Adjustable control arm length

[blazem]

Do you have or did your " whole set" include adjustable track bars?
This will be important moving forward and to help you get set up.
You'll need to ditch the measurement charts for the most part and do the following-
With the jeep supported by the frame-
Remove the control arms one at a time and replace with your new ones. The initial lengths don't matter (within reason) just adjust them to get them in . One at a time. An alignment punch will be your friend. With any luck things won't move around much and they will be close. Snug the bolts, don't fully torque.
Once all 8 CAs are in - lower jeep to rest on the ground ( ride height)
Center the axles side to side by adjusting track bars as needed, push, pull, pry ratchet strap, cuss, have a beer, repeat. Or not, it might be close.
Once exactly centered side to side move on to adjusting axles longitudinally by using the adjustability in the lower arms. Without double adjustable arms this means a lot of up and down and manipulation of the axle. Front and rear to each other (tape measure) and each independently to a common spot on the frame like a skid bolt.
Once arms are in, bolts snugged, axles centered side to side, square to each other, each axle independently square to the the frame report back.
Dont worry about castor or pinon angle until the above is done.
Setting this up will teach you much about our suspensions. Double adjustable CAs make the process much easier and do come at a price but worth there weight in gold.

 

[blazem]

Question/Comment:
Is it good to have the track bars completely torqued prior to taking measurements & adjusting control arms?

In response to your questions: I got adjustable track bars a few years ago and centered the axles. My control arms are single adjustable.

Working on measurements.

Thanks, Blazem

 

[blazem]

I'm open to suggestions on better/more reliable meas locations.

Measurements:
Rear tires: Tread lug to frame Lateral within 3/8" driver vs. passenger (13 1/8:" vs. 13 1/2)
Rear axle: Axle bkt to center hole on T-case skid plate. Same value driver vs. passenger
Any concerns with the above?

Front tires: Tread lug to Upper shock mount rim. Lateral same value (14") driver vs. passenger
Front axle: Axle bkt bolt to center hole on T-case skid plate: Driver side is 3/4" longer (53 1/4 vs. 52 1/2)

Wheel base:
Driver side 93 1/4"
Pass side 92 3/4" Driver side is 1/2" longer. This corroborates the Front axle measurement. Looks like I'll need to add 1/2" or so to my front, pass side lower CA. (All lowers are set to 16 3/8" > hard to believe the factory mislocated the frame bracket that much)
Other suggestions?

Appreciate your interest,
Blazem

 

[JMT]

Question/Comment:
Is it good to have the track bars completely torqued prior to taking measurements & adjusting control arms?

In response to your questions: I got adjustable track bars a few years ago and centered the axles. My control arms are single adjustable.

Working on measurements.

Thanks, Blazem

No reason to loosen your trackbars while setting up your CA’s. If the axles are centered, they’re centered. Leave them alone.

 

[JMT]

I'm open to suggestions on better/more reliable meas locations.

Measurements:
Rear tires: Tread lug to frame Lateral within 3/8" driver vs. passenger (13 1/8:" vs. 13 1/2)
Rear axle: Axle bkt to center hole on T-case skid plate. Same value driver vs. passenger
Any concerns with the above?

Front tires: Tread lug to Upper shock mount rim. Lateral same value (14") driver vs. passenger
Front axle: Axle bkt bolt to center hole on T-case skid plate: Driver side is 3/4" longer (53 1/4 vs. 52 1/2)

Wheel base:
Driver side 93 1/4"
Pass side 92 3/4" Driver side is 1/2" longer. This corroborates the Front axle measurement. Looks like I'll need to add 1/2" or so to my front, pass side lower CA. (All lowers are set to 16 3/8" > hard to believe the factory mislocated the frame bracket that much)
Other suggestions?

Appreciate your interest,
Blazem

If your axles are centered, or close, move on.

As for CA’s, they’ll be what they are to get the correct geometry. There’s not a set length you should set them all too. You want everything to clear when you cycle the suspension and you want your pinion set so you don’t have any driveline vibes. It will be what it will be.