12V socket for GPS behind glove box

MountaineerTom

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I’ve seen it somewhere, I don’t know if it was here or not, but who has installed a 12v socket behind the glovebox? I’m assuming tapped into the power outlet wiring. I want to do the same thing and leave a power cord for my GPS installed all the time, ran up though the A pillar trim.

Just looking for tips on how they hooked the wiring up.
 
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I would get a different cord that is meant to be hard wired and just tap into the fuse box. This way if you want to use the GPS in a different vehicle you have the original cord.
 
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I would also recommend a fuse tap. Choose one of the fuse slots that is switched with the ignition so the charger doesn’t drain your battery. Look up how to hardwire a dash cam. What you’re trying to do is basically the same
 
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Yes, using an extra cord that will stay in the Jeep. I meant to put that in the original post.
 
These are used to add a separate fused circuit. Just plug it into an existing fuse slot in the fuse panel. I would certainly not use one for a high current device even though the new circuit has its own fuse as both circuits share the factory wiring up to the fuse box. A GPS will not use much current so you should be fine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DYQM6EO/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
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Thanks, I have some of those and currently using 2 of them for other things. I wasn’t wanting to clutter up the fuse box any more, so I was thinking of splicing into one of the existing sockets and putting a socket similar to this behind the glove box and then just plug the GPS into it. The only things I ever run off those sockets are GPS and phone chargers.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074CT5CSN/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
I used this

BCF06569-9E33-4125-98E2-9AB817D3B7B4.webp
 
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I’ve been thinking of adding an additional one in the future but I’ve not been sure which one to get.
 
I went ahead and bought the bigger one (the RFRM) because I thought I might eventually want more than 5 relays. Even if I don't use them all, I can still add as many circuits as I want.

I currently have a circuit for each of the following plugged into the Bussmann:
  1. Subwoofer amplifier
  2. Stereo power wire
  3. Left fog light
  4. Right fog light
  5. Left spot light
  6. Right spot light
I could have run the left/right bulbs together but I didn't know that at the time. The 130 watt bulbs only take about 8 amps each. The circuits are good for up to 30.

I had thought about all the stuff I might add in the future, and the list could get pretty long:
  • Front flood lights
  • Front scene lights
  • Left scene lights
  • Right scene lights
  • Rear scene lights
  • Dash camera
  • Air compressor
  • 2nd air compressor
  • E-locker (if my current ones ever blow up)
  • Dash camera
  • CB Radio
  • Ham Radio
  • Trailer brake controller
  • Heated seat driver's
  • Heated seat passenger's
  • Heated seat rear
  • Interior lighting circuit
  • Mico brake lock
And the list goes on and on. I'll probably never get to even half that, but I'd still be over 10 circuits eventually. So I went with the bigger RFRM, which holds up to 40 circuits and 10 relays. More than I'll ever need.

I like it because it's literally plug and play once it's set up. Want to add a circuit? Just run the wire, crimp on a terminal, click it in place, and slap in a fuse or a fuse and a relay
 
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In my last car i hardwired a little xm radio. It actually had a 5 vdc input. I popped open the cig lighter plug and desoldered the wires from the plug contacts at the board and tapped into the 12 vdc behind the cig lighter. If all you're running is the gps and a phone charger that circuit should handle it.

Just always be sure to use wire rated for the current the fuse can protect.
 
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In my last car i hardwired a little xm radio. It actually had a 5 vdc input. I popped open the cig lighter plug and desoldered the wires from the plug contacts at the board and tapped into the 12 vdc behind the cig lighter. If all you're running is the gps and a phone charger that circuit should handle it.

Just always be sure to use wire rated for the current the fuse can protect.

Any idea what gauge the factory power outlet wires are? I’d guess 16 maybe?
 
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Any idea what gauge the factory power outlet wires are? I’d guess 16 maybe?
I don't know in the tj. I haven't been inside the dash yet. The wires in my other car were probably 20. I spliced in bigger wires (i think 16) and assumed Toyota know what they were doing with the fuse and wire size. A phone charger and an xm receiver only draw a few amps. If your gps draws more than a couple amps you may want to add a fuse and bigger wires.
 
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Thanks @pagrey . Once I got home from work I checked my 2006 wiring diagram and seen it's a mix of 16 and 18 gauge. I'll look for an outlet that is at least 16 gauge.

Actually, both of my factory outlets are always hot now. When I put my heated seats in, I cut the switched one, spliced the outlet into the always hot outlet wiring, then put my heated seats on the wiring for the switched. I think if I go ahead and splice a hidden power outlet socket into the always hot wiring also I'll be ok. At the most a GPS and 2 phones charging would be running off of it.

Actually, that's what it does currently now that I think about it. I would just be plugging the GPS into a different outlet.

I do need to add another fuse block for accessories. I've looked at some of the Blue Sea Systems fuse blocks on Amazon. Some have a power wire from the battery then wiring to your accessories and some have the same but also connections for negative. I don't know which would be the best to get.

Out of these two, which would be the best to get? And Why?

12 circuit with cover and negative

12 circuit with cover



Screenshot (1).webp
 
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I think negative connection fuse blocks are for isolated systems or vehicles that don't have a chassis ground like fiberglass boats. You probably don't need that.

Personally I'd never pay for the privilege of more fuses. For the few circuits I have that require more current I use marine breakers that are connected at the power distribution block near the battery after the main fuse-able link. They are much easier to deal with, you just push a button when you make a mistake.

https://www.delcity.net/store/Manual-Reset-Circuit-Breakers/p_198672.h_201365

Any marine style fuse block will be fine if you go that route, just pick the one that has the circuits/current you need. There's nothing wrong with those little four or six circuit blocks with the covers.
 
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Thanks. I wondered why you couldn’t just ground somewhere else.

I’ve never seen those marine breakers before.