A lesson learned—keep it light and nimble!

Had to put down the tools and walk away...Whats wrong with this picture?

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Idiots sent me two completely different outers and I installed the wrong one first, before finding out! :mad:
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They sent me matching outers but one of the rotors was looking a little rough.

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Would this cause a problem or is it only cosmetic?
 
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You have to check the fit at two places. The shoulder under the head should be about a .000-.003 interference fit in the hole in the rotor. The max interference in the hub flange should be .010 down to around .005. Most recognize .008 as proper. If that is not the case, you may have some work to do. Yes on the press. The problem is supporting the flange and not the rotor hat unless you want to see how easy it is to break a rotor.
I was just trying to measure this. Is this the right spot that should be around 0.010” interference to the hub flange?

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Got the track bar in. Cycled the suspension, had to move the gas tank skid back a little. Stopped at this point, because I'm very close to the track bar contacting the rear frame cross support. I could grind on it for a tiny bit more travel, but the effort isn't worth the gain on this setup.

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Are you going to weld the Currie bracket to the tube?
I am planning to weld the two bottom tabs. However, I won't do so until I'm 100% certain everything is where I need it to be. And, it will be done at the same time I weld in the mini skids I got from @Wildman.
 
I thought I read on here that the yellow foam bumper doesn’t count, right? You said you were going to add 1” but that looks like more than 1” to the hard stop?
Correct, the jounce bumpers don't really count. You can't see it from the pictures, but there's enough room to close the gap about another inch or so. I did it in one of the test cycles, but didn't get a picture. It's kind of a pain to do this by yourself, because you have to do it several times, moving up in small increments, and constantly stopping to check for interference. I just got tired and lazy, and called it quits for the evening!
 
Correct, the jounce bumpers don't really count. You can't see it from the pictures, but there's enough room to close the gap about another inch or so. I did it in one of the test cycles, but didn't get a picture. It's kind of a pain to do this by yourself, because you have to do it several times, moving up in small increments, and constantly stopping to check for interference. I just got tired and lazy, and called it quits for the evening!
Yep. I did this back when I put on the H&R springs, checking whether the Bilsteins would bottom out or if there were any other problems. I recall it was hard to find a spot for the floor jack where I wasn’t worried it would slide off when one side was fully stuffed.
 
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Yep. I did this back when I put on the H&R springs, checking whether the Bilsteins would bottom out or if there were any other problems. I recall it was hard to find a spot for the floor jack where I wasn’t worried it would slide off when one side was fully stuffed.
I just jacked it from the center section and kept running side to side to check everything. Now, I get to do it again, so I can measure the collapsed and extended lengths for shocks.

BTW, did you run any spacers with the springs? I'm not planning to on the rear, but will run an aluminum 1" spacer up front.
 
I just jacked it from the center section and kept running side to side to check everything. Now, I get to do it again, so I can measure the collapsed and extended lengths for shocks.

BTW, did you run any spacers with the springs? I'm not planning to on the rear, but will run an aluminum 1" spacer up front.
No spacers. Compared to the original stock springs, I had 1.4” lift in the front and 0.8” in the rear. I’m good with where it sits now and I don’t want there to be any squat in the back when I’m running a hitch cargo carrier or a trailer. I’ll think about it more once I see how it looks once I have new bumpers and a winch.
 
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For either of your builds, did you paint the rotors or any other parts of your hub kit for rust prevention?
 
Got the rear set this evening. Trimmed a little off the cross support and was able to get everything tucked up neatly.

Ended up with 1" bump stop in the rear, because the rear track bar bracket pushes the track bar into the tub. The final setup looks like this:
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