31" tires (lift vs no lift)

A suspension lift can be done with taller springs and/or spacers. You would have to remove those and replace them with OEM springs, or H&R 1" lift springs. Along with springs, you'll have longer shocks to match, so you'll need OEM length shocks or a little longer if you keep some lift. You may have aftermarket adjustable track bars, in which case you can adjust them for the new height. Or the PO may have kept the OEM track bars. You'll probably need shorter sway bar links (or adjust them if possible). You might have a track bar relocation bracket on the rear axle which should come off. You might have an SYE and DC driveshaft in the rear, and possibly adjustable control arms.

Sorry, but there is a lot to look at before deciding how to modify it. Pictures of the suspension could help people here see what you've got to work with.
 
A suspension lift can be done with taller springs and/or spacers. You would have to remove those and replace them with OEM springs, or H&R 1" lift springs. Along with springs, you'll have longer shocks to match, so you'll need OEM length shocks or a little longer if you keep some lift. You may have aftermarket adjustable track bars, in which case you can adjust them for the new height. Or the PO may have kept the OEM track bars. You'll probably need shorter sway bar links (or adjust them if possible). You might have a track bar relocation bracket on the rear axle which should come off. You might have an SYE and DC driveshaft in the rear, and possibly adjustable control arms.

Sorry, but there is a lot to look at before deciding how to modify it. Pictures of the suspension could help people here see what you've got to work with.

Dang. I‘m just going to drive it down to the Jeep shop and have my guy take a look. Probably the best way to proceed. Thanks!
 
Thank you! Another question — with a 3” suspension lift on there right now, what’s the best way to achieve the look I want? I’m not entirely clear on suspension lift vs. body lift.

If it were me I'd simply add a 1.25" Savvy body lift and be done with it. That will fit 31s without issue and you won't have to mess with shocks, springs, etc. You'll spend $150 or so to do it and a body lift can be installed in less than an hour pretty easily. Not to mention it opens you up for things in the future such as a tummy tuck.
 
If it were me I'd simply add a 1.25" Savvy body lift and be done with it. That will fit 31s without issue and you won't have to mess with shocks, springs, etc. You'll spend $150 or so to do it and a body lift can be installed in less than an hour pretty easily. Not to mention it opens you up for things in the future such as a tummy tuck.

Hmm. I’d still have to remove the 3” suspension lift, way too high for my tastes 🤣
 
My father recently bought a bone stock TJ. We will be doing JKS 2” lift kit with the fox shocks. I can get the kit for a good price. Comes with everything we will be needing. Thinking about savvy 1.25” savvy body lift but I don’t know how 3.25” will look with 31’s.
 
My father recently bought a bone stock TJ. We will be doing JKS 2” lift kit with the fox shocks. I can get the kit for a good price. Comes with everything we will be needing. Thinking about savvy 1.25” savvy body lift but I don’t know how 3.25” will look with 31’s.

2.5" OME lift (closer to 2.75) + 1" body lift and 31s to give you an idea.

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When you say OME 2.5 I get confused. It seems to say 2". Does the 0.5" come from spacers?

From all I've seen, most seem to get more than 2" of lift from these springs and thus refer to the OME as a 2.5" (or 2 - 2.5") lift. I think I even read that in an ARB/OME parts catalog at one time. Weight of your TJ really determines how much lift you'll get.

For reference, I've got the 4.0 and have really tried to keep my Jeep light as I've built it. OEM front bumper, no winch, no back seat, soft top, etc. The spacers are 10mm, so ~.3".
 
From all I've seen, most seem to get more than 2" of lift from these springs and thus refer to the OME as a 2.5" (or 2 - 2.5") lift. I think I even read that in an ARB/OME parts catalog at one time. Weight of your TJ really determines how much lift you'll get.

For reference, I've got the 4.0 and have really tried to keep my Jeep light as I've built it. OEM front bumper, no winch, no back seat, soft top, etc. The spacers are 10mm, so ~.3".

Thanks Dave. This is what I've needed! I'm thinking I'll go for the full OME kit although I wish they did it in black instead of yellow.
How is it? I heard that it can ride better than stock, which is where I am right now.
 
Thanks Dave. This is what I've needed! I'm thinking I'll go for the full OME kit although I wish they did it in black instead of yellow.
How is it? I heard that it can ride better than stock, which is where I am right now.
Rancho has a 2.5" spring set which is black, but their shocks are white/red RS5000X or silver RS9000XL.

Although I ran that amount of lift with my 04 Rubicon for a long time and it did awesome offroad, my caster angles were always a bit low and axles were 0.75" offset. It was fine, but sensitive to bumps and crosswinds. Also the factory arms always were a half deg off thrust angle pushing left due to the factory welding the mounts slightly off I guess. Getting a good alignment measurement before starting can be really helpful.

I installed the Rancho 2.5 springs and shocks, fresh spring pads, JKS adjustable track bars and a full set of metalcloak adjustable control arms and really worked to dial in the alignment. Overkill by any reasonable measure, but it's now so much more stable and the ride is very good. A pair of adjustable lowers up front is sufficient to dial caster back to spec.
 
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Rancho has a 2.5" spring set which is black, but their shocks are white/red RS5000X or silver RS9000XL.

Although I ran that amount of lift with my 04 Rubicon for a long time and it did awesome offroad, my caster angles were always a bit low and axles were 0.75" offset. It was fine, but sensitive to bumps and crosswinds. Also the factory arms always were a half deg off thrust angle pushing left due to the factory welding the mounts slightly off I guess.

I installed the Rancho 2.5 springs and shocks, JKS adjustable track bars and a full set of metalcloak adjustable control arms and really worked to dial in the alignment. Overkill by any reasonable measure, but it's now so much more stable and he ride is very good.

Thanks GG. I was going to go for this kit https://www.4x4works.co.uk/product/...ift-kit-jeep-wrangler-tj-2-or-4-door-1997-07/

It comes with the Panhard Rod Extension Bracket Kit fitment to ensure correct rear axle tracking. Gearbox Packer Kit to prevent driveline vibration. 20mm Bump Stop Spacer Kit to prevent coil springs becoming solid on full compression.

I'm hoping they have done a good job so I can just buy it as an all in one.
 
done a good job so I can just buy it as an all in one.
Yes, that should do. You might still need a pair of adjustable lower or just longer control arms depending how caster goes on alignment. You can read the angle off the flat area on top the upper ball joint and be very close. Stock is 7deg and you don't want to be below 5deg. I was at 4.8 deg and steering wasn't returning to center well. I needed new control arms anyways as our dry Colorado climate and age had made the original control arm rubber bushings dry and cracked.

Example fixed longer arms
https://www.quadratec.com/p/jks-man...jeep-wangler-tj-cherokee-xj-grand-cherokee-zj
 
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Yes, that should do. You might still need a pair of adjustable lower or just longer control arms depending how caster goes on alignment. You can read the angle off the flat area on top the upper ball joint and be very close. Stock is 7deg and you don't want to be below 5deg. I was at 4.8 deg and steering wasn't returning to center well. I needed new control arms anyways as our dry Colorado climate and age had made the original control arm rubber bushings dry and cracked.

Example fixed longer arms
https://www.quadratec.com/p/jks-man...jeep-wangler-tj-cherokee-xj-grand-cherokee-zj
Thanks GG. Will defo bare this in mind.

I'm currently on the stock wheels 28.something" and am considering 31,32 or 33. A few have suggested that 33 maybe too big for my gearing at 3.73. any info on that?
 
IMO 3.73 would feel too tall with 32s or 33s, but it's personal. It'll certainly be able to turn them, but acceleration will likely be a bit sluggish. 31s would be acceptable. I'm not sure the area of England where you live, but being from Colorado and driving in Scotland a fair bit over the years, I would want to be on 4.56s on the M and A roads up there. If you came upon a caravan on 3.73s, you'd never get past. The TJ isn't particularly fast regardless.
 
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Thanks Dave. This is what I've needed! I'm thinking I'll go for the full OME kit although I wish they did it in black instead of yellow.
How is it? I heard that it can ride better than stock, which is where I am right now.

I've been very happy with my setup. That said, some here aren't fans of the OME shocks. Shock feedback and preferences are really personal and quite subjective... what may seem too firm or soft to one may be just what another is accustomed to and looking for.

Find a spring that'll produce the ride height you want and then find a shock that gives as close as possible to 50/50 travel up/down.

If you haven't read this yet, this is a great place to start to make sure you take all into consideration.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/a-beginners-guide-to-lifting-your-jeep-wrangler-tj.733/
 
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IMO 3.73 would feel too tall with 32s or 33s, but it's personal. It'll certainly be able to turn them, but acceleration will likely be a bit sluggish. 31s would be acceptable. I'm not sure the area of England where you live, but being from Colorado and driving in Scotland a fair bit over the years, I would want to be on 4.56s on the M and A roads up there. If you came upon a caravan, you'd never get past.

Ok, that figures. Maybe 31's will be the seet spot. The lift won't be bigger than 2" so should still look before than stock.