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My post near the end of one of those threads shows the connections that need to be cut and spliced. https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/is-it-possible-to-use-export-spec-taillights-in-us-tjs-without-having-to-run-new-wires.18771/post-1513247 The brake lights feed through the turn signal switch...

If there is a bad ground at the rear or corrosion in the bulb socket it could be causing enough voltage to leak back to the cluster via the tail light filament to make the cluster think the lights have been turned on, hence the dimming when braking. Fuse 4 being removed shouldn't stop the dome...

Yes. Fuse 10 is on the start/run output from the ignition switch.

Tap the red at pin 1. That keeps the starter circuit on fuse 22 as it is from the factory. The red/pink at pin 4 is from fuse 13 in the PDC, and is for the ignition switched feed to fuses 17 (multi-function switch and wiper) and 18 (accessory socket) behind the glove box.

That turn signal switch connector looks to have some heat damage, so if you start to get any issues with the turn signals or brake lamps in future the issue could be there. New connectors are available if you ever need one, part number 5183442AA.

Parts lists shows M6x1 x 25mm long in early years and M6x1 x 20 long in later years. Either would work.

What I was told as a kid and still do to this day is screw the plug in till it bites, and give it a quarter turn. Never had one come loose or be to tight to remove.

I've never seen a spec for the adjustment bolt torque in any FSM where the TJ uses an adjustment bolt. The FSMs state that the bolt should be tightened till the belt reaches the correct tension. I have a Krikit II belt tension gauge that I use to check my belt tension. here's one...

Fuse #1 is on the same power source as fuse #2 which is for the brake lamps. Do they work? If they do, with fuse #1 being good you should have power at the multifunction switch for the tail lights. If the brake lamps don't work I'll need to know what model year you have to be able to tell you...

Check fuse#1 behind the glove box for the tail/dash illumination.

Do your courtesy lamps work? They are on the same power as the cluster memory which is from the IOD fuse (#20, 10A) under the hood. I know the gauges in my 97 don't work if that fuse is removed.

That LED is in the same sort of position as the M&S immobiliser on my 97. However, I believe the M&S unit was only installed until SKIS came in. Since SKIS was Thatcham approved the M&S wasn't required. For future reference it might be worth checking out...

If you state the sort of things you are after people may be able to suggest suppliers. Rockauto is very good for general parts. Different brands and shipping options are available and 5% off codes are easy to find.

It's because the PCM doesn't require power from the IOD fuse to identify faults and tell the cluster to display the lamp. Where as the OBD ports require power from the IOD fuse for the readers to function.

The 05-06 pumps have a different pump that has the filter/regulator built in to the plastic moulding at the top of the assembly. It also runs at 10 psi higher pressure. I wouldn't know without seeing and/or trying it to see if your earlier pump would fit and seal in the later tank. I think...

If your IOD fuse is ok you need to check for power along the wire. The IOD fuse also supplies the power to the OBDII port.

Something clearly not right there. I've found this interchange part number list that might help. Hopefully people will chime in with what brands have worked for them. Part Interchanges Four Seasons 73239 Murray 73239 Factory Air 73239 Chrysler 5170954AA Cooling Depot 73239 Duralast BDAB1216...

I'd have thought replacements should be fit and forget. With no set up needed. I've certainly not read of any issues with replacements that I recall. I can't say I've paid much attention to them though as I have a 97 with the old cable operated heat door.

If the motor is somehow binding without even being fitted I would imagine it's due to low quality control and something binding in the gears. Can the gears be swapped with those from the old motor, or the control board be moved to the original motor housing?

The frame is rough but at the moment I'd say the body is worse. That's a hell of a lot of work to repair. The floor pan and torque box are corroded, the torque box looks like has a repair done at the center mount already. The inside of the wheel arch, and the part that the roll cage mounts to...