Pick up an $8 trailer light from any auto parts store and stick it in the center cap hole of the wheel. Just connect it to the third brake wiring. Super easy cheap solution.Wrapped up the install on the MORRyde tailgate kit I picked up from another forum member.
Although the instructions didn't call for it, I wanted to prevent metal to metal contact, so the first step was applying 3 thin coats of Flex Seal to all mounting surfaces over 4 days so it could dry and cure properly. Turned out great and I wound up with a roughly 1/16" thick barrier.
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Once the prep work was out of the way, it was time for the 'one hour installation' according to all the retailers that sell this kit. While not particularly difficult, it was by no means a 60-minute job working alone - heavy, awkward pieces and crappy directions ensured that.
I'm really happy with the final result. This is a quality piece of equipment that will protect the TJ for years to come; it's amazing how stout it is. While the OEM hinges were in good shape and I've always made a point of checking to ensure the tire's tight against the snubbers, it was a real surprise to feel how much more smoothly the MORryde hinges operate and how much more sturdy the whole set up feels.
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The only downside is that now I need to figure out and pull the trigger on a 3rd brake light mod I wasn't 100% sure I wanted to do since the OEM 3rd brake light won't fit. The kit comes with offset brackets for use with tires larger than 33" (which mine aren't), and without the brackets, the lip of the plate on the tailgate pushes the OEM brake light about 1" forward of the mounting holes. Oh well...at least I can call that a 'repair' and not a mod or accessorizing!
I need to do this too.Tightened up the parking brake after telling myself I was going to since last Fall. Ran out of threads on the adjuster so I threw a washer on each end of an extra shock bushing, put the nut back on and bought some back.
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One of those quick tasks related to an often used component that I feel stupid putting off for as long as I did!I need to do this too.
Tell me about it. I have to pull mine all the way up to get it to hold at all, and I usually chock the rear wheel as well. So, since both I and @voodooridr need to adjust ours, please save us 3 trips out from under the Jeep to the toolbox and tell us what size wrench is needed!One of those quick tasks related to an often used component that I feel stupid putting off for as long as I did!
13mm and likely an adjustable to hold the splitter.Tell me about it. I have to pull mine all the way up to get it to hold at all, and I usually chock the rear wheel as well. So, since both I and @voodooridr need to adjust ours, please save us 3 trips out from under the Jeep to the toolbox and tell us what size wrench is needed!
Thank you Sir. Armed with this knowledge, I was able to keep the trips out from under the Jeep down to just 2! Somebody had greased the lead screw, so nothing was rusted in place, and this 5 minute job only took 7-1/2 minutes instead of the usual 45!13mm and likely an adjustable to hold the splitter.
You can replace that retainer for under $10. I did this same project this week. Inner boot was bad and retaining clip broke taking the outer boot off.I replaced my inner shift boot and put a new retaining clip on the outer boot. Should be much quieter and less exhaust odor now in the cab. Problem with the retaining clip for the outer boot is that my clip contacts on the console are completely worn. Any fixes or just scrap the original and order a replacement two-piece?
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Also put in new headlamps but still haven’t resolved my low beam issue. Back to the drawing board.
Glad they made it to you so quick!Replaced my front lower control arms with new to me Zone ones courtesy of @jesseshoots. So now front and rear LCAs are all the same. yay.
Yep. Yesterday was good because it was warm and I could get them painted. They went on this afternoon pretty easy. Now I'll need to brave the frigid weather tomorrow for an alignment check.Glad they made it to you so quick!