A/C confusion

LilHammer97

LilHammer97

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 19, 2019
Messages
213
Location
Huntingdon, TN
Too keep this as simple as I can I have A/C issues.

My low and high sides are equalized before start up (70 psi @90° outside), and stay the same even with the jeep running.

The Compressor is on and the clutch appears to be engaged. Still doesn't change the pressures on either side. Changing the rpm of engine doesn't effect either side, neither does removing or adding any refrigerant.

I can disconnect the high and low pressure sensors and hear a change in the idle rpm, but still no change in pressures on the manifold gouges.

Any input would be nice cause I don't want to just load the parts cannon at this rig. As far as I know and can tell I think I might have a compressor issue.
 
Aside from that, if you get absolutely no change in pressures then either the compressor is completely shot internally or the clutch isn't actually engaging.
Honestly the only way I could see a clutch that looks to be engaged but generates not even a slight change in pressures, would be if the compressor's shaft snapped internally, which would be a very strange failure.
 
IOwnCalculus said:
Aside from that, if you get absolutely no change in pressures then either the compressor is completely shot internally or the clutch isn't actually engaging.
Honestly the only way I could see a clutch that looks to be engaged but generates not even a slight change in pressures, would be if the compressor's shaft snapped internally, which would be a very strange failure.
Click to expand...

Yes that is what confuses me. Lol that's why I'm here
 
At that point I'd take the belt off, apply 12V to the clutch coil, and try turning it by hand. See if it feels like anything's happening or if you get any weird noises.
 
  • Like
Reactions: LilHammer97
LilHammer97 said:
I initially just open the low side valve to see if it had any charge at all. Then I also opened the high side to find they were equal.
Click to expand...

The valves at each connection to the vehicle system should be open and the valves at the gauge remain closed to properly read pressures.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Daryl
NskLJ said:
The compressor shaft is broken internally
Click to expand...

From what I've gathered I expected it to be the compressor broken internally. I just wish it wasn't that lol I'll be doing some checks on it tomorrow evening to be sure before I spend the dough on a new compressor
 
LilHammer97 said:
From what I've gathered I expected it to be the compressor broken internally. I just wish it wasn't that lol I'll be doing some checks on it tomorrow evening to be sure before I spend the dough on a new compressor
Click to expand...

My recommendation is to pull the office tube also, inspect it metal is compressor, sand is the desiccant bag in the accumulator. The latter requires flushing to remove all the debris. At Ford We used a air powered pump that would flush a solvent through the system and filter it. Then blow air through the system to evaporate all the solvent. The flush procedure was time consuming.
 
  • Like
Reactions: LilHammer97
Well I finally had time to go pick around with the system. I did charge in some uv die and I'm gonna check for leaks later tonight. Also I found this when I pulled my belt off, it's a short video of the ac compressor being spun by hand. I have a new compressor on the way.

 
LilHammer97 said:
Well I finally had time to go pick around with the system. I did charge in some uv die and I'm gonna check for leaks later tonight. Also I found this when I pulled my belt off, it's a short video of the ac compressor being spun by hand. I have a new compressor on the way.

Click to expand...

If you are going to replace the compressor I recommend replacing the accumulator (always a good idea) and the liquid line with the metering device, also be sure to measure all the refrigerant oil from each device.
 
  • Like
Reactions: LilHammer97
TJ4Jim said:
If you are going to replace the compressor I recommend replacing the accumulator (always a good idea) and the liquid line with the metering device, also be sure to measure all the refrigerant oil from each device.
Click to expand...

When my new compressor shows up I'm gonna grab an accumulator. I have the new condenser and orifice already. The compressor I ordered says it comes pre charged with 2 Oz of oil.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TJ4Jim
TJ4Jim said:
If you are going to replace the compressor I recommend replacing the accumulator (always a good idea) and the liquid line with the metering device, also be sure to measure all the refrigerant oil from each device.
Click to expand...

And after some further investigation it appears that part of the clutch is missing off the front of my compressor.
 
LilHammer97 said:
That might explain why then. Thanks for the help man. It means a lot. I'll do a thorough write up on everything I do when I swap and clean all these parts so maybe it can help someone doing the same in the future.
Click to expand...

Might want to consider a flush of the evap and cond along with all new O rings. With a compressor failure it's worth the insurance, stuff is getting expensive.
 
  • Like
Reactions: LilHammer97
I'm happy to report back that with just the new ac compressor on my air is back to ice cold. I'll do a full write up with pictures when I go to replace and flush everything down the road. I'm still waiting on some parts so this will due for now.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TJ4Jim and Succentor
Top Bottom
Back