2000 TJ revival

Jeep9748

TJ Enthusiast
Original poster
Joined
Aug 26, 2016
Messages
513
Location
Ohio
So, I am in the process of reviving a '00 wrangler se. It has 75000 miles with a 4 cylinder and an auto. Mechanically it is sound. Where I am seeking advice is on the body and frame. My mother in law bought it for 7500, and it is for her 16 year old grand daughter. I am cleaning the frame and such, but just wondering if I should address the body floor pan, it was cut out and replaced. It appears to be solid, just wondering if anyone else has seen/done this? It will not be used for offroading or be getting modified with lift kits, big tires, etc. Anyones thoughts on this is appreciated.
 
So, I am in the process of reviving a '00 wrangler se. It has 75000 miles with a 4 cylinder and an auto. Mechanically it is sound. Where I am seeking advice is on the body and frame. My mother in law bought it for 7500, and it is for her 16 year old grand daughter. I am cleaning the frame and such, but just wondering if I should address the body floor pan, it was cut out and replaced. It appears to be solid, just wondering if anyone else has seen/done this? It will not be used for offroading or be getting modified with lift kits, big tires, etc. Anyones thoughts on this is appreciated.

Post some Pics as it will help with opinions.
 
The carpets, console, and seats come out pretty easy. Download a service manual to assist you. I googled the words "jeep service manual 2000 tj" and got lots of hits. With everything out, vacuum and clean everything. See what you have to work with. Wire wheel any rust or corrosion, clean, then spray a couple coats of red oxide primer on the damaged area. Top coat it with black or leave it alone if you wish. Check that all the drain plugs are there. Replacement plugs are available from many Jeep parts suppliers.
 
Definitely post some photos of the floor pan. If it was done nicely with good welds, I see no issue with it whatsoever.
 
Quick update...I managed to replace all four lower control arms. Front lower control arms are as always a HUGE PITA!!!....too be exact the front lower control arm front bolts. The ones I pulled out were not the cam bolts but standard bolts. I am still working on the frame rust. I sanding scraping and applying rest reformer on the frame. Yes I know that rust is horrific on jeep frames. so far I have only found two holes in the frame, the are on the very back where the stock bumper mounts. Other than that I finding this little TJ will do ok for a 16 year new driver. Its a 2.5 with an auto. I will post pics of jeep later.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chris
Sounds like it's coming along though, which is good!

Control arms are always a PITA... For me at least!
 
Ok....time to update. Tj is on the ground. Now to fix the steering. Steering wheel will not return to center after turn. I have tried a multitude of caster adjustments and nothing works. Steering stabilizer is new. Control arms are new. Ball joints have no vertical play. I removed tierods from each knuckle. They were a little stiff to move by hand but still moved. Power steering fluid is dirty but has great flow. I tried to adjust the pressure on the steering box but with no change. What are some thoughts? Ball joints bad? Steering gear bad? Any help is appreciated.
 
What is the current caster angle? Also, while caster plays the most important part in the steering wheel returning to center, toe-in also had a part in it as well.
 
Toe in is 61 front 61 1/8 back. Caster was set from 4 to 8 and still no luck. I am at stand still. I am leaning towards ball joints or gear box.
 
Damn, sounds like you've really got your bases covered. It would seem that the next logical things would be ball joints, followed by steering gear box.
 
You say the ball joints have no vertical play. If you take the weight off the tire and grub top and bottom will the tire move as in top come out and bottom go in?
 
No they will not. I removed tire and disconnected the tie rod ends, then tried to turn each knuckle by hand. It took both hands to make it move.
 
No they will not. I removed tire and disconnected the tie rod ends, then tried to turn each knuckle by hand. It took both hands to make it move.
Boy! That's not right. I assume you are saying that your trying to move the rotor around the ball joint - not rotating the rotor right?
If that is a correct assumption my guess is shot ball joints. While there should be no play they should allow free rotation as would happen turning the steering wheel.
 
So update....I replaced all ball joints, tie rod ends from pitman arm to wheels, control arms, front u joints, steering dampener, tires are balanced, driveway alignment and still the steering feels excentric and no steering wheel returning to center after turn. I am stumped to where to go next. Sitting in driveway I can turn the wheel, had wife drive and she says it feels like it is oversteering. I do have an alignment appointment tomorrow to get computer aligned. Anyone have any thoughts would be appreciated!!!!!
 
So I am researching that there can be time for new ball joints to break in? These aren't alloy or synergy, just standard run of the mill ball joints.