Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

2005 TJ Rubicon Stock Locker Issue

Cason3737

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Original poster
Joined
Jan 8, 2026
Messages
3
Location
Virginia
Hello all,
I am experiencing the frustrations of the stock lockers on the 2005 TJR. Jeep only has 88k miles and 2 owner.

Issues:
-Rear locker will not engage
-Locker (both front and rear) light continuously blinks

Front locker does engage and disengage properly.
Front locker pump does turn off when locked

Rear locker does not engage and the pump will run continuously. If I remove the air line from the diff housing and plug the line with my finger, the pump will turn off. This leads me to believe there are no air leaks and the pump functions properly. There are no air leaks around the fitting in the diff housing.

I have been told finding parts or help for these lockers is next to impossible, so any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Located in Northern Virginia, so if you're nearby and can provide a shop that can help, Id be open to that too.

Thanks in advance, Cason
 
On the rear, remove the diff cover and see if the air hose inside has come loose from the nipple or actuator. If not, the actuator is leaking and currently out of stock. Actuator:
1767885708982.png


If the front is locking and the light is still blinking, check the wiring to the sensor on the diff. Note that you can not replace the sensor without removing the diff case, so do not remove the sensor.
 
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On the rear, remove the diff cover and see if the air hose inside has come loose from the nipple or actuator. If not, the actuator is leaking and currently out of stock. Actuator:
View attachment 665331

If the front is locking and the light is still blinking, check the wiring to the sensor on the diff. Note that you can not replace the sensor without removing the diff case, so do not remove the sensor.

Sweet, this is a big help and a good starting point for sure. Do you know if these actuators are ever available, or am I SOL if its bad?
 
Hello all,
I am experiencing the frustrations of the stock lockers on the 2005 TJR. Jeep only has 88k miles and 2 owner.

Issues:
-Rear locker will not engage
-Locker (both front and rear) light continuously blinks

Front locker does engage and disengage properly.
Front locker pump does turn off when locked

Rear locker does not engage and the pump will run continuously. If I remove the air line from the diff housing and plug the line with my finger, the pump will turn off. This leads me to believe there are no air leaks and the pump functions properly. There are no air leaks around the fitting in the diff housing.

I have been told finding parts or help for these lockers is next to impossible, so any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Located in Northern Virginia, so if you're nearby and can provide a shop that can help, Id be open to that too.

Thanks in advance, Cason

And to follow up on the advice from JKP which is solid- I think the logic in the dash gauge is the that the rear locker has to lock first before the front locker will show locked. Not 100% sure of that because I do usually have the rear locked for a bit before locking the front. Somehow over the years I mangled the plug on the front locker. Wired in a new waterprooft connector last winter.

The other thing is that if the carrier was removed (ie for a regear), the sensor for the locker has to be held out with a little spacer (ie part of a toothpick) when replacing the carrier. You tie a string around it and then pull the spacer. It sits on the lip of the actuator. I don't see a specific reason to believe this is your issue, but while you have the cover off, it's worthwhile to look back in there with a boroscope or a dental mirror to make sure it's in the correct position.

You can see the position of the sensor clearly in this photo on the right side of the case above the pinion and behind the where the carrier bearing sites. It's the small cone shaped part coming in from the right side of the case. And BFG garage shows what you have to do to set it in his Rubicon Dana 44 gears video.

20250105_162622.jpg
 
Sweet, this is a big help and a good starting point for sure. Do you know if these actuators are ever available, or am I SOL if its bad?

You might try @David Kishpaugh at Jeep West in Oregon. The word on the street (trail?) for years was that he occasionally had used but functional Rubi locker parts that he would sometimes part with.

I was in fact able to source a functional used actuator from him in late summer of 2024, which has been working flawlessly since.
 
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I have the front and rear carriers available with working actuators but I’m an afraid shipping would be astronomical. I think I still have a spare actuator/bladder that was removed from a blown rear carrier. It worked flawlessly when removed. First you need to identify the root cause.

If memory serves me correctly, the front locker light should not blink even if the rear is. Often times my front will lock and light up steadily while the rear flashes until locked and steadily on. You can use a paper clip to jumper the connector on the pumpkin to verify if it is the sensor that has failed or improperly installed. If it still flashes while being shorted you have another problem.

To test the sensor in the diff (assuming your actuator/bladder) is working is to connect an ohm meter to the sensor pins and look for an open vs short. If I recall correctly the sensors are normally closed and have spring tension keeping them closed (hence the toothpick method required before installing the carrier). When the pump turns on the bladder expands locking the axle. This expansion allows the sensor to retract and close the circuit, thus causing the blinking light to have solid illumination.

I’ve been through the whole system multiple times and replaced both sensors. It’s a messy and stinky job for such a small part. The folks at Jeep and Dana were not thinking about sensor failure when they designed this system. Having to pull the whole carrier to replace just a sensor is completely ludicrous, but I have done it multiple times and it allows an opportunity to inspect the bearings and gears while it’s apart.

Best of luck!
 
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When I got my Rubi the PO had replaced Diff covers. The new diff cover wasn't giving the rear enough room to do what it needed to. Luckily before I spent a bunch of money a buddy spotted the problem, shaved down a litte of inside cover with a grinder and it has worked since
 
@Cason3737 Keep your old actuator when you eventually come up with a replacement. I've been looking for a dead one that I can reverse engineer a bit to see if I can feasibly make some aftermarket actuators that are rebuildable. I need an old one so I can start getting measurements off of it.
 
@Cason3737 Keep your old actuator when you eventually come up with a replacement. I've been looking for a dead one that I can reverse engineer a bit to see if I can feasibly make some aftermarket actuators that are rebuildable. I need an old one so I can start getting measurements off of it.

I have a good one that you can use for measurements if you don’t think it’ll ruin it and I can get back when you’re done.
 
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts