5.3 Vortec engine swap and other upgrades
- Thread starter Jeeper25
- Start date
Longhorn84
TJ Enthusiast
So it's been a while... I stripped the spider gears in the 35... replaced those and then blew the rearend out again a few weeks later. I dont actually know what I broke... I didnt bother pulling the diff cover to find out, but it felt like I snapped the pinion because it just spins with no grinding noises.
I decided anyone who says the dana 35 works fine with a v8 is a liar! Or doesnt run above stock tires... so I decided to pull the trigger on the East Coast Gear Supply 8.8 conversion. It took about a month and a half but after the much anticipated wait, it finally came in and it's great to be driving this beast again!
I had them redue the brakes. Add 4.10 gears with a rebuilt LSD as well as the parking break cables. All in all, it should be able to comfortable hold 37 inch tires and is rated for over 500 HP. This will allow for future upgrades and plenty of security for my not so light foot. It is interesting having the extra traction with the LSD. I've definitely done a few one tire wheelies while giving it alittle to much gas in a turn. I also put on new metal rear fenders while I was waiting for the rearend to be delivered.
I decided anyone who says the dana 35 works fine with a v8 is a liar! Or doesnt run above stock tires... so I decided to pull the trigger on the East Coast Gear Supply 8.8 conversion. It took about a month and a half but after the much anticipated wait, it finally came in and it's great to be driving this beast again!
I had them redue the brakes. Add 4.10 gears with a rebuilt LSD as well as the parking break cables. All in all, it should be able to comfortable hold 37 inch tires and is rated for over 500 HP. This will allow for future upgrades and plenty of security for my not so light foot. It is interesting having the extra traction with the LSD. I've definitely done a few one tire wheelies while giving it alittle to much gas in a turn. I also put on new metal rear fenders while I was waiting for the rearend to be delivered.
Has anyone had ticking coming from near their frontend? This wasnt a thing until I replaced the u-joints in the front axle shaft. I didnt do anything with the ball joint that's in the double cardon and I'm thinking it's a drive shaft issue? Later this week I'll pull it to try and isolate the issue but it literally sounds like some put a zip tie on the drive shaft and its just slapping something with every rotation.
I've also been watching a bunch of Dirt Every Day... and I really just want to toss some 1 ton axles under it with 40's now... maybe do a cam/spring upgrade to the engine for an extra 80 HP and go see what I can't run over. But for now the 33's will have to suffice.
I've also been watching a bunch of Dirt Every Day... and I really just want to toss some 1 ton axles under it with 40's now... maybe do a cam/spring upgrade to the engine for an extra 80 HP and go see what I can't run over. But for now the 33's will have to suffice.
Whitetrash
TJ Enthusiast
The last time I had that same "zip tie" sound it was simply just the U-Joints in the driveshaft. drove me crazy and even after the advice of others that it was a U joint, I didn't listen. One day I replaced the driveshaft U-Joints, and it went away.
I realized I said I replaced the u-joints in the axle shaft... I meant drive shaft. But I did that when I installed the new rear drive shaft so it's fairly new... less then 1000 miles. I wonder if I lost a needle bearing in one of them. It was a pain in the ass to get the caps on the double cardone and the needle bearings love to fall out on you. I'll pull it this weekend and take a look.
TH99TJ
TJ Enthusiast
I just wanted to share some learned info. I put an 8.8 in mine (excellent axle!) with a Rockhard gas tank skid and a Rough Stuff diff cover,,, they hit each other. Both awesome products but hit on compression. I am running a 3.5 inch lift with the same 33" tires as you run. On the tires, very happy with their off road capability, tons of traction everywhere, the thing swims like a fish in the sand, no complaints,,, butttt they are NOT round! The warranty is mostly nonexistent. IE I was sold another tire at "COST" plus install to remedy the egg shaped tire. I found the out of round tire at just under 4k miles when I rotated it to the back and all the sudden I had a damn clown car ride! In the front it just felt like I lost a weight. Next set will be more expensive tires with a road warranty. (of course any damage will have occurred on the street!) LOL
I would love to do an LS swap,,, soon. I want stay auto, maybe 4L80E or 6L85E???
Does the LS have more room between the radiator and front of accesories allowing it to be moved forward for a slightly longer trans?
I would love to do an LS swap,,, soon. I want stay auto, maybe 4L80E or 6L85E???
Does the LS have more room between the radiator and front of accesories allowing it to be moved forward for a slightly longer trans?
Man what a build . I used to think I could wrench a little til I got on here.
Longhorn84
TJ Enthusiast
Alex0413
TJ Enthusiast
Looks like your Jeep is ready for the rocks! Spring Fling at Sicily Island, LA is the first weekend of April!
Airjunky
TJ Enthusiast
I bought an 02 TJ about a year ago that had a similar setup & the same interference problems. Trussed Ford 8.8 rear diff, stock gas tank skid & a G2 diff cover. Under even the slightest compression of the suspension, the G2 & gas tank skid would scrape together. The G2 is huge & holds like an extra qt of gear oil. I ended up installing a Motobilt diff cover that is closer to stock size & have no interference problems now.
I haven't posted in a while. I haven't been doing to much to the Jeep since I got the rear end installed. I have had these front fenders sitting around the house since I started the engine swap so I figured id get them out of the way for a change. They're the EAG Steel fenders. I was hesitant to go with them because they are on the cheaper side but out side of paying over $1k on fenders, these are the only steel ones I've found that I like. The rounded tube looking ones just really put me off.
I will say they don't come with the best instructions and so far I'm finding they don't fit as snug as I'd of likes them to but once you get everything shifted into place, I really like the way they look. I finally got heavier springs for the front too so it doesn't squat as bad and its not as soggy feeling in turns.
Still working on buttoning up the Driver side, but hopefully after work I can get it all finishes and out driving again. The next project will be a narrow bumper. I'm eye balling the EAG shorty bumper, but crawler concepts makes a nice looking one too, it's just not painted. The first CC one looks almost exactly like the EAG, and then there's the stinger version. I can save $150 not to include getting it painted, or getting a winch plate or... put my luck on a cheaper one and worry about it when I need to?
I definitely need to clean up my accessory wiring as well. I've been looking at a distribution box, I just haven't settled on anything yet.
I will say they don't come with the best instructions and so far I'm finding they don't fit as snug as I'd of likes them to but once you get everything shifted into place, I really like the way they look. I finally got heavier springs for the front too so it doesn't squat as bad and its not as soggy feeling in turns.
Still working on buttoning up the Driver side, but hopefully after work I can get it all finishes and out driving again. The next project will be a narrow bumper. I'm eye balling the EAG shorty bumper, but crawler concepts makes a nice looking one too, it's just not painted. The first CC one looks almost exactly like the EAG, and then there's the stinger version. I can save $150 not to include getting it painted, or getting a winch plate or... put my luck on a cheaper one and worry about it when I need to?
I definitely need to clean up my accessory wiring as well. I've been looking at a distribution box, I just haven't settled on anything yet.
I really hope I get a chance to go this spring. I wasn't even close to being ready last year. I still need to get it tuned because the throttle is 100% open and only 33% of the peddle travel, but apparently that's an easy fix for a turner. It'll definitely make it more drivable when I'm bumping around in the cab and I'm not mashing the gas on accident lol
Alex0413
TJ Enthusiast
Let me know if you want to make a ride this spring or summer! Yeah definitely get that throttle fixed before you hit the rocks lol
Finished up the fenders the other night and decided to drive it to work today. I can't tell you how much better it drives with the new springs. The shorter fenders let the water spray hit the windows when going under 30 mph but its not really a big deal when its raining since the wipers are on anyways.
If you go with the fenders, mine didn't come with instructions so I watched how to install the smitty built ones, made my own template and then cut away. My only suggestion is on the inner wheel well near the 4 bolts, cut as close to the outside as possible. I cut an inch in close to the bolts, and there's an inch gap near the top between the outer fender and cut. not a huge deal, but Id rather not spray more water or dirt into the engine bay if I don't have too. Ill probably just rivet a sheet of aluminum or plastic to clover it later.
On another note, my heater blower only works when its on full blast now... not sure if anyone else has had this issue and how they fixed it? I've had issues with the vents anyways. The only thing that seems to work before was the floor vents and the side window defrost vents. It didn't default to the windshield defrost vents like I've heard its supposed to do. When I shift the selectors, it sounds like it all moves, but as soon as I turn up the air, you can hear a vent slap shut and air only comes out specific vents. I haven't tried pulling it all apart... seemed like a pain and its only cold for a few months in Louisiana.
If you go with the fenders, mine didn't come with instructions so I watched how to install the smitty built ones, made my own template and then cut away. My only suggestion is on the inner wheel well near the 4 bolts, cut as close to the outside as possible. I cut an inch in close to the bolts, and there's an inch gap near the top between the outer fender and cut. not a huge deal, but Id rather not spray more water or dirt into the engine bay if I don't have too. Ill probably just rivet a sheet of aluminum or plastic to clover it later.
On another note, my heater blower only works when its on full blast now... not sure if anyone else has had this issue and how they fixed it? I've had issues with the vents anyways. The only thing that seems to work before was the floor vents and the side window defrost vents. It didn't default to the windshield defrost vents like I've heard its supposed to do. When I shift the selectors, it sounds like it all moves, but as soon as I turn up the air, you can hear a vent slap shut and air only comes out specific vents. I haven't tried pulling it all apart... seemed like a pain and its only cold for a few months in Louisiana.
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Been looking at the next upgrades... besides the bumper as mentioned... I want to do Hood vents like the poison spyder hood louver to help with cooling and then with the swap and how the cold air intake sits, anytime I hit water that's a foot or two deep, I'm worried I'm going to suck it into the engine. I'm sure I'm being hyperbolic since it sits higher then the stock intake, but the stock intake also had a box to help prevent the intake of water. Soooo! I'm looking at building a hood mounted snorkel. I think I can pull it off for around $150 and it wont be a hoopty PVC version. Here's the parts I'm looking at right now.
There's the Pre-Filter which is pretty simple. I might try and find a humvee one cause its shorter and looks better, but people are charging alot for them right now.
I'll use two mounting brakets to go through the hood with a rubber gasket bolted on the inside then attach the flex hose to that so i can open and close the hood still.
The will attach to the inline air box that will probably mount to the fender wall inside the engine bay. then with some silicone tubing or left over flex tube tie into the existing cold air intake where the MAF sensor is. Might drill a hole in the filter box and add a drain stopper incase any water manages to get in I can drain it easily.
The most expensive part is the filter box. Its about $80... the other stuff is all around $25 and the mounting bracket is only 7 dollars. add the other misc. parts and it might go over $150, but not by much... and honestly, if I'm trying to ford anything taller then my hood, I might have more problems to worry about lol
There's the Pre-Filter which is pretty simple. I might try and find a humvee one cause its shorter and looks better, but people are charging alot for them right now.
I'll use two mounting brakets to go through the hood with a rubber gasket bolted on the inside then attach the flex hose to that so i can open and close the hood still.
The will attach to the inline air box that will probably mount to the fender wall inside the engine bay. then with some silicone tubing or left over flex tube tie into the existing cold air intake where the MAF sensor is. Might drill a hole in the filter box and add a drain stopper incase any water manages to get in I can drain it easily.
The most expensive part is the filter box. Its about $80... the other stuff is all around $25 and the mounting bracket is only 7 dollars. add the other misc. parts and it might go over $150, but not by much... and honestly, if I'm trying to ford anything taller then my hood, I might have more problems to worry about lol