Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

2006 4.0 Piston Replacement

topfuel83

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A little background. I bought the 06 LJR a little over a year ago. I didn't have a lot of background on it, but it seemed to be in ok mechanical shape other than needing a refresh on almost 20 year old parts, as most of the Jeep looked like it still had factory parts on it. A few months into driving it I noticed a slight tick/knock on 1st startup up that would quickly go away. Fast forward to this summer and that noise got a lot worse, and though quieter once the engine was hot, was still audible. After a lot of research and watching videos from Dex Jeeps I concluded i must have some cracked piston skirts. I didn't believe I had broken a skirt yet, but wanted to be proactive to not get to that point and damage the block. I decided to do an in vehicle piston, ring, and rod bearing replacement.

I got it all apart on Saturday. The first thing I noticed was the carbon buildup was very bad in the intake manifold, and top of pistons down into the 1st ring. I also think the head gasket might not be factory, It was a MLS gasket, but it had blue sealing residue around the openings that I don't think is factory, but maybe I'm wrong. Once I got the pistons out I found the piston skirts intact with no visible cracks much to my surprise.

What I did find was evidence of very bad piston slap on all of the cylinders. Surprisingly, the compression (non-power) side of the pistons had more evidence of slap than the thrust side (camshaft side). The skirts had a lot of wear, and the cylinder walls are polished where the piston was rubbing. There are also some vertical scratches on the cylinder walls, but nothing that catches my fingernail. I also found sand like aluminum grit in the bottom of the oil pan. All the rod bearings look very good, and I had good oil pressure (verified with aftermarket gauge), so I think it was piston skirt material. I will be checking the lower main bearings however.

So not what I was expecting. My next step is I will be checking the cylinders very carefully with a bore gauge and see where I'm at. Hopefully they will all be in spec. I also decided I wasn't going to hone as there is no way to ensure honing grit doesn't get down into the main bearings. Didn't want to risk main bearing damage, and was going to go with a top moly ring which requires a smoother cylinder wall finish anyways. Still don't want to hone with the block in the Jeep, but not liking the polished areas from piston slap, and the factory cross hatching isn't as prominent as I was hoping it would be.

I think this engine had poor maintenance at some point and these issues are from past sludge and loss of proper cylinder wall oiling. My oil never stayed clean long, so I think there was more blowby than I thought despite a very good compression test on all cylinders.

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I did. Numbers were on the high side. After seeing the carbon buildup I think it was throwing the numbers giving a false high. Each cylinder was tested twice.

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Project is going slower than wanted, but I was able to borrow a mic and bore guage and got a bunch of measurements. Given the amount of piston skirt damage and granules of aluminum from the skirt in the bottom of the oil pan, I was very surprised to find the cylinders are actually in pretty good shape. Cylinder 2, and then 5 were the worst, with glazing on the minor thrust side from piston slap. Out of round is maybe a hair over a thousands at worst. Taper is almost negligible. Pretty much within factory spec, so I am going to run it. Pistons and head are heading to the machine shop tomorrow to get the rods pressed one and the head a once over.

I did find when taking my cylinder measurements that all my bores are at the smallest allowable factory limit, and the pistons are all "A", the smallest piston diameter. I think my piston to wall clearance will be ok, but on the tighter side.

I also found the crank rod journals to be on the tight side. They all had a standard bearing on top, and a 0.001 undersize bearing on the bottom. I might try two 0.001 bearings on both sides and see what the Plastiguage says.

This week will be cleaning up the block, rear main seal, and other minor stuff. Planning on getting pistons installed next weekend.
 
Got the new pistons, rings and rod bearings in. Everything went smooth, just time consuming making sure everything is clean and correct. Head is going back on today. Won't be able to fire it until later this week. The intake manifold was really dirty, so I had to pull the injectors to properly clean it. Two of them cracked. The plastic looks dry and brittle from being 20 years old. So new injectors and new fuel rail since that was very rusty. Fuel rail comes Tuesday.

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The head ended up being warped despite me carefully removing it in reverse torque sequence. So it got milled 0.01 inches, and a valve job all around as some of the exhaust valves weren't pulling full vacuum from the warped head.
 
I was thinking those compression numbers seemed a little on the high side and maybe the head had been shaved before, thus the MLS gasket. Good progress.
 
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Yesterday I started the engine for the 1st time. I'm happy to say all went well and so far so good! Once everything warmed up I took it out for some moderate loads on the engine and worked up to some heavy loads with higher RPM to help seat the rings. I think the rings have mostly found their place. Once I get some mileage on it and I know the rings are all the way set I'll do another compression test and report the results. I didn't end up honing the cylinders, but did everything else that I could to help the rings seat.
 
I used Sealed Power pistons, rings, and rod bearings. I also used Total Seals Quick Seat on the cylinder walls to help with seating the rings.

All my rod bearings had a standard size on top and a 0.001 undersize on the bottom.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts