Advice on a quality heat gun

Trevlaw

Trevlaw

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Looking for any recommendations on a good quality heat gun. My harbor freight one caught on fire today, so it will need replaced lol

My main project will eventually be for heating up and scraping off nearly an entire trucks worth of bed liner, so corded may be the best option for me, the hotter the better. Extra tip types would be a plus. Will also be used for heat shrink on electrical connectors.
 
I used HF’s cheapest heat gun for several years. Once it stopped working I bought the Bauer that they also carry. It has been fantastic. It gets very hot depending on where you adjust it. Had it a couple of years now. I don’t have a need to spend any more when this is doing all I want it to do. 816 reviews with only 17 reviews lower than 4 stars…

https://www.harborfreight.com/power...emperature-dual-fan-speed-heat-gun-64112.html
 
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I’ve been using this one for about 5 years with no issue. Not sure if it’s as hot as you need though. I didn’t buy the kit though, just the gun.

Wagner Spraytech 2417344 HT1000 Heat Gun Kit, 3 Nozzles Included, 2 Temp Settings 750ᵒF & 1000ᵒF, Great for Shrink Wrap, Soften Paint, Bend Plastic Pipes, Loosen Bolts and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RHDWTW1/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
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Trevlaw said:
Looking for any recommendations on a good quality heat gun. My harbor freight one caught on fire today, so it will need replaced lol

My main project will eventually be for heating up and scraping off nearly an entire trucks worth of bed liner, so corded may be the best option for me, the hotter the better. Extra tip types would be a plus. Will also be used for heat shrink on electrical connectors.
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Lots of folks have said that the Milwaukee M18 heat gun is okay, in reality it is a flaming pile of battery powered poo. Not the fault of Milwaukee, they did what they could, but batteries and heat guns do not belong together.

I finally had to do a test to show them the difference between a real heat gun and what the Milwaukee does.
Our basic heat shrink butt connector from Del City. Top is the very old Johnson corded. Bottom is the M18.

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I've been using a corded Ryobi for a long time now. Looks like they've discontinued the model but it's been a workhorse for sometime now...
 
MountaineerTom said:
I’ve been using this one for about 5 years with no issue. Not sure if it’s as hot as you need though. I didn’t buy the kit though, just the gun.

Wagner Spraytech 2417344 HT1000 Heat Gun Kit, 3 Nozzles Included, 2 Temp Settings 750ᵒF & 1000ᵒF, Great for Shrink Wrap, Soften Paint, Bend Plastic Pipes, Loosen Bolts and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RHDWTW1/?tag=wranglerorg-20
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I did the same one when my corded milwaukee died about 5 years ago.

It is much lighter and does not spit sparks.

DDDC94E4-A5FB-451B-9224-E4D0B46A6726.jpeg
 
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I have 2. One made in China MHT Products and one German brand Stinel made in Romania. I use the MHT for general use but have not used it more than 15 min at a time. I use the Stinel for welding plastic. It has a temp setting from 0-1200 degrees and has tips for directing the heat around different objects. I’ve had both for several years. The issue you are going to have is the long duration it needs to be on to strip that much liner. Have you thought of using a propane torch?

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bucky said:
I have 2. One made in China MHT Products and one German brand Stinel made in Romania. I use the MHT for general use but have not used it more than 15 min at a time. I use the Stinel for welding plastic. It has a temp setting from 0-1200 degrees and has tips for directing the heat around different objects. I’ve had both for several years. The issue you are going to have is the long duration it needs to be on to strip that much liner. Have you thought of using a propane torch?

View attachment 311866

View attachment 311868
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Haven't considered a propane torch, that may not be a bad idea. I was looking at the steinel heat guns, seem like a nice unit. Was looking at them and another called Leister, they both have models that go up to 1300*.

I'm waiting to hear back from a guy local selling a nice looking Leister Triac ST for $100, if he's still got it I'm going to give that a shot. If not, I'll probably keep an eye out for a second hand steinel or Leister.
 
Appreciate everyone's replies, think I'm going to keep an eye out for a Leister or Steinel that goes up to 1300* with variable temp and air flow.

I may pick up a Wagner in the meantime if I get tired of using a lighter for my electrical stuff. Seems like that's a good budget option for general purpose stuff.
 
mrblaine said:
Lots of folks have said that the Milwaukee M18 heat gun is okay, in reality it is a flaming pile of battery powered poo. Not the fault of Milwaukee, they did what they could, but batteries and heat guns do not belong together.

I finally had to do a test to show them the difference between a real heat gun and what the Milwaukee does.
Our basic heat shrink butt connector from Del City. Top is the very old Johnson corded. Bottom is the M18.

View attachment 311764


View attachment 311765
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Good to know the Milwaukee isn't worth the money, I was looking at it as a cordless option would be really nice. Your test seems to confirm what I'd seen others mention about the lack of airflow and lower temp compared to a normal corded gun
 
I got a cheap chinese one on amazon a couple years ago. Used it once. Got it out a month later, and it wasn't putting out any heat with the temperature knob maxed out.

1645814922183.png


Did an exchange and got another one. Same thing. Then, for some reason I turned the heat knob. The typical interpretation of that knob would be that the width of the bar lines up with a fixed marker, and you line up the plus with the marker (knob full counterclockwise) would be full heat, and - would be full cold. But no. If you turn the knob full clockwise, THAT's full heat.

I still use it. Just gotta remember the tapered bar should be an arrow.
 
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freedom_in_4low said:
I got a cheap chinese one on amazon a couple years ago. Used it once. Got it out a month later, and it wasn't putting out any heat with the temperature knob maxed out.

View attachment 312039

Did an exchange and got another one. Same thing. Then, for some reason I turned the heat knob. The typical interpretation of that knob would be that the width of the bar lines up with a fixed marker, and you line up the plus with the marker (knob full counterclockwise) would be full heat, and - would be full cold. But no. If you turn the knob full clockwise, THAT's full heat.

I still use it. Just gotta remember the tapered bar should be an arrow.
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Chinglish is hard to interpret. I find if I put on a Chinese accent, it helps. Much like yoda ease.
 
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WSS said:
I see flooring guys use those more than other brands. Must be durable, these guys are rough on equipment.
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My son gave me the complete DeWalt heat gun kit for Christmas 2 years ago, have not used it since the Porter Cable is still cranking.
 
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I have two suggestions for features that I have found helpful…

  1. Sometimes you need 3 hands so conside a heat gun that can stand upright on it own.
  2. Having a few angled or bendable tips / deflectors can make the difference between a good seal on your connector and the unintended melting of other components.
 
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mrblaine said:
Lots of folks have said that the Milwaukee M18 heat gun is okay, in reality it is a flaming pile of battery powered poo. Not the fault of Milwaukee, they did what they could, but batteries and heat guns do not belong together.

I finally had to do a test to show them the difference between a real heat gun and what the Milwaukee does.
Our basic heat shrink butt connector from Del City. Top is the very old Johnson corded. Bottom is the M18.

View attachment 311764


View attachment 311765 i found this suggestion Skil 8007 MB download instruction manual pdf. what did you say about this?
Click to expand...

Looking for a new heat gun, I've been using Wagner heat guns forever, I want something with really good air flow output. Any tips appreciated. Hope all yall are doing well!
 
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