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I recently installed the OME 4” lift coil springs. They ended up giving me at least 5” of suspension lift over stock. I’d like to add a 1.25” body lift as well, but would that be a bit too high and unstable? Should I just stick with the 5” suspension lift and no body lift? The tires clear the...

They’re a great mechanical outlet. Lots of things to tinker with and upgrade. I like how they’re simple and rugged. Driving them is a blast as well, even on pavement.

That’s normal. It’s the drain from the air conditioning evaporator under the dash. Moisture in the air condenses on it and it drips out of that drain to the ground. But it shouldn’t have coolant coming out, just water. Any coolant pooling up in passenger side footwell?

Another thing I’ve considered an advantage to front axle shafts having CV joints is that the torque load is consistent from the inner shaft to the wheel in sharp turns, whereas with a u-joint, the torque load on the inner shafts has peaks and troughs to maintain the same even torque out at the...

Yes, and maybe tell them your symptoms and see if they can recheck it.

37psi is way too high and could be making the ride more jittery than it should be. Try maybe 20-25 psi. It would be good to know your toe-in because not having enough could severely affect the wandering.

Yes, ARB covers are pretty thick and are problematic with interference like that. Diff protectors like these are better because they sit lower and don’t interfere with anything: http://www.fourxdoctor.com/catalog/diffguard/diffguards.html

It helps to have socket extensions to get up to the upper shock pin bolts. As long as they aren’t seized, it’s a pretty easy job.

I would say go with painted (low maintenance) aluminum with rim lips that can take clamp-on weights for a dynamic balance (and make sure they are dynamically balanced). I went with the black Pro Comp style 69. Lightweight, simple, cheap, and has traditional rims that can mount clamp-on...

I’ve recently researched this as well. The strainer tube is a press-fit with no gasket, seal, or RTV used. It gets tapped in place using the circular ridge around the outside of the tube. I’ve read that it needs to be tapped in very carefully because it’s easy to bend or damage the tube. I’ll...

266k miles total. The only thing left of the drivetrain and sensors that’s still original is the engine long block. It still runs fine, but it is lower on power and fuel economy than it was in the past and it has a very mild cold knock.

Your TJ is after 2000? Then they still sell it from mopar apparently. Check your vin number on there to be sure. https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts/mopar-damper-crankshaft~33002920ab.html Looks like two different part numbers before and after 2/2000. The older one is discontinued.

I think it’s discontinued from Mopar, unfortunately. Actually, just the one for up to 2/11/2000 models. https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts/mopar-damper-crankshaft~33002920ab.html

You can shift out of it on the fly, it just doesn’t necessarily actually disengage the splines until the torque between the front and rear axles happens to equalize while driving. It relies on a spring to push the splines apart. Same with the ARB: it needs a chance for the torque difference...

One thing to note about aluminum vs steel construction is that the aluminum can be made thicker for the same weight. The thickness increase increases the strength exponentially. For example, the 3/8” UFC skid is much much stronger than stock because it is so much thicker, yet weights the same...

The bolt pattern to the transmission is the same, yes. But it’s taller than the nv231 and needs a bit more room in that regard. Also, it uses a different rear drive shaft connection and the shifting mechanism is reversed. So it does need a bit of tweaking beyond just bolting it in. Not a big...

I got the UCF aluminum one in the thicker 3/8” thickness. Weighs about the same as stock but much, much stronger. I had swapped in the bigger Rubicon transfer case so I went with the No Body Lift version.

Pro Comp 69 series: 16lbs. https://www.procompusa.com/wheels-product-details.aspx?pt=101508&lc=PXA&pqq=2336-1558&pqa=13671-8275 General Grabber ATX tires are pretty light for a 35 at 59lbs.

Incidentally, the transfer case works the same way. If you shift from 4x4 to 2x4, the splines don’t disengage until there’s no torque differential between the front and rear axles. There’s a spring that pushes the splines back into 2x4 once the torque between the front and rear axles gets low...

I can’t not drive mine. If I don’t get to drive it for more than a few days I get depressed.