels to see if the spacers have loosened up. They stay tight until you decide to remove them.
white jeep (2) (2017_11_20 00_38_12 UTC).jpg
 
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I have spidertrax 1.25 spacers.

I would pay the extra amount for Spidertrax vs. China stuff.
Steel made and machined in USA gives me a bit of extra confidence... possibly a placebo effect.. but i dont regret paying more.

After all... any failure with that specific product would probably be catastrophic.

Side note... i was agianst getting wheel spacers cuz i didnt want my tires to protrude out.. i try to aesthetically stay as close to stock as possible.

The 1.25 inches looked good... can hardly notice the change.
Thanks, Sancho. I’m the same way; I’m not interested in a wider stance, but the Rock Krawler kit combined with 35x12.5 tires require 3-3/4in b.s. Any issues with the spacers loosening up? Do you remove wheels and check torque on a regular basis? Use thread locker on installation?

Thanks,
Alan H.
 
Thanks, Sancho. I’m the same way; I’m not interested in a wider stance, but the Rock Krawler kit combined with 35x12.5 tires require 3-3/4in b.s. Any issues with the spacers loosening up? Do you remove wheels and check torque on a regular basis? Use thread locker on installation?

Thanks,
Alan H.
It will come with red thread locker... and i have checked torque settings after 500 miles or so... per instructions.

Funny thing is.... once you retorque something... isnt the thread locker useless? The seal/hold is broken right?

Anyways... the spacers are secure.. and removing them to upgrade brakes and rotors was not as tough as i thought it would be.
 
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The thread locker you are right is useless at that point assuming they move. I ran spacers on my WK and they aren't too bad but to do it correctly its annoying.

  1. Install
  2. a few days later pull tires and check torque (what I do is check torque a tad lower to see if they have loosened not to really retorque)
  3. then a few days later check torque on the tires
 
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The problem I'm finding (just bought rims) is the 5x4.5 bolt pattern is being phased out by most manufacturers on their newer rims. I had wanted to go to 17s but ended up having to stay in 15s without spending 2k in wheels.

Sure there are a lot of options but not many options if you want 17-inch rims and 3.75 backspacing.
 
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The problem I'm finding (just bought rims) is the 5x4.5 bolt pattern is being phased out by most manufacturers on their newer rims. I had wanted to go to 17s but ended up having to stay in 15s without spending 2k in wheels.

Sure there are a lot of options but not many options if you want 17-inch rims and 3.75 backspacing.
I have no idea what you speak of. Wheel selection for 5x4.5 BP is massive. In many inch widths
 
If I were going semi permanent I’d go higher end, but mine are temporary so I went with chinesium. They’ve been more than fine, but generally I’d prefer to not run them on my goal build.
 
I have no idea what you speak of. Wheel selection for 5x4.5 BP is massive. In many inch widths

But that number is going down every month. I ordered 3 sets of rims before I found a set that wasn't discontinued. And as I mentioned I initially wanted 17s but the number of 17s in 5x4.5 and 3.75 backspacing is quite small. This is why wheel spacers/adapters will become more common.

There will always be a few standard 5x4.5 rims but any new models created very likely will not be 5x4.5. Look at beadlocks there are fewer options today than there were 5 years ago.

With the JL out (and companies dealing with Covid) you'll start to see a lot of manufactures starting to lower their support of the TJ. I've already seen companies like JCR, and TMR starting to discontinue some fairly popular parts. Only makes sense as the number of cars/jeeps with 5x4.5 on the road is going down, the supply will go own and the offerings will go down. Also need to factor in the used market.
 
I run the Spidertrax 1.25 spacers with the factory 16x8 Moab wheels. I have no issues with them. The hub centric feature makes install and removal a breeze, and may provide a degree of redundancy.

I personally would avoid the imports, as the quality on them (alloy properties, machining tolerance) can vary significantly. The Spidertrax are made of a known alloy and have a narrow tolerance, and are consistent from part to part.

5x4.5 is a very common wheel pattern outside of Jeeps. It is also used on 3.5k trailer axles and numerous vehicles.

Personally I would stick with 15x8 (or 16x8) unless you have a specific need for 17” rims.
 
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Your question about experience, I have had spacers on my 05 TJ since I got it 4 + years ago. Not had a problem.
Get the ones that bolt to stud and have their own studs, the “stud through” is not good.

I like the tires wide bull dog kinda look personally and I totally support those that don’t like that look too, ha...better that we’re not all clones.

Chris pointed out you can get the ones that change bolt pattern and there you go, opens up you options.

I see no benefit to extra backspace rims if you don’t want that look, but if you do go for it no spacer or do both.

I believe real wide puts pressure on bearings, may be a myth, but seems logical to me, I don’t care I like the look, ha, and will repair that if it’s an issue.
 
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Why is that better?
I'm not going to get into the whole bearing stress issue. A differing back spaced wheel with equal distance to a spacer use will have no more leverage on the bearings comparing between each other. In other words they're both adding more leverage.

There are spacers that are just plates using only the hubs studs to hold it. Whatever that spacer thickness is takes that much distance away from the distance the wheel is fastened by said stud.

Then there are the bolt in spacers with new studs. While these have a new set of five studs you're now doubling up the lugnuts for each wheel by needing to torque down the spacer bolts first, then torque down the wheel lugs to the spacer.

As a certified state inspector in Pennsylvania I can tell you they're illegal. Period. Im not sure wgat the yahoo was thinking making them illegal in my state but my personal thoughts are this.....................

I don't care if you hurt yourself but hurting other innocent motorists and or bystanders is wrong. Really wrong. I know people have run spacers for a long time with no issues but the fact still remains you're adding a component that could pose a danger. Inferior material could be a cause but the biggest of all is human error. Setting a spacer and forgetting about it happens much more than people checking them routinely.

Moreover IMO adding a component to a high stress area is a bad idea.
Stacking blocks on the rear of a truck under leaf springs...people get away with it most times but a block can kick out from under. A single block is legal in the rear but the rear has mostly a vertical stress.
You can get some torque twist and there is the iffy situation. You stack blocks and now it gets even more hairy.

The front should never get a block under a leaf because we still have the vertical stress but have added a great degree of lateral/horizontal stress by this being a steered axle.
Do you stack blocks under a body to get a desired lift height or just one block of proper length?
Would you weld two coil pieces together to get a desired coil height? A good weld is stronger than the steel itself.
Bad idea. Adding another component is making a daisy chain of things and the more you add bad odds increase.

Technically I'm supposed to fail a vehicle with front side tinted windows. Do I let some go. Maybe ;) ...but Tinted glass has no impact on the other innocent motorists. Zero!

Human error...
We've seen many rigs come in with spacers for inspection or other repairs and it's really astounding how much neglect goes on. Many have a stud missing or broken on the spacer side of things holding it to the hub. How could that be? Well they couldn't see it.
Fucking incredible really...that things like this get ignored yet we see them way too much. Spacers not torqued down to proper specs any longer. Perhaps they never were to begin with.

The biggest thing that annoys me is people want to modify their rigs and have such little care about safety of others. They are in such a frenzy to modify the rig and are looking for the cheapest way possible. Everything is dollars driven instead of function, fit and most importantly safety.

I'm not saying everyone is a cheap skate as some might be trying to keep a certain wheel that was never offered with a certain BS.....

....but again IMO you're altering a vehicle from OEM which brings a need to move your stance outward. You got a bigger tire and now rub....but you just loooovvveee those factory wheels. No damn factory wheel is worth a loss of safety by having to add a spacer. Maybe you consistently check your spacers abd the condition there of. What about the next person you sell your rig too? What about the person that asks how you got those wheels to sit like that. Spacers. You can go into the big speech of always monitoring them but will they? I can promise you at least half won't. More people than you can imagine get in these machines and just drive with absolutely no sense of feel to what their vehicle is doing.
There's a reason we put a god damn next oil change sticker on their windshield.

Modifying costs money. Modifying properly and safely costs even more money. It's the game we play but to play it right you need to pay.

Get some wheels with proper BS instead of creating a damn daisy chain.

Sorry for the long response but I felt the need to vent on this and worked at it off and on this morning.

Good day
 
Then there are the bolt in spacers with new studs. While these have a new set of five studs you're now doubling up the lugnuts for each wheel by needing to torque down the spacer bolts first, then torque down the wheel lugs to the spacer.

As a certified state inspector in Pennsylvania I can tell you they're illegal. Period. Im not sure wgat the yahoo was thinking making them illegal in my state but my personal thoughts are this.....................
I hope the state doesn't figure out that regardless of the number of lug nuts holding the tire to the unit bearing, it only has 3 bolts holding it into the steering knuckle and they are smaller than a lug stud in diameter.

I also hope they don't inspect 1 ton dually pick-ups with the same intent since all of them from the factory have a very large wheel spacer so they can use the same rim front and rear.