I would put the passenger side on if your not putting both on.Would it make better sense to put the passenger side tire back on (the side I am working on) and remove it that way. Maybe the camber wont be off?
I would put the passenger side on if your not putting both on.Would it make better sense to put the passenger side tire back on (the side I am working on) and remove it that way. Maybe the camber wont be off?
Not to be a downer, but doesn't the unit bearing have to come out to ( The 3 stripped bolts ) to get access to the U-joint?Jerry thank you for taking the time to write, you are clearly well respected on here so I appreciate it. The issue I am having is the 3 bolts the hold the knuckle are completely stripped. Another project for another day.
When I go to jack up the front to get the driver side tire back on the hub assembly is not perpendicular when I raise it high enough to put the wheel back on. I am jacking it up from the front diff, because if I use the axel shaft on the passengers side there is no coils or shocks to stop if from continuing to go up. Thus on the passenger side is being lifted.
I can jack it up enough from the pumpkin to get my drivers side wheel back on, BUT, the camber is off. Is this safe to lower this way? What are my options? Thank you.
Maybe camber is the wrong word. But the hub is at an angle when I begin to lift the axel up high enough to put the tire back on.None of this will affect the camber or caster.
Thank you!Use a pry bar to hold a couple of the studs. Go between the studs to the ground with the bar.
Unfortunately yes and I am not looking forward to figuring out how to remove thoseNot to be a downer, but doesn't the unit bearing have to come out to ( The 3 stripped bolts ) to get access to the U-joint?
If you plan to get to that U joint you're talking about, it's a project for today. Taking the 36mm nut off only separates the shaft from the unit bearing. You still have to remove the unit bearing to pull the shaft. Your unit bearing is attached to the knuckle.The issue I am having is the 3 bolts the hold the knuckle are completely stripped. Another project for another day.
Ill be watching this ASAP, thank you for posting it and helping out! Much appreciatedIf you plan to get to that U joint you're talking about, it's a project for today. Taking the 36mm nut off only separates the shaft from the unit bearing. You still have to remove the unit bearing to pull the shaft. Your unit bearing is attached to the knuckle.
Perfectly normal and not an issue.Maybe camber is the wrong word. But the hub is at an angle when I begin to lift the axel up high enough to put the tire back on.
I have removed the sway bar, sway bar disconnects, the shock, coil and brakes from the passenger side. When I go to jack up the front end to put the drivers side tire on the hub begins to angle.
Awesome thank you Jerry. I just did not want to damage the lugs or anything else. I appreciate itPerfectly normal and not an issue.
I do not have a locker no. I will try the crow bar method. I think that will be much easier than putting the brakes back on.And understand, that unless you have a locker, putting one wheel on the ground won't solve your problem. The easiest method (aside from an impact) is to have somebody step on the brakes while you loosen the nut. Be sure to do both sides before removing the brakes. With where you are with it right now you can put a large screwdriver or small crowbar between your u joint and that will keep it from spinning while you loosen the nut.
PB Blaster is among the last of any produce claiming to be a penetrant I'd ever use. Maybe that's why you said "Use lots of PB Blaster".Use lots of PB Blaster!
I use a plastic spray bottle from home depot and haven't had a problem with it eating the bottle....Jerry...........must that mixture of acetone and atf be put into a metal container? Will acetone eat plastic ??? Thanks