Adjusting front axle pinion angle
- Thread starter bobthetj03
- Start date
OP
I understand that. If you only have single adjustables, then what are you doing with the driver upper while making adjustments to the passenger upper?
Adjust the pinion with the driver side upper. Once the pinion is set, leaving axle side bolt loose. Then adjust the passenger side arm so that if will fit. Make sure that the preload on each axle bushing is even on each arm.
Using a jack on the tie rod relieves the load on the arms. Make it so the bolts on both arms will spin by hand evenly. Tighten bolts. Lower jack and recheck pinion. Torque bolts as needed.
Leave the axle side arm holding the pinion angle while you adjust the passenger side to fit. Then verify even load on each arm.
OP
So, both uppers are detached from the axle side while making adjustments? What's keeping the axle from rotating ?
I’ve heard of some using a jack to keep the axle from rotating. I personally jack up and block the frame to remove the load on the springs. Then lower back down to check after making adjustments. It might be the long way, but it feels safer for me. I don’t do it enough to worry about what is faster. Single adjustable arms make it a process for sure.
I hate to make this more complicated. After spending an hour at my friends house one of my control
Arms is barely adjustable. I believe I can turn it to the point I need. I plan to set it at stock length. Jacking the jeep high on stands and resting the axle on stands got me back to about 11 degrees. I may have to pull the springs to install it. The worst thing about that is the bump stop extensions on the axle. I have learned dont ever pull both uppers on the front rest in on the wheels. 2) dont leave it sittingbover night or the springs will make it worse. 3) double end arms are worth it for the upper front.
Arms is barely adjustable. I believe I can turn it to the point I need. I plan to set it at stock length. Jacking the jeep high on stands and resting the axle on stands got me back to about 11 degrees. I may have to pull the springs to install it. The worst thing about that is the bump stop extensions on the axle. I have learned dont ever pull both uppers on the front rest in on the wheels. 2) dont leave it sittingbover night or the springs will make it worse. 3) double end arms are worth it for the upper front.
Have no idea of the brand. The issue was how to handle a front 44 axlevwith the upper rods removed. My bump stops were not centered. Lengthing those lowers will help angle and the bumps. The photos say a lot. Bump stop brought the axle to 90 or
zero
zero
Looks like your arms were adjusted shorter to maybe clear the track bar?
Possibly due to the pinion angle you had to run with the higher lift?
Now that you have lowered your pinion angle due to less lift you could possibly lengthen the bottom arms a bit to help. If it were me I would start fresh. At least check to see how much you can move your axle forward now that you have a lot less pinion angle. Checking for clearance at full bump.
Then lengthen lowers accordingly.
That is IF you have the clearance to do so.
Possibly due to the pinion angle you had to run with the higher lift?
Now that you have lowered your pinion angle due to less lift you could possibly lengthen the bottom arms a bit to help. If it were me I would start fresh. At least check to see how much you can move your axle forward now that you have a lot less pinion angle. Checking for clearance at full bump.
Then lengthen lowers accordingly.
That is IF you have the clearance to do so.
I have one of the uppers in temporary. I am going to let those lowers out a bit and improve that bump stop and go from there. The po had a larger lift and I have pulled it out and reduced it to 2.5 OME suspension. I am turning 75 this year and this is hard work. I am learning though.
Yes it is. Lots of back and forth. I recent replaced my rear uppers and decided to get the Savvy DA arms. I will never buy single adjustable arms again!!!! Lol.
One thing I did when I was messing with moving my axle around. I blocked the frame near ride height. Removed the springs. Then used ratchet straps to set the axle height. For me it made rotating the axle easier. Can get pinion really close if not perfect doing it that way. Works for me, not limited by the jack stand preset adjustments.
I purchased the savvy. I also wondered how they would adjust without a place for a wrench. They adjust easily by hand. Lots of the Metalcloak arms running around too. I hade some frozen up rear uppers too that made the decision easy to make a purchase. I don’t think you can go wrong with either set nor have I had mine long enough to give any type of review.
While comparing double adjustables, made 2 trips to the big vise working on that dicy rough country upper front control arm. I got two turns on each trip using a 24 “ cresent and another two feet of cheater pipe. I am now measuring 6.8 on the drive shaft and 7.1” on the pinion.if my center measurements are good, I am thinking torque it down and test drive it. If it drives and doesnt vibrate. I will get a caster and toe check.