On another thread I mentioned having the hard starting problem and traced it to the fuel pump or pressure regulator. Purchased the Bosch unit and I was getting ready to drop the tank when following instructions, I got into the fuse box to pull the fuel pump fuse. But I noticed there is a fuse, number 23 and a relay, number 37 listed on the legend but there is no relay plugged in. Do we need both on the 2004 Wrangler? I know the previous owner had a LOJACK unit installed and maybe they pull that relay to enable them to disable the vehicle remotely??? Could someone please check their 2004 to see if relay 37 is there?
The diagram is very simple but so am I. Looked again and you are correct. It's the ABS relay that is not there. Some days I should not be taking up space. So back to dropping the tank and thanks for the quick replay.
The biggest help for me doing the tank is removing the inner fender liners before anything else. One side at a time jack up and remove the wheel and then remove the fender liner entirely. Sometimes I put the wheels right back on but having those liners out makes everything much easier and having the wheel off makes taking the liner out much easier.
After struggling with this today I can see the advantage to taking the wheels off and removing the inner fender liners. Got my fuel drained but have a stuck hose in the filler tube due to the I guess anti-theft plate down there. probably can retrieve that with the tank down. But a couple fuel line connections are perplexing me. I have never before seen these type. They have a metal band around the hose and are for the fuel feed and the return line. But no screw connectors or pressure release like on top of the engine. Otherwise I am about ready to drop the tank. Have a friend coming over to "noodle this with me".
Some of the connectors on an 04 wont come off. Be careful and there is a cheap Dorman kit that replaces all the clips you might break. The big valve near the leak detection pump should drop with the tank.
Well after looking at the lines for awhile I noticed there seemed to be room for the pressure relief tools you use to disconnect the lines. Can't recall the name of those at the moment. But got the three lines disconnected and lowered the tank only to find there were more lines clipped to the top of the tank and the large line on the passenger side that might be the leak detection pump. That was a real bear to unclip but finally got all of them disconnected. It was like a pit of snakes up there with all the lines.
There were marks on the original pump and arrows to show the correct orientation. The lock ring (plastic/nylon of course) was tight and I had to use a blunt screwdriver and hammer to get it loose. When taking the pump out the filter screen dropped off. It looks a bit laquered up due to the this Jeep sitting for years. 2004 with 8,000 miles. Put the new pump in and it seemed too tall until we realized you have to hold it down due to spring pressure I guess. Got the group of snakes hooked back up and the tank on before dark but need to get the filler tube back on today and check everything before trying to fire up and hope all works with no leaks.
One other thing I have a question about is the metal guard around the tank. I noticed you could remove a couple cap nuts and the guard might swing down. There are two hinges on the back. I took the entire assembly down but would it have been possible to swing the guard down and drop the tank?
There were marks on the original pump and arrows to show the correct orientation. The lock ring (plastic/nylon of course) was tight and I had to use a blunt screwdriver and hammer to get it loose. When taking the pump out the filter screen dropped off. It looks a bit laquered up due to the this Jeep sitting for years. 2004 with 8,000 miles. Put the new pump in and it seemed too tall until we realized you have to hold it down due to spring pressure I guess. Got the group of snakes hooked back up and the tank on before dark but need to get the filler tube back on today and check everything before trying to fire up and hope all works with no leaks.
One other thing I have a question about is the metal guard around the tank. I noticed you could remove a couple cap nuts and the guard might swing down. There are two hinges on the back. I took the entire assembly down but would it have been possible to swing the guard down and drop the tank?
I think pulling the entire skid/tank is the right way to do it, removing the skid can be a bit of work even with the thing out of the Jeep.
Update. Started the engine yesterday after priming the pump as indicated in the directions and it started right away. Let it run for a little bit and then shut down, came back after about two hours and it started right up. So very happy to have that happen. Can't drive it yet because I'm doing some body work but will in a couple days. For now I'm a happy four wheeler.
Submarine
Member
Damn I would have suggested putting in the Genright access door before reinstalling the tank. You can do it later if you have a body lift.
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