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When I purchased my '01 the inside of the Jeep smelled like mildew due to leaks in the soft top. Replacing the soft top resolved 95% of the leaks, but I continued to have a leak that would deposit water in the passenger and drivers side floor boards. During a really bad storm with heavy rains...

There is a needle bearing assembly that supports the steering shaft in the engine compartment along with a steering coupling assembly. Read thru this discussion where forum members have similar noises...

Try the Crown headlight switch for your '99 IF you cannot locate an OME Mopar part 56009869AB. https://www.quadratec.com/products/55211_0005.htm

This may not be a problem, but I would check the fuel pressure to ensure it is approximately 49 psi just to make sure.

Its the 3rd STICKY in the TJ Resources section. Then search for your year Parts List. On the '06 it is diagram 9-130 and on the '05 it is diagram 9-120. Jeep Wrangler TJ Factory Service Manuals (FSM) & Technical Documentation

(4) M10x1.5x28 The part can be researched in the Parts Catalog of the Resources section on this forum for the transmission mount figure 9-130. https://wranglertjforum.com/attachments/2006-tj-parts-list-pdf.14046/

Since purchasing the '01 I started a spare parts cabinet and with the availability of some OEM Mopar parts becoming scarce; I continue to purchase them when the OEM Mopar parts turn up. New OEM Mopar radiator (still in the box), alternator, fuel pump, CPS, CKPS, IAC, TPS, coolant temperature...

The DTC should clear within a short period of starting the engine once the sensor wire is reattached and signal restored. Did you just remove the sensing wire from the coolant sensor or did you remove the sensor from the thermostat housing ? Is there a chance you damaged the sensor, is the...

IF the radiator has a crack with coolant sizzling out; that is the first thing to take care of. You will need to replace the radiator before you overheat the engine. IF the A/C system pressure is too high; the High Pressure CutOut (system safety) should stop the compressor from causing damage...

Spending 15 years in the salt belt of the NE would most certainly require a thorough inspection of the inside of the frame rails. Since there is obvious rust between the frame rail and the skidplate; that would be the first place to inspect as others have responded. Do a thorough inspection of...

Those numbers cross over to the Tereflex extreme short shaft kit. https://teraflex.com/tj-np231-extreme-short-shaft-kit.html The seal you are looking for is: https://teraflex.com/tj-output-housing-seal-np231-extreme-short-shaft-kit.html

AC Delco still has a good reputation... I would go with that one.

Verify the oil pressure transducer oil pressure port does not have sludge in the orifice. If there is no sludge in the port and there is nothing wrong with the sensor wiring; then it is time to replace the oil pressure transducer near the oil filter.

Once you have removed as much of the RED CUSTARD as you can; replace the drain and filler plugs, fill the transfercase thru the vent line with a chemical cleaner (brake clean or similar) to remove the remaining custard residue from the insides. You may need to perform these steps a couple times...

The factory starters can last 15+ years. The Advance AP starters sound as though they are poor quality rebuilds. That is one of the reasons I don't use (V)Auto Zone and Advance AP; even though they offer lifetime warranties. How many times do you want to replace the component under warranty ?

With your modifications you determined you are not in need of the Currie Currectlync; I would stay with the ZJ steering.

Hope this assists you in troubleshooting the wiring circuit ...

There are letter/digits on right side of the output shaft housing that could be cross referenced to determine the manufacturer.

Check for TSB 08-15-99 concerning erratic and intermittent cluster operation. The replacement Cluster Connector Patch harness is PN 05016261AA. https://www.4wdmechanix.com/pdf-downloads/Jeep%20XJ%20Cherokee%20TSB%2008-15-99.pdf

What is probably keeping your radiator from cooling properly is the dirt buildup on the back side and inside of the condenser cooling fins . IF the radiator is still removed; I would rinse thru the condenser cooling fins from the back and then from the front to clear the buildup. Once the...