Is it required to run 30 spline axle shafts in my Dana 30 with a selectable locker?

I don’t have yeild strength number for the 2 shaft sizes. But my experience with 27/27 tells me the housing will fail long before either size shaft is an issue.
IMHO, manual hubs are a thing of the past and add zero value to a TJ
Noted!

My plan to install a new selectable locker.

The way I see it is:

#1
27 inner / 27 outer - 27 spline locker

Advantage: Spare axle shafts (stock)
Disadvantage: I will not be able to install a manual hub if I ever want in the future. Even though I may never do it.

#2
30 inner / 27 outer - 30 spline locker

Advantage/Disadvantage: The opposites of the option #1

  • I realise that 27 inner / 27 outer are capable enough for Dana 30, and that I dont need 30 splines strength wise.
  • I cannot really understand why 27/27 is a more expensive option over 30/27 and 30/30.

So, it is mainly a question of which locker/carrier (27 vs 30 splines) to install in order to be future proof for my goals/use!
 
I am not exactly getting confused.

I understand that the simpler and cheaper way for me is to run the kit you suggested in the link.

But, I like to learn , so I am just trying to figure out all the possible options.

Plus I kinda like manual hubs, I don't know why. So, I want to explore this path a little bit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0078UA000/?tag=wranglerorg-20
This is the cheapest kit I've seen and one I just installed. Unless you really have a specific need to run lockout hubs, i.e. vibration issues with larger tires and higher lift, it's not a cost effective modification. The only significant advantage to them is being able to unlock, if you break an axle. Installing the kit requires a press (for the studs) and means replacing rotors can get pricey (the center bore is enlarged for the hub body). Also, the front width changes +3/4" on each side.
 
Noted!

My plan to install a new selectable locker.

The way I see it is:

#1
27 inner / 27 outer - 27 spline locker

Advantage: Spare axle shafts (stock)
Disadvantage: I will not be able to install a manual hub if I ever want in the future. Even though I may never do it.

#2
30 inner / 27 outer - 30 spline locker

Advantage/Disadvantage: The opposites of the option #1

  • I realise that 27 inner / 27 outer are capable enough for Dana 30, and that I dont need 30 splines strength wise.
  • I cannot really understand why 27/27 is a more expensive option over 30/27 and 30/30.

So, it is mainly a question of which locker/carrier (27 vs 30 splines) to install in order to be future proof for my goals/use!
Stay with a 27 spline and stop overthinking this. You're in analysis paralysis.
 
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0078UA000/?tag=wranglerorg-20
This is the cheapest kit I've seen and one I just installed. Unless you really have a specific need to run lockout hubs, i.e. vibration issues with larger tires and higher lift, it's not a cost effective modification. The only significant advantage to them is being able to unlock, if you break an axle. Installing the kit requires a press (for the studs) and means replacing rotors can get pricey (the center bore is enlarged for the hub body). Also, the front width changes +3/4" on each side.
I might be getting a false link? Or is this the correct one?

Screenshot 2021-04-17 at 22.12.51.png


I don't have any issues atm, and not planning to install them soon. Budget is limited, so more important things are first in line. Although, I would like to keep this option open for the future. Thanks for the tips and the insight! Much appreciated
 
Stay with a 27 spline and stop overthinking this.
haha okay!

May I ask a last question that I think I am missing the whole time?

Is a manual locking hub available for 27 spline outer shafts too?

This is why I was overthinking it. I thought it was available only for 30 spline outer shafts! :(

I feel stupid. But thats part of the process I guess.
 
All I know is the following: per Jerry B’s suggestion, I went with chromoly 27 spline fronts and 30 spline rears that will match newly acquired Eaton e-locker 4s for front and rear respectively. The TJ is currently in the shop, while I’m away in Costa Rica. Cannot wait to reunite with my TJ.
 
All I know is the following: per Jerry B’s suggestion, I went with chromoly 27 spline fronts and 30 spline rears that will match newly acquired Eaton e-locker 4s for front and rear respectively. The TJ is currently in the shop, while I’m away in Costa Rica. Cannot wait to reunite with my TJ.
Lucky you! I will do the same mods in some months. I hope.
 
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BIG thanks to all who provided expertise and input regarding the diff upgrades I recently completed - 4.56 gears, chromoly front axle shafts, 30 spline rear axle shafts and Eaton eLockers.


DB9F3872-DDF2-4076-ACBF-C839531F657D.jpeg
 
BIG thanks to all who provided expertise and input regarding the diff upgrades I recently completed - 4.56 gears, chromoly front axle shafts, 30 spline rear axle shafts and Eaton eLockers.
big difference huh, I'll never forget the feeling of getting into my Jeep after re-gearing from 3.07 to 4.56, as soon as I stepped on the gas my first thought was 'those f'ing idiots left it in 4-lo', only to look down & see it was in fact in 2-hi :LOL:, night and day difference; also turns your TJ into a terror off-road. Enjoy proper gearing and the increased strength of your axles overall, a very worthwhile investment
 
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Indeed, Westtown Willy; now, any suggestions on diff skid plates?
that's a whole different can of worms there. Like everything else TJ related it depends on how you intend to use the rig. If you're going to use your front diff as a battering ram, either intentionally or unintentionally, get something strong up there. If you're wheeling country dirt roads or mud holes stock will probably be fine. I've had the much maligned ARB covers on mine for 4 years & they survived some punishing abuse, the front one anyway, from rocks I didn't intend to hit but for one reason or another did :LOL:. Though, you may have clearance issues with that cover, it is giant. Only way to know for sure is to actually put one on then cycle your axle, otherwise it's just guessing. There are tons of other good options for stronger than stock covers that won't cause clearance issues on this site.
 
BIG thanks to all who provided expertise and input regarding the diff upgrades I recently completed - 4.56 gears, chromoly front axle shafts, 30 spline rear axle shafts and Eaton eLockers.
View attachment 249994
This video is the perfect representation of why we call the TC skid a 'shovel'. :ROFLMAO: I probably watched it a half dozen time just to watch the scoop.

Glad the upgrade went well and you're out putting the upgrade to work! Now you've got your next upgrade on the list (TT).
 
BIG thanks to all who provided expertise and input regarding the diff upgrades I recently completed - 4.56 gears, chromoly front axle shafts, 30 spline rear axle shafts and Eaton eLockers.
View attachment 249994

View attachment 249992
Did you see that gravel/sand spilling out of your shovel skid plate?! 🤣 Next mod, Tummy Tuck! You would'nt have even touched
 
@JMT, any suggestions for tummy tuck parts? I figured, if anyone would know it’’d be you.
There are several others who know more than I do, but if you want to go

As Flat as Possible
1.25" BL
1" MML
Savvy MUA for the 03-06 models or UCF Ultra High Clearance
Upper and Lower CA's (double adjustable are very helpful and worth it for all the adjustments you have to make)
Rear Currie Trackbar
JB SS SYE
New Rear DC Driveshaft

There are others who do lesser Tummy Tuck's, but I always figured on this mod, if I was going to do it, I was going to do all the work to get as much out of it as possible. There are less complications with a lesser tuck, so just beware. A full tuck as described above costs in excess of $2500 if you do all the work. The work is not hard, it's just tedious.
 
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Will the Rancho adjustable control arms from lift kit and Rancho traction bar work with above suggestion or will new ones be needed?