I have a 1998 Sport 4.0 auto that leaks from below the drivers side. Park it over night and there's puddle of red on the floor. New knee and need of new hip stops me from working on it myself. What would it cost for seals and a filter?
32RH transmission leaking below drivers side
- Thread starter Earl B
- Start date
I don't think it would cost you more than $200-$300 for new filters, seal, and labor.
This is a guess of course, but it's not that difficult of a job for most shops.
This is a guess of course, but it's not that difficult of a job for most shops.
that repair will require you (someone) to drop the pan, pull the filter, disconnect the linkage to the shifter and kickdown, drop the valve body, replace seals, reassemble and fill with oil. Not hard, just time consuming. Tim
Thanks. Could any transmission shop do it or would I need someone special? If I keep fluid in it could I hurt driving it like that until repair? Instead of replacing skid plate rusted nuts someone welded the skid plate to the frame. Nothing like used jeeps.
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Any Mechanic with a manual should be able to do it. I have had about 5 or 6 of these transmissions apart for valve body/band adjustment/seal replacements/accumulators...if you had help, you cold do it if you can get on a creeper. The hardest part of the job is draining the transmission and not drinking the fluid. Tim
TH99TJ
TJ Enthusiast
Thanks for everyone's help.
I'm healing up from knee surgery and unable to get under the jeep. I will drive it to the car wash to clean it with high pressure. Top off the fluid and take a better look at it. I don't want to pay a transmission shop if I can avoid it. Have to let my knee heal up first.
I'm healing up from knee surgery and unable to get under the jeep. I will drive it to the car wash to clean it with high pressure. Top off the fluid and take a better look at it. I don't want to pay a transmission shop if I can avoid it. Have to let my knee heal up first.
You really need to figure out where it's leaking from. There are three likely sources of an ATF leak... the 32RH's input shaft seal, the 32RH's output shaft seal, or from the speedometer gear housing's o-ring seal that seals it to the transfer case. Since it's coming from the driver's side, I'd start first with the o-ring that seals the speedometer gear housing to the transfer case.
Thanks
I'm healing up from knee surgery right now. When I drive it does not leak as far as I can tell. I park it and the next day there is half a quart under it. I would never have thought of the speedometer leaking. This forum is a wealth of information. It would be great if I could repair it myself because there is a long list of things that it needs. I don't think the other owner did more than put gas and oil in it. Most wear parts needs to be replaced. All in all the Jeep has good bones. Always have something to buy and something to do.
I'm healing up from knee surgery right now. When I drive it does not leak as far as I can tell. I park it and the next day there is half a quart under it. I would never have thought of the speedometer leaking. This forum is a wealth of information. It would be great if I could repair it myself because there is a long list of things that it needs. I don't think the other owner did more than put gas and oil in it. Most wear parts needs to be replaced. All in all the Jeep has good bones. Always have something to buy and something to do.
HI Jerry. So I was having same leaking issue. I got under the jeep to look at the o-ring for the speedo and mine is leaking from around the shifting rod right in front of the speedometer gear housing. Am I able to fix that myself or should I take it to a shop? Its a 02 with the 32RH. Thank you in advance.
The shift selector can leak an amazing amount, and is on the driver's side. I replaced mine w/o draining the trans or dropping the valve body, but it wasn't the easiest job I've ever done.
If you can't get under it at all it's going to be a challenge for you, but my standard recommendation is to clean & dry the entire thing. Then stuff paper towels in & around all the things that could be leaking (bell housing, selector shaft, cooler lines, dipstick, NSS, TCC, pressure test ports, etc). Come back in a few hours and see which ones are stained red, and you'll have a good idea where that leak is coming from.
If you can't get under it at all it's going to be a challenge for you, but my standard recommendation is to clean & dry the entire thing. Then stuff paper towels in & around all the things that could be leaking (bell housing, selector shaft, cooler lines, dipstick, NSS, TCC, pressure test ports, etc). Come back in a few hours and see which ones are stained red, and you'll have a good idea where that leak is coming from.
TH99TJ
TJ Enthusiast
I will have to agree, the selector shaft seal is not overly complicated to replace, it is just in a not so accessible spot pointing up at the body allow jack squat for room to work or see what you are doing. I had a far harder time removing my seal than replacing it with the new one. The metal on my old seal was almost touching the shaft unlike the replacement seal that had more rubber exposed. I did it on my lift and it still was not easy peasy. Make sure you clean the snot out of the area or you will get crap inside the trans. I ended up using a small carbide bur to cut a hole in the seal so I could stick a tool in it and pry it out. They do make a seal extractor but it had tyo be ordered and was seriously not free! I fabricated a seal driver for my slide hammer so install was less than a minute, then reassemble all the linkage and crap you might remove to gain work space. Now, several months later, mine in is leaking between the trans and t-case. I need to pull the T-case to fix that. Maybe today LOL. A side note, after reading some of the older posts I wanted to maybe clarify some locations. Starting in the back is the rear output shaft seal,(lip seal) then above and in front of that is the speedometer sending unit(O ring). move toward the front on the T-case on the drivers side is the transfer case selector shaft ( usually an o ring). Then there is the front out put seal (Lip seal). Move up to almost the front of the transmission and that is where you find the transmission selector shaft(another lip seal) I believe the book says to remove the selector shaft to gain access to remove the seal, that' a lot of work IMO.
Ok thank you! I did clean and stuff paper towels around it that’s how I know it’s the selector shaft. So I bought the part already how did you get the seal out without taking everything apart?
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