4.0 Engine Overheating

williambmac said:
the housing you bought, is it a mopar or aftermarket housing?

I've had coolant leaks on two jeeps when using the aftermarket thermostat housings.
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Aftermarket suck
bobthetj03 said:
Glad you got it sorted out buddy!
Weired how that housing wasn't sealing.
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yeah, frustrating. 5 minutes after The Right Stuff and everything was solved. I’ll never leave home without it.
 
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Rob L. said:
I've never seen this done before. How exactly is it used for the fan clutch nut?
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Place the air hammer, using a flat chisel, straight down on the nut (picking the side you want the nut to spin in) and hit one or two small bursts of the trigger. It works absolutely every time!

That said, two things not to do are using a cutting chisel, or keeping your finger on the trigger. FWIW, I've used multiple methods when removing fan clutch nuts and nothing is simpler. As long as you keep the trigger bursts short, there is no harm to the water pump or other parts. The worst that happens is chisel marking on the nut.
 
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Irun said:
Place the air hammer, using a flat chisel, straight down on the nut (picking the side you want the nut to spin in) and hit one or two small bursts of the trigger. It works absolutely every time!

That said, two things not to do are using a cutting chisel, or keeping your finger on the trigger. FWIW, I've used multiple methods when removing fan clutch nuts and nothing is simpler. As long as you keep the trigger bursts short, there is no harm to the water pump or other parts. The worst that happens is chisel marking on the nut.
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I use the "manual" hammer & chisel method for taking off the fuel pump lock nut but never thought about it for the clutch fan.

Good to know!
 
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Rob L. said:
I use the "manual" hammer & chisel method for taking off the fuel pump lock nut but never thought about it for the clutch fan.

Good to know!
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I just had a buddy come over, who spent 45+ minutes trying to get his fan clutch out. He used the hammer trick (on an adjustable wrench), pry bars, and even a "special" tool. All he got for his efforts was frustrated and cut knuckles. I pulled out the air hammer and hit the nut once, then spun it off for him. His exact word were...SOB! 🤬
 
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Irun said:
I just had a buddy come over, who spent 45+ minutes trying to get his fan clutch out. He used the hammer trick (on an adjustable wrench), pry bars, and even a "special" tool. All he got for his efforts was frustrated and cut knuckles. I pulled out the air hammer and hit the nut once, then spun it off for him. His exact word were...SOB! 🤬
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I don't even know if I have my air hammer anymore as I have pretty much gotten away from all air tools and gone to battery powered. I might give my Makita hammer a go and see how that does next time
 
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Just for awareness - if you buy a thermostat housing from advanced auto, make sure you sand the mating surface FIRST or check for flatness. I would love to take my daughter's 2003 TJ apart and show you all but it ain't happenin: after the second gasket which was a fel-pro, I put it on a marble surface and it was about .010" off in the middle between the bolt mounting holes.

So just check it before you go the whole 9 yards - I sanded it down with 80 grit ON A FLAT SURFACE and used ZERO gasket sealer and it's perfect (as I would expect).

This is the one: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-oe-solutions-engine-coolant-thermostat-housing-902-306/10055005-P?searchTerm=thermostat housings
 
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JKP said:
With the cap off, you can see the flow in the radiator if the pump is working. Also, does the heater work? If there is no flow, the heater will not be hot.

If the speed and sound of the fan never changed, your clutch is shot.
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Slight hiljack…Trying to sanity check my waterpump before I replace it. How much “flow” should I see?
 
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