Gear setup help

Mavesar

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Supporting Member
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Nov 5, 2021
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Location
Ridgecrest, CA
Hi all new to the forum. I had my gears setup 12 years ago by a reputable company in WA, about a month ago a ring gear bolt got loose and was sheared off and eaten by the ring and pinion surprisingly only chipping a single tooth and making scary noises. tearing down I found that all the ring gear bolts were hand tight at this point. I had the cover off in January and inspected everything and it all looked good so not sure why it came apart other then no lock tight on bolts. Well lasted 12 years so not all bad. Anyway couldn't find anyone in town who could setup gears so am doing the fun myself. I have a couple patterns I was hoping someone who has done this before would give advice on.
Back Lash - .007
Pinion Shim - .026
Pinion Preload - 18
20211104_181200.jpg
20211104_181139.jpg

Looking at patterns online - since the drive is back on tooth and coast in forward. I added .003 to pinion and ended up with following pattern.
Back Lash - .008
Pinion Shim - .029
Pinion preload - 19
20211103_174943.jpg
20211103_174932.jpg

Any Input would be greatly appreciated!
 
Top photos look good from my eyes at this angle. The pattern is centered from heel-to-toe and root-to-crown; the marking compound shows good feathering towards the crown with just the slightest hint of hard-line towards the root (still not bad).

On the bottom set of photos, the pinion looks like it may be a tad too deep resulting in the hard/distinct line in the marking compound towards the root of the pattern:
pattern.JPG


Could be the angle of the photos making the differences appear more different than they are in real life. I'd take 0.003-0.005" out of the pinion shim to see how it looks. You may end up replacing it but that's kind of how it goes sometimes...
 
Top photos look good from my eyes at this angle. The pattern is centered from heel-to-toe and root-to-crown; the marking compound shows good feathering towards the crown with just the slightest hint of hard-line towards the root (still not bad).

On the bottom set of photos, the pinion looks like it may be a tad too deep resulting in the hard/distinct line in the marking compound towards the root of the pattern:
View attachment 288619

Could be the angle of the photos making the differences appear more different than they are in real life. I'd take 0.003-0.005" out of the pinion shim to see how it looks. You may end up replacing it but that's kind of how it goes sometimes...
That makes since. I did feel that was to deep but felt I was too far away from toe in first set. I did run the first set with .005 BL (I know it is too tight) trying to move it forward and it looked like below. Was first set of pictures good?
20211105_122931.jpg
20211105_122853.jpg
 
These photos were with 0.005” BL?
Yes I was just trying to move the drive side a bit to toe, before I changed the pinion shim. I didn't hit right at 0.006 so I just ran a pattern with the .005 if it is a good pattern then I can play with the shim pack more and with preload I am sure I could get it right at .006
 
These photos were with 0.005 BL and removing the .003 shim from pinion. giving .026 pinion shim like first set of photos in original post with 0.007 BL
To my eyes, these look like a good setup. You aren’t quite centered heel-to-toe between drive and coast, but that may be as good as it gets for this particular set (and will likely center more as you get your BL more center-spec).
 
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That was my problem. If you look at the first .007 BL set compared to the .005 BL, if I open backlash more I believe the drive pattern goes to heel and the coast goes even more toe? with .005 the drive side seems centered If I remove pinion shim it will go even farther toward the heel (If I am understanding the reading I have done correctly). Maybe add .001 to the pinion so I can center the drive side and get the BL in spec?
 
That was my problem. If you look at the first .007 BL set compared to the .005 BL, if I open backlash more I believe the drive pattern goes to heel and the coast goes even more toe? with .005 the drive side seems centered If I remove pinion shim it will go even farther toward the heel (If I am understanding the reading I have done correctly). Maybe add .001 to the pinion so I can center the drive side and get the BL in spec?
I worry less about heel-toe relation and more about root-crown relation. If you’re getting good feathering of the pattern at the root and at the crown and a nice swipe pattern overall, as long as the heel-toe relation is acceptable I call it good and then try to tweak with BL to get it as good as possible.
 
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I worry less about heel-toe relation and more about root-crown relation. If you’re getting good feathering of the pattern at the root and at the crown and a nice swipe pattern overall, as long as the heel-toe relation is acceptable I call it good and then try to tweak with BL to get it as good as possible.
I am going to keep the pinion where it is and go for final setup. do to the eaton e-locker I am outboarding the shims on carrier so only have a setup race on the pinion. will put in new race load the carrier bearing to get BL between 6-10 will post final pattern when I finish. Thank you for all your help on this.
 
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This is what I ended up with, after switching out setup race with install race and moving backlash around. As always any input is greatly appreciated! Hoping this is good enough to run.
BL - .007
Pinion - .027
Pinion Preload - 19" lbs
added .015 for preload on carrier bearings
Ring gear/Driver side = 137
Passenger side = 116
20211106_130425.jpg
20211106_130352.jpg
 
Full send - I've been doing gears for a long time and would be happy with that final setup...
 
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Thank you @pc1p for your help doing this on jack stands with the axle in the jeep was painful need to find jack stands long enough to put my long arm up so I can pull the axle if I ever need to do this again :(. I am working on finishing up wheel bearings and redoing my parking and disk brakes and should have it on the road tomorrow for brake in. :D
 
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