Chances are very good that whatever shocks you end up getting will have rubber bushings. Though depending on your outboard, you may have the opportunity to get something with heim joints.
Adjustable Rear Upper Control Arm Questions
- Thread starter TJChed
- Start date
Chances are very good that whatever shocks you end up getting will have rubber bushings. Though depending on your outboard, you may have the opportunity to get something with heim joints.
I think things are getting missed in the last few posts.
If you think about how much the axle rotates with one tire at full droop and the other at full stuff, you can imagine how much twisting happens between the ends of a control arm. Poly bushings don't really allow for this. Even the stock rubber depends on the twistability of the c channel profile of the stock arms.
The result is ripped off control arm mounts.
Additionally, since the axle doesn't rotate nearly as much relative to the shock as it does to a control arm, the same concerns over rotation don't fully apply. The significant misalignment that occurs with the shock ends is from flex.
Got the Core uppers and installed them. Set pinion. Ensured the rear axle was square and centered. All is good. New question: I am the second owner of my Jeep. '97. Bot it in 2006. It had a 3" lift on it already. When I changed out the rear UCA's, it appears the upper axle bolts are not original. The bolt holes in the UCA axle mount are slotted, and there are some stops on the mounting bracket that seem to indicate the upper rear UCA axle bolt is supposed be a cam bolt. Is that correct? If so, anyone know the bolt measurements? I can guess it is supposed to be 10mm and say 80mm long, 10.9 I presume, but would like confirmation. Thanks
With further inspection, it appears maybe there is supposed to be a spacer or a tab on the upper bolts to help hold them in place....can't tell for sure. Anyone who knows what original config is supposed to be, pls advise. Thanks.
doesn't sound right post pics of the brackets and the new joints.
the rear uppers should fit right into the bracket on the axle end, no tabs. no flag nuts just a nut and bolt.
the frame side has a flag nut, but should not require any spacers.
the rear uppers should fit right into the bracket on the axle end, no tabs. no flag nuts just a nut and bolt.
the frame side has a flag nut, but should not require any spacers.
Pics attached. Driver's side first. The upper rear CA axle brackets have slots for bolt holes and tabs on either side of the slots which indicates to me some sort of insert goes between the tabs, or there should be a cam bolt of some kind. Also, note in the pics how the bolts have slid back and forth in the slots from wheeling yesterday. I have the torque at 55 ft.lbs. which is spec, but these are 3/8" Grade 8 shoulder bolts so I am thinking I need to torque a bunch more to assure the CA sleeve is clamped in properly and prevent sliding.
However, the primary question is, is there supposed to be an insert or something that fits between those tabs on the rear UCA axle mount?
However, the primary question is, is there supposed to be an insert or something that fits between those tabs on the rear UCA axle mount?
my understanding is that at least certain years, maybe all, had the tabs for a cam washer to allow pinion angle adjustment, but they never had slots. Some people then go and make slots to try to get pinion angle adjustment without buying adjustable arms, but I've also read that cam bolts in that position tend to loosen themselves.
You just need to find a washer that fills the space between the tabs to keep the bolt centered.
You just need to find a washer that fills the space between the tabs to keep the bolt centered.
That looks homemade. You will probably need to fix it. Though, proper torque will prevent movement (assuming no grease on the mating surface. Check the max torque for the bolt grade and thread online and tighten down.
Right. Not sure why, but mine have slots. Doesn't look like an after market bracket for sure, and quite sure they weren't drilled 'cause can't hardly get any tools up in there. Also, my TJ is one of the very first ones off the line in 1997, so could be it has this odd bracket that wasn't used long. Doesn't matter really.
Spoke to Spence at Core 4x4 today. He says same thing as you re: washer. Doubt I will find a 3/8" fender washer that is thick enough or of hard enough steel to withstand the punishment, so will likely make a square insert out of 3/16" steel. That should do it. Spence also said to torque those Grade 8s down to 100ish vs. 55 to be sure to clamp the sleeve very tightly if doing more extreme wheeling. Will do both.
He also recommended using JJ upper CA heads to reduce pressure on the bracket (vs. rubber or poly). Probably going to do that, too, but a little later.
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