So, I’m assuming that other ppl have had this problem or just didn’t notice. I’m assembling a 4.6 stroker. When I dry fit the oil pan it does not sit flush on the block. It rocks back and forth on the girder that goes from bearing cap to bearing cap. The girder has to be spaced so that the rods don’t hit it but, when spaced ever so slightly w/ washers, it sets to low to allow the oil pan to be secured properly. I could throw the gasket in it and wrench it tight. It might seal, it might not. I’m very particular when it comes to mechanics and this is an issue for me. Anybody else have this problem and if so, what to do to correct it? Also, is the girder actually needed? I’m guessing it’s there for a reason. Any ideas/thoughts??
I used a hammer and drift to clearance the front of the pan where the girdle hits.hasn't leaked at all.
Some gear marking compound or paint of some kind will let you know when you've done enough.
I wouldn't just tighten it down,you'll distort the mounting flange.
Some gear marking compound or paint of some kind will let you know when you've done enough.
I wouldn't just tighten it down,you'll distort the mounting flange.
That was my thought on it too. I may cherry it w/ the torch to move it a bit easier. Thx!
I had to cut the bottom out of mine. It was hitting a lot. I am also running main studs, so that may be part of the issue.
What happened to your stroker?are you going to rebuild it?
Looks like you pushed the girdle out quite a bit.with a factory pan you only need to clearance the front by the thickness of the washers. Girdle to rod clearance doesn't need to be very much
It had an issue with the #3 rod. The bearing spun after about 100 miles. It is at the machine shop, but I have been waiting on a new set of rods and a crankshaft. The crank actually showed up this morning.
My girdle was about 0.080" from the rod end when down. My machinist told me not to go much tighter than that. I didn't grind the girdle though like most folks do. That may have something to do with it.
I was talking about doing that w/ a co-worker. I’m not a fan of just denting it enough. Also, I have 2 pans to work w/ and I’m pretty good w/ a welder. I think I could cut and weld up something more pleasing to me than just hammering the sh#% out of it. Even if I just cut the bolt flange off and build something like you’d see for a race engine would be better to me. If I go that direction then, I could even make it hold an extra quart. Just a thought. I know once the engine is in nobody will see it but, I’ll know. A question a bit off subject but, in the same general area…are you using a standard or high volume oil pump? Reason I’m asking is because I had this engine running already but, a few things came up so I pulled it back out. The one thing that I noticed was there was a LOT of oil being pushed up into the valve cover which in turn pushed out the breathers. I put the standard oil pump back in but, haven’t fired it yet. I double checked to make sure the cam bearing oil holes are clocked properly and they are. So, that wouldn’t have created the oil issue. I’m guessing it was because of the oil pump.
did you remove the valve cover internal baffle?
Did you put the correct valve cover elbows in the correct places so you don't suck a ton of oil down the intake?
High volume oil pumps should run at the same pressure as standard pumps. ie they will just bypass internally at a higher volume than a stock pump.it isn't your problem.
Did the motor run at really high oil pressure? Like 80 psi?
You should have done leakdown and compression tests on your motor before pulling it out.
you are confused about the slight amount of clearancing you need. I had no need for a torch or hammering the shit out of the front of my pan.
If i remember right,russ advised at least .050",but mine isn't exactly high performance like your boosted setups.I don't remember what i wound up at.
Do you have a link to your stroker build? Man that would be awesome with your turbo kit!
Parting out this engine. Scat crank. Keith black pistons. Stage 1 cam. Harland sharp adj. rollers. Edelbrock aluminum head. B&m throttle body. Pace setter header. Reasonable offers only please. Head is brand new. Other parts have less than 50 miles on them.
I’ve shattered the piston in 3 stock engines. I pay $500 for them. I can just keep shattering pistons in stock engines and have the same amount of fun as I would w/ this high dollar pain in the ass. So many little bugs that I’m over it. Stroking a 350 doesn’t have this many things to work around. The oil pan issue is the icing for me. The last f%#*ing thing and it needs to be “massaged” w/ a hammer to fit. I’m over it. Like I said, shattering pistons in stock engines will be just as fun as an engine I have no idea if it’ll hold up to my abuse and I’m 6k into it. I’ll re-coup some of my loss and move on. BTW-pistons are .20 over if any1 has any interest.
Fair. I'm contemplating a stroker build myself, so hearing about some of the difficulties is good.
Another issue I have is the valve cover. Because of adjustable rollers you have to use a spacer w/ the stock cover. Or, buy one of those cheap aluminum covers w/ a push in oil fill plug. You can cut the baffles out of the stock cover but, you suck oil out the breathers. I found one person that makes a tall cover to correct this issue but, he wants $600 for it. And, it has a screw in oil fill cap.
Adjustable rockers don't last long either.not worth the squeeze to me.
Are you saying you cut out the baffles and were using oil?
You are leaving out a lot of info
I have to argue for strokers whenever somebody builds one and doesn't get it right.then blames the "stroker". Different crank, rods, and pistons usually have nothing to do with the various issues people have building up a 4.0l.
Just slapping one together without knowing how to do it isn't the motors fault. There is nothing inherently bad about amc strokers. Or even difficult to do.
Are you saying you cut out the baffles and were using oil?
You are leaving out a lot of info
I have to argue for strokers whenever somebody builds one and doesn't get it right.then blames the "stroker". Different crank, rods, and pistons usually have nothing to do with the various issues people have building up a 4.0l.
Just slapping one together without knowing how to do it isn't the motors fault. There is nothing inherently bad about amc strokers. Or even difficult to do.
Do your research first and make sure the machinework and assembly is correct. Most important part is quality cam and lifters on an amc 6. And check everything!including whether the block is warped and cam is actually straight.Don't assume new parts are good,and make sure you put the right parts together in the first place
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