Im in need of some help ! I have a 2004 4.0 with 87 k miles. Im tearing it down and im wondering if I can do a cam kit that works with a stock tune? Im 22 so I would like a little something but I dont have all the money in the world. Is there a cam that can give me satisfaction with a stock tune?
2004 4.0 cam upgrade?
- Thread starter DylhanJones42
- Start date
That's awfully low miles for a engine tear down if it doesn't need it. If it does, this is probably a drop in bucket of expenses. Be aware of the frequency of cam lobes getting wiped out on break-in these days.
You might look into Harland Sharp 1.7 non-adjustable roller rockers. These provide approximately .029" additional lift on the stock TJ 4.0L cam and pushrods, fit under the valve cover and should net somewhere in the 9-12hp range while also improving breathing above 3500 rpm. It's coming up soon-ish on Jezza's bolt-on dyno thread. It's only $100 or so cheaper than a cam and flat tappet lifters assuming you don't need pushrods as well. This will work fine on a stock tune.
The Comp Cams 163-201-5 is a newer option from Comp appropriate to the thrust plate TJ 4.0L with .450/.450 lift that would play nice. It's nitrided which helps with break-in, but I think the problem seems to stem from bad lifter quality more than the cams. I would expect this would work OK with a stock tune on an 04, though it might not be optimal without some timing or fuel adjustment. It is a no springs required option (NSR)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-163-201-5
https://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/Jeep4.0Camshafts.htm
You can't really go any more bottom end than the one Jeep stuck in here
. You'd be idling in negative RPM.Yes its got low miles and ive made the move to do a top end rebuild since im in there. Previous owner never took care of the jeep all together, when parts were added on they were very sketchy. There was no love nor any set of care to the jeep. It was just a vehicle to him.
Awesome thank you ill check it out, this is all new to me !
More of a topend, a little more peep in its step, trans is standard nv3550, all stock, as of gears i have 4.88 on 33". Once they wear out im going with 35". Going to stick with 35" tires with the dana 35.
It would cost about twice as much, but a Cleggs stage 1 stroker kit would make a much bigger difference than changing the cam when you step up to the next tire size. It'll greatly increase the area under the torque and power curves.
I understand your situation and am not trying to push something you can't afford. Just saying you might really want to consider it even with the stock cam.
I'd also consider if you know it hasn't gotten oil changes as it should, doing an engine oil flush additive, before a change. Then run maybe 500-1000 miles with clean oil to pick up anything the flush loosened.
There are a couple very well engineered product for this that I would trust to not cause more damage than good. Things can go wrong like having a sludge blob clog an oil passage and starve a bearing. You can inspect for varnish on the too of the valve train through the oil fil. Sludge you'd usually need to pull the valve cover and or pan to inspect.
These are a bit more expensive but are effective while being gentle on seals. Liquimoly Engine Flush is good for removing varnish. And is added just before an oil change and run on idle for a specified time. They also have a product for removing sludge. Don't use them together. If you believe you have both issues, I would do the sludge remover, drain oil and replace filter. Then I'd consider rotella T5 10W30 and new filter run for at least long enough to get the oil hot, but a week also wouldn't hurt just to let the higher calcium detergent content work on soot and carbon through the engine. Then do the Liquimoly Engine Flush to work on the varnish. Follow the instructions with care.
Some expense there, but much less than an engine or rebuild.
I understand your situation and am not trying to push something you can't afford. Just saying you might really want to consider it even with the stock cam.
I'd also consider if you know it hasn't gotten oil changes as it should, doing an engine oil flush additive, before a change. Then run maybe 500-1000 miles with clean oil to pick up anything the flush loosened.
There are a couple very well engineered product for this that I would trust to not cause more damage than good. Things can go wrong like having a sludge blob clog an oil passage and starve a bearing. You can inspect for varnish on the too of the valve train through the oil fil. Sludge you'd usually need to pull the valve cover and or pan to inspect.
These are a bit more expensive but are effective while being gentle on seals. Liquimoly Engine Flush is good for removing varnish. And is added just before an oil change and run on idle for a specified time. They also have a product for removing sludge. Don't use them together. If you believe you have both issues, I would do the sludge remover, drain oil and replace filter. Then I'd consider rotella T5 10W30 and new filter run for at least long enough to get the oil hot, but a week also wouldn't hurt just to let the higher calcium detergent content work on soot and carbon through the engine. Then do the Liquimoly Engine Flush to work on the varnish. Follow the instructions with care.
Some expense there, but much less than an engine or rebuild.
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