2001 TJ 2.5 with 180k: Another “engine ticking” post with a twist

KCsTJ said:
Could u post a vid and capture the tick noise?
It's weird that it comes and goes. Is it causing any misfires?
My 2.5L with 174k has lifter noise but it's consistent.
Surprised the new lifters and pushrods didn't make a difference.
Almost sounds like an intermittent oil flow problem to a lifter, just a guess.
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I posted the video previous. Here is the link:
 
Earl LaChance said:
2.5L has OHV... You can change the lifters without removing the head. I did it with my own greasy hands! See the diagram someone posted previously. Lots of different engines over the years so I get the confusion. 2001:
2.5L I-4 151 cu in - 1997-2002
* 120 hp @ 5,400 RPM * 140 ft/lbs @ 3,500 RPM * OHV * Sequential port fuel injection * 2 valves per cylinder * Compression ratio = 9.10:1 (01-02
Click to expand...

Guess that goes to show how little I know about the 4 cylinder engines (literally nothing at all) :)
 
Chris said:
Guess that goes to show how little I know about the 4 cylinder engines (literally nothing at all) :)
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Haha... happens to all of us. BTW it’s like driving a go-kart ... I don’t think I could barely tow a jet ski with this small engine :(
 
Just for fun and not to dispute anything said here OHV is used to describe all of our engines, the 4.0, 2.4 and 2.5 to distinguish them from older engines like the flathead Ford V8 where the valves are in the block or under the head. It doesn't really have anything to do with the location of the camshaft. It is just marketing nonsense these days. I think you have to go as far back as the Willys Go Devil to get something Jeep that isn't OHV.
 
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pagrey said:
Just for fun and not to dispute anything said here OHV is used to describe all of our engines, the 4.0, 2.4 and 2.5 to distinguish them from older engines like the flathead Ford V8 where the valves are in the block or under the head. It doesn't really have anything to do with the location of the camshaft. It is just marketing nonsense these days. I think you have to go as far back as the Willys Go Devil to get something Jeep that isn't OHV.
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You, sir, are incorrect. The 2.4 is an overhead cam (OHC) design, not overhead valve (OHV). Yes, an OHC motor does have the valves in the head but when the cam is also in the head, it's referred to as an overhead cam engine.
 
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pagrey said:
Just for fun and not to dispute anything said here OHV is used to describe all of our engines, the 4.0, 2.4 and 2.5 to distinguish them from older engines like the flathead Ford V8 where the valves are in the block or under the head. It doesn't really have anything to do with the location of the camshaft. It is just marketing nonsense these days. I think you have to go as far back as the Willys Go Devil to get something Jeep that isn't OHV.
Click to expand...

It has everything to do with camshaft location. Overhead valve (OHV) means the cam is below the valves, and uses pushrods and rockers to activate the valves. Overhead cam (OHC) literally means the cam is over top of the valves, acting more directly on them (though still through a lifter), eliminating the pushrods and rockers.

The 2.5 was originally built and designed by AMC, sharing many components and an extremely similar design with the 4.0. Externally, the 2.5 will look like a shorter (lengthwise) 4.0.

The 2.4 is an entirely different, DOHC (dual overhead cam), and significantly more modern engine design.

This is a silly argument. It's a fairly basic automotive subject and there is a ton of inaccurate information being posted. It's ok if you don't know this stuff, we all have to learn at sometime, but a little research might be in order before posting if you aren't certain about your information.
 
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g.hayduke said:
You, sir, are incorrect. The 2.4 is an overhead cam (OHC) design, not overhead valve (OHV). Yes, an OHC motor does have the valves in the head but when the cam is also in the head, it's referred to as an overhead cam engine.
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Wikipedia says "A variation over the OHV design is the overhead camshaft, or "OHC", engine"

Makes sense, I guess people get confused about what the words mean.
 
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danleym said:
This is a silly argument. It's a fairly basic automotive subject and there is a ton of inaccurate information being posted. It's ok if you don't know this stuff, we all have to learn at sometime, but a little research might be in order before posting if you aren't certain about your information.
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Mechanics I've worked with simply refer to the engines as pushrod and overhead cam. They lived through the introduction of these technologies so the terms have a bit more meaning to them I guess. Call it whatever you want, the history is interesting to me but I guess not to others.
 
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pagrey said:
Wikipedia says "A variation over the OHV design is the overhead camshaft, or "OHC", engine"

Makes sense, I guess people get confused about what the words mean.
Click to expand...

If we're going to quote Wikipedia, then the next line in the article you're quoting says that "to avoid confusion, OHC engines are not referred to as OHV."

And no one you've worked with lived through the introduction of these designs- both have been around since before 1910.

Call it a pushrod or OHV, same same. But not the same as an OHC.
 
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Just be glad you all have either a OHC or OHV and not a flathead.

1566225252196.png
 
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Earl LaChance said:
*Update: 10w30 and rislone are in the block... No changes so far. Here is the video
zero tick sound at startup then 30 seconds in ...tick starts. Then ticking goes away at full temp (200).

If it were the wrist pin or piston slap or something cam or exhaust manifold or metal related (that may go away once the metal heats up and expands), if it were one of those then the sound should start immediately at startup, which the sound is not present at startup for first 30 seconds...

As mentioned I personally changed the lifter and pushrods. Rocker arms are tight, too.
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did you ever find the isssue? I'm currently having the same issue in my 99 2.5. i suspected the issue was in the valve train or god forbid it was a rod knock, just wanted to see if i could pin point the issue before digging in there
 
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Earl LaChance said:
2.5L has OHV... You can change the lifters without removing the head. I did it with my own greasy hands! See the diagram someone posted previously. Lots of different engines over the years so I get the confusion. 2001:
2.5L I-4 151 cu in - 1997-2002
* 120 hp @ 5,400 RPM * 140 ft/lbs @ 3,500 RPM * OHV * Sequential port fuel injection * 2 valves per cylinder * Compression ratio = 9.10:1 (01-02
Click to expand...
Did you figure out the problem? Was it the timing chain? My is doing the same thing. It has got worse in the last year
 
Earl LaChance said:
2.5L has OHV... You can change the lifters without removing the head. I did it with my own greasy hands! See the diagram someone posted previously. Lots of different engines over the years so I get the confusion. 2001:
2.5L I-4 151 cu in - 1997-2002
* 120 hp @ 5,400 RPM * 140 ft/lbs @ 3,500 RPM * OHV * Sequential port fuel injection * 2 valves per cylinder * Compression ratio = 9.10:1 (01-02
Click to expand...
Did you figure out the problem? Was it the timing chain? My is doing the same thing. It has got worse in the last year
 
Earl LaChance said:
Hi all! I have read countless posts on the 2.5L engine tick. My scenario seems to be a bit different from the numerous threads...details:

Symptoms:
A. When cold (a relative term, as I am in Miami FL), on startup in the morning at idle, zero ticking, sounds perfect. Temp at 100,
B. Within 60 seconds, still at idle, prominent ticking sound starts, seems to be from top of the engine. Temp rising towards normal, 130 at this point maybe...
C. Drive to the gym. 10 minutes away. Idle in parking lot, temp 200, everything humming along as normal. Zero ticking, sounds perfect
D. Return to jeep 60 minutes later, prominent ticking sound immediately on start up, at idle.
E. Drive home 10 minutes, temp back to 200, no ticking, sounds perfect.

... embarrassing as I come out of the gym people ask about the Jeep and then the TICK TICK TICK starts. I hate it!

Completed
1. New lifters, pushrods installed 3 months ago. Rocker arms tight. No difference in ticking sound behavior after the install.
2. Checked exhaust manifold - no leaks
3. Two oil changes in 3 months: with 10w50 thick oil and with 15w30 - ticking behavior the same. Fram oil filters used.
4. New power steering pump
5. New alternator
6. Replaced idler and tensioner pulley
7. Replaced the spark plugs
8. Used the extra long screwdriver-as-stethoscope strategy near the spark plugs, top of valve cover, pulleys and components. You don’t need it to amplify and can not locate as the tick resonates everywhere.

Any thoughts welcome!

This is driving me crazy, mostly as I cannot diagnose what the heck it would be... if flat spots on the cam or some internal part, it should it be present immediately on startup in the morning...Why does it sound perfect the first 15 seconds of idle and perfect after 5+ minutes to normal temp driving? Yet ticking immediately returns after letting it sit and restarting the Jeep, after it cools down ...I would assume heat expansion solving whatever it is at first but that can’t be the case because it sounds perfect when cold first thing in the morning ... I’m baffled...

Thanks for any help or insights.
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I honestly suspect a cracked exhaust manifold or manifold related which I know from experience can be difficult to locate even with mirrors and inspection cams.
 
KillenTime said:
Did you figure out the problem? Was it the timing chain? My is doing the same thing. It has got worse in the last year
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Pick up a mechanics stethoscope at HF and listen to the timing cover the sounds are unmistakable. Or if it sounds like a diesel engine while at idle then it's time for a change.
 
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