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I tried that. Used cleaner and dielectric grease on it too.

Not sure. I assumed they did, but it wasn't driving when I started the build so I never checked.

I bought my '98 Sport as a salvage and rebuilt it. All lights seem to work fine. Tach, Fuel, and Volts all work as well. Speedo isn't working, but still tracks mileage. Oil Pressure and Temp are out as well. Just these 3 gauges are screwed up for some reason. On hot days (usually after...

Screw size #12-24. Should get maybe 3/4-7/8” to be safe.

I was driving today and for whatever reason, the Driver's side UCA Bracket on my Dana 35 came off. This has the track bar on it and I need to figure something out. I'm saving for a full Genright stretch, Dana 70's with links, coilovers, the works... BUT I need to figure this crap out in the meantime...

That's what I figured. I'm in LA. Called a few frame shops and they're all over the place even to measure it.

Bought my TJ for $1250 as a salvage. Had soft brakes and someone stopped in front of the driver and she swerved into a partition wall on the freeway. Caught the front drivers tire, ripped off the LCA bracket on the axle, f'd up the driver's fender, other than that, not bad. Completely rebuilt...

No service manual and I just ordered a new Chilton. Waiting for it to get here.

Tried that. No dice. FML...

So I took apart my dash, painted it, and put it all back together. Looks cherry. Only problem I have now is that my Speedo, oil pressure, and temp doesn't register. Tach, Fuel, and Amps all work. Backlight comes on. All startup lights work as well. Just these three frigging gauges don't do...

You should always have things re-tightened around 500 miles after install. I had a loose bolt or two that i thought would never move. Get it checked out. Ball joint shouldn’t be “loose”.

I did mine on my own. First things first, are the control arms adjustable? If so, screw them all the way in until they’re all exactly matching. Next, unscrew them X times until they’re to the length you need. Do this for all of them. Your upper CA’s are different than lower, and since you put...

Yeah, that was it. I backed it up onto some wheel ramps and left it for a day or so. Leak stopped.

I replaced RMS. The previous reply was correct. I backed it up onto wheel ramps and left it there for a day or so. Leak stopped. The RMS is pretty easy to replace. Just need to make sure you put RTV in the right places.

98 with AX15. Replaced oil pan, gasket, and RMS. Still have a leak. Replaced valve cover gasket. Slow drip still coming from bell housing. Some say it's just residual oil from RMS. Because of the angle of my trans (1" motor and body mount, SYE, 4" lift with correct DC shaft angle) it seems...

Setup: 4” short arm, 1” body, 1” motor lifts I’ve installed a new Tera SYE kit on my 98 and now I’m putting on the driveshafts. The rear is simple to figure out, but I’m completely lost with my front setup. Out of the TC, my front yoke is at 81* UP. I’ve got a DC shaft, but I’m staring at this...

I really appreciate everyone's help in this! Thank you

that photo is a huge help! thanks

1998 TJ Sport

So this is my first build, and I thought I had a pretty good system of tracking fasteners. As I'm putting everything back together, I realize my method was much more madness than I thought. I'm looking for the sizes for: ~ Rear bumper that bolts from underneath (upwards) into the frame. Not...