Looking for tummy tuck advice
- Thread starter Josh03
- Start date
Pressurized
TJ Enthusiast
No doubt... The full enchilada takes a lot of tinkering and clearance issues and driveline adjustments, etc... It's not plug and play for the majority of installations. I went with the "extra clearance skid" from UCF and it still was a lot of work. I can only imagine what you get with the Ultra High Clearance skid (typically only used with manual trans). But the clearance is beautiful!!! My daughter is 5'6"...
ErikOffroad
TJ Enthusiast
Or you can do what I did and have the Amish build you a shed with a 8x10 foot door
I have the UCF extra clearance skid in aluminum and have no complaints other than the frame holes being a Little out of alignment with the holes on my frame. Strength wise it takes a beating and keeps on going.
Along with the 1-inch body/MML; I’m running a 2.5-inch OME heavy rate spring, savvy double adjustable uppers, and just a standard relocation bracket for the stock rear track bar. I wanted to tuck more but I didn’t want the pinion Angles to be too extreme and at the time I didn’t want to buy new lowers to dial it in more. Maybe down the line I’ll look into something different but it works well for the wheeling I do.
ErikOffroad
TJ Enthusiast
You could remove the roof and roll cage and just fold down the windshield. Not like you need it anyway
They advertise that, but I tried it and it definitely requires a hammer to the tub and piano fingers. a 1" lift is still the way to go.
But they also don't sell the skid for my year range anymore so maybe there's something to that as well..
Interesting. At one point I had the Rokmen 1/2” body lift and their skid and I didn’t have to hammer anything at all.
Yep, it’s a rabbit hole that you really have to be prepared for. I went into it thinking I could have it done in a day. Boy was I wrong! I ran into many of the same issues you did.
So true. I tried to install it on my stock rubicon and quickly realized the need for upper control arms at the least.
Yes, and you really need lowers as well. Doing it without a full set of adjustable control arms is a bad idea.
Thanks, my reasoning for doing it now is because I'm ordering a new drive line and want to make sure I get it right. An inch and a half gain is better than nothing.
+1 on it being more work than it appears upfront. I didn’t have any plans to do a TT. Well I did an SYE, and like the OP, I thought well all I need is a belly skid for a TT so why not? I got the UCF extra clearance skid and it was all downhill. Lots of tinkering. It’s much better now but it’s still not perfect. I should have done the JB SS SYE if I planned it out correctly. My rear shocks still kiss my spring perches despite grinding them down some. Had some mild vibrations from exhaust touching my frame. I “think” my rear TB hits my gas tank on certain flexes (I hear a clunk but not sure what it actually is). With all that said, overall, I am happy with the UCF extra clearance. Not a full tuck but much better than factory clearance. Just be prepared to do a lot of fine tuning.
If you end up with UCF and get into the rocks; I’d recommend counter sinking the holes that mount the engine skid to the center skid and some sort of bolt head protector for the frame mounting bolts. I used ones from Barnes4x4 and they work great; but I would consider them a consumable item based on your wheeling style.
From my experience, don't bother with Rockjock rear adjustables. The single and double adjustables didn't offer enough length for a 4" lift with Tummy Tuck.
My single adjustable arms didn't have enough length. When I talked with them the doubles weren't going to be long enough either. Had to have them make longer doubles for the rear. Over and over they said that they aren't made for use with the Savvy Tummy tuck. Their rep also said he thinks they may have changed lengths at some point.
Looking at your rear control arms pics, the lower is barely out and the single adj. upper is way out. You're right, it's too short.
I purchased the CE-9801HS kit and added parts like Currie rear trac bar. I purchased around the Currie Rock Jock transition period.
My anti-rocks included with kit came in the older style straight bar and not like the current design.
I purchased the CE-9801HS kit and added parts like Currie rear trac bar. I purchased around the Currie Rock Jock transition period.
My anti-rocks included with kit came in the older style straight bar and not like the current design.