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4WD shift linkage doesn't go into 4-low easily

sfexeter

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So, after removing a 1” t-case drop I couldn’t shift into 4 low. I used the adjustment bolt 13mm on the linkage arm and now seems to travel further and engage. Only problem is there is significant contact between a pivot point on the linkage and one of the bolts/mounting brackets. It takes quite a bit of effort to get it into 4lo and out of because of this. I snapped a picture and hoping someone could let me know what they think (it’s fine, adjust x, you’re a moron, etc.)

58D65467-9B59-43FA-B01C-F84AB9777D66.jpeg


1F8FEDAF-8422-4C29-BA4F-2F989EDCE3A2.jpeg
 

Krusty_tub

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Ct
Remove that drop plate and put the rod back into its stock position to fix the rubbing then make adjustments.
 

Obi-Wan

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Apr 6, 2022
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Tatooine, Outer Rim
Is that plate an aftermarket drop plate????
Yes.

Remove the plate and you will see where the torque shaft (#11) fits into the torque shaft bracket (#8)

There is a small bushing plate that the torque shaft runs through that is attached to the drop plate. It will need to be bolted back onto the torque shaft bracket

This will solve your alignment issues.

TC.JPG
 
Last edited:
OP
sfexeter

sfexeter

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Yes.

Remove the plate and you will see where the torque shaft (#11) fits into the torque shaft bracket (#8)

There is a small bushing plate that the torque shaft runs through that is attached to the drop plate. It will need to be bolted back onto the torque shaft bracket

This will solve your alignment issues.

View attachment 326512
Thank you. After spending a lot of time scrolling between my photo and the diagram you provided, I think I understand. Will there be play in the torque shaft to get it seated in the proper location, or will I need to disconnect anything else? Its a tight area, so I'm thinking Ill have to drop the skid.
 

Obi-Wan

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so I'm thinking Ill have to drop the skid.
Dropping the skid would provide the most room to work effectively. Just make sure you have the transmission supported BEFORE you remove the skid plate as it holds the transmission and transfer case in place.

Safety first.
 
OP
sfexeter

sfexeter

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Well.... thought I was good while it was parked and shifting properly. Took it for a test drive and it went from 2h-4h-n-4l. Fine. Went back down to 4h, but 2h didn’t want to engage. It’s like it’s stuck in 4h.... all of a sudden a big CLUNK like I hit a pothole and I’m back in 2h. Tried again and same result...stuck in 4h. Was able to reversed for a bit and get it into 2h again without the clunk. Tried adjusting the linkage again with the 13mm bolt, but no change...

Any ideas out there????
 

AndyG

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I’m not being critical- please don’t take this that way- but these linkages can be maintained- dirt bike chain wax, silicone, wd 40, dry teflon- something.

I realize all has to clear , etc. but something with this many pivot points needs lubrication occasionally-

I have a cable shifter in one and a well maintained linkage in another- the cable is unbeatable, but a well oiled stock linkage might surprise some folks at well it works too.
 

AndyG

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Well.... thought I was good while it was parked and shifting properly. Took it for a test drive and it went from 2h-4h-n-4l. Fine. Went back down to 4h, but 2h didn’t want to engage. It’s like it’s stuck in 4h.... all of a sudden a big CLUNK like I hit a pothole and I’m back in 2h. Tried again and same result...stuck in 4h. Was able to reversed for a bit and get it into 2h again without the clunk. Tried adjusting the linkage again with the 13mm bolt, but no change...

Any ideas out there????
Some of that sounds like typical transfer case fussiness- is it a manual or auto?
 

FJQue

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Joined
Mar 15, 2020
Messages
176
Location
Kansas City
I’m not being critical- please don’t take this that way- but these linkages can be maintained- dirt bike chain wax, silicone, wd 40, dry teflon- something.

I realize all has to clear , etc. but something with this many pivot points needs lubrication occasionally-

I have a cable shifter in one and a well maintained linkage in another- the cable is unbeatable, but a well oiled stock linkage might surprise some folks at well it works too.
Interesting take, think I'll lube mine tomorrow on that note since it's actually still working properly. Good reminder.

OP, I had a linkage wrangl'd up pretty good on a red TJ I bought stateside with 179k miles that was a rental Jeep in Hawaii at the beginning of it's life. On that one, I just bought a Savvy cable, pretty much had to. That said, I just rec'd an order from Savvy that was on backorder. The general take is if you commit, the order will come. Mine took 2, maybe 3 weeks..
 
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OP
sfexeter

sfexeter

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Mar 26, 2021
Messages
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Location
SF Bay Area
I’m not being critical- please don’t take this that way- but these linkages can be maintained- dirt bike chain wax, silicone, wd 40, dry teflon- something.

I realize all has to clear , etc. but something with this many pivot points needs lubrication occasionally-

I have a cable shifter in one and a well maintained linkage in another- the cable is unbeatable, but a well oiled stock linkage might surprise some folks at well it works too.
I’m open to criticism.... I’m pretty critical of my own abilities! Lubing the pivot points is the first thing I did when I started messing with it. I’ve tried adjusting that but in 2h and in 4l. No difference. It just doesn’t want to go back into 2h properly. I didn’t have this problem before I did away with the races drop, so I feel like it has to be something I’m missing (or running it with a drop for many years threw the thing off🤷‍♂️).

On a side note I’ve tried calling Savvy multiple times about what kind of wait there is for their cable shifter and can’t get ahold of anyone. Also emailed and no response 🤦‍♂️

Hoping someone has conquered this problem and can tell me what I’m missing here.
 

AndyG

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I’m open to criticism.... I’m pretty critical of my own abilities! Lubing the pivot points is the first thing I did when I started messing with it. I’ve tried adjusting that but in 2h and in 4l. No difference. It just doesn’t want to go back into 2h properly. I didn’t have this problem before I did away with the races drop, so I feel like it has to be something I’m missing (or running it with a drop for many years threw the thing off🤷‍♂️).

On a side note I’ve tried calling Savvy multiple times about what kind of wait there is for their cable shifter and can’t get ahold of anyone. Also emailed and no response 🤦‍♂️

Hoping someone has conquered this problem and can tell me what I’m missing here.
They are a pain when the jeep is modified for sure- normally it cocks them and they fight themselves-

If you chock the wheels, put the tranny in neutral, disconnect it at the transfer case - you can rotate the TC actuator by hand to each mode- then, and it may take a hand in the tub, you
can move the linkage along with it and see what the linkage is doing aside from the transfer case.
 
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Alatex

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Apr 4, 2022
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I’m open to criticism.... I’m pretty critical of my own abilities! Lubing the pivot points is the first thing I did when I started messing with it. I’ve tried adjusting that but in 2h and in 4l. No difference. It just doesn’t want to go back into 2h properly. I didn’t have this problem before I did away with the races drop, so I feel like it has to be something I’m missing (or running it with a drop for many years threw the thing off🤷‍♂️).

On a side note I’ve tried calling Savvy multiple times about what kind of wait there is for their cable shifter and can’t get ahold of anyone. Also emailed and no response 🤦‍♂️

Hoping someone has conquered this problem and can tell me what I’m missing here.
It’s literally in stock on Amazon and is sold and shipped by Savvy