I have owned my 98 TJ 4.0 Sport manual transmission since the day it rolled off of the lot. Since then it has gone from a bone stock daily to a super capable crawler. Check it out and leave me a question or comment!
How it started:
How its going:
Here is my build so far:
Driveline:
Yukon Super 35 kit with an Eaton E locker
Yukon 4:88 Gears
Yukon front and rear diff covers
Adams Heavy Duty Front and Rear Driveshafts
Rough Country 4340 Chromoly front alxe Dana 30 Kit
Synergy Heavy Duty Steering Kit
Rancho steering stabilizer
Lift:
4.5" Rubicon Express Long Travel kit
Armor:
Metal Cloak Overline front fenders
Metal Cloak Rocker Rail
Metal Cloak Aluminum Fender Wells
Metal Cloak Oil Pan Skid Plate
Bestop High Rock front and rear bumper
Brakes / Wheels / Tires:
Vanco 16" Big Brake Kit w/ Black Majic Pads
Pro Comp satin black alloy wheels - 17x9
Nitto Trail Grappler M/T - 35x12.50R17
Performance:
AFE CAI with AFE throttle body spacer
Borla exhaust
Hurst Shifter
Lights:
JW Speaker Projectors
Hella Fog Lights
I'm still on the original 4.0 I6 with 132,xxx miles. I have only replaced the things that wear out or break over time like radiator, hoses, seals, steering box, and an oil pump. I also completely renovated the interior myself using tutorials on Youtube.
Towards the middle of this year I am going to put on a set of Fox 2.0 Remote Reservoir shocks and a set of dual rate springs to stop some of the bounce I get over really rocky terrain. I also plan to add a bunch of skid armor underneath and replace my Nitto's with a fresh pair.
This is a purist's jeep in my opinion. No power anything, manual transmission, rattles your teeth loose on the road and is noisy as all hell. But she pretty and she's mine!
FAQs I get asked every time I go out with groups:
Why are you still on Dana 30/35 aren't they total trash?
Everything will break if you push it too hard or wheel in a stupid way. All the upgrades I have made to my driveline has been researched and discussed with my Jeep shop. Running 35's with a stock 4.0 and a beefier axels/gears will get 95% of Jeepers anywhere they would feel comfortable doing. I stick to 5-7 rated trails and obstacles all over the country and have fun doing it.
Is a 4.5" lift on a 2 door is too high for wheeling?
Yes and no. Again, knowing the limits of your rig is key. I have turned on my side twice because of bad lines and overconfidence. Was it because my COG was too high? I doubt it. One of these days I am going to drop down to a 3.5" lift on a more premium brand, not because I don't love sitting higher but I can get a better ride and flex out of a higher quality 3.5" kit. I went with Rubicon because it was affordable 9 years ago and I didnt know shit about what I wanted.
Why only a rear locker?
Believe me, I went back and forth on this a ton. I wheeled for 5 years prior on open diffs. I learned how to "drive" and Im glad I did. 4L helps tremendously and so does a shorter wheel base. Now that I am locked in the rear I typically use it for off-camber type situations or going up slippery rocks when I need that extra traction. On a typical rocky run I may turn it on 1-2 times for assistance.
How it started:
How its going:
Here is my build so far:
Driveline:
Yukon Super 35 kit with an Eaton E locker
Yukon 4:88 Gears
Yukon front and rear diff covers
Adams Heavy Duty Front and Rear Driveshafts
Rough Country 4340 Chromoly front alxe Dana 30 Kit
Synergy Heavy Duty Steering Kit
Rancho steering stabilizer
Lift:
4.5" Rubicon Express Long Travel kit
Armor:
Metal Cloak Overline front fenders
Metal Cloak Rocker Rail
Metal Cloak Aluminum Fender Wells
Metal Cloak Oil Pan Skid Plate
Bestop High Rock front and rear bumper
Brakes / Wheels / Tires:
Vanco 16" Big Brake Kit w/ Black Majic Pads
Pro Comp satin black alloy wheels - 17x9
Nitto Trail Grappler M/T - 35x12.50R17
Performance:
AFE CAI with AFE throttle body spacer
Borla exhaust
Hurst Shifter
Lights:
JW Speaker Projectors
Hella Fog Lights
I'm still on the original 4.0 I6 with 132,xxx miles. I have only replaced the things that wear out or break over time like radiator, hoses, seals, steering box, and an oil pump. I also completely renovated the interior myself using tutorials on Youtube.
Towards the middle of this year I am going to put on a set of Fox 2.0 Remote Reservoir shocks and a set of dual rate springs to stop some of the bounce I get over really rocky terrain. I also plan to add a bunch of skid armor underneath and replace my Nitto's with a fresh pair.
This is a purist's jeep in my opinion. No power anything, manual transmission, rattles your teeth loose on the road and is noisy as all hell. But she pretty and she's mine!
FAQs I get asked every time I go out with groups:
Why are you still on Dana 30/35 aren't they total trash?
Everything will break if you push it too hard or wheel in a stupid way. All the upgrades I have made to my driveline has been researched and discussed with my Jeep shop. Running 35's with a stock 4.0 and a beefier axels/gears will get 95% of Jeepers anywhere they would feel comfortable doing. I stick to 5-7 rated trails and obstacles all over the country and have fun doing it.
Is a 4.5" lift on a 2 door is too high for wheeling?
Yes and no. Again, knowing the limits of your rig is key. I have turned on my side twice because of bad lines and overconfidence. Was it because my COG was too high? I doubt it. One of these days I am going to drop down to a 3.5" lift on a more premium brand, not because I don't love sitting higher but I can get a better ride and flex out of a higher quality 3.5" kit. I went with Rubicon because it was affordable 9 years ago and I didnt know shit about what I wanted.
Why only a rear locker?
Believe me, I went back and forth on this a ton. I wheeled for 5 years prior on open diffs. I learned how to "drive" and Im glad I did. 4L helps tremendously and so does a shorter wheel base. Now that I am locked in the rear I typically use it for off-camber type situations or going up slippery rocks when I need that extra traction. On a typical rocky run I may turn it on 1-2 times for assistance.
