Advice sought for build plan

Zinnal

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So cal
I am getting close to envisioning my TJ build and was looking for some advice from you guys. I am looking to end up with a build that will be able to run any of local trails in big bear (holcomb, gold mountain, johnbull) and also things like Rubicon/Moab/DusyErshim on vacations. The jeep is a 2002 TJ with the 4.0 and AX5 manual transmission on Dana 30/35 axles. Here is what I am planning:

1) Lift - JKS 2" lift, Savvy 1.25" BL, Savvy 1" MML - Installed last week
2) Rock Sliders - Warn (these are showing up this week)
3) Skid Plates - Currently leaning toward Barnes 4wd (unless Aluminum UCF warrants the extra $). High clearance TCase skid, High clearance Gas Skid, Engine skid
4) Tires - 33" Milestar M/T 02 - I like the idea of being able to inflate these to a high pressure for road driving
5) Winch/Bumpers - TBD but currently thinking VR8000 for the winch and metalcloak slimcrawler for the rear
6) Fenders - Something like the fishbone set? I dont know yet
7) Axles - Regearing to 4.56 or 4.88
Diff Covers - Front - Rockhard "Hard Hat // Rear - Solid Dana 35 diff cover​
Front Axle - POWERTRAX No-Slip Traction System Locker​
The big outstanding questions I have are with the axles.
—-Should I also add the 4340 axles to the front?​
—-If I am adding a locker on the back(assuming an e-locker would be best), should I install the super35 kit or search for a used Dana 44?​
—-Order of axle work? It would be great to do this all at once but funds aren't infinite and I'd like to space it out if possible. Should I regear and add the front locker first, then worry about adding a rear locker and beefier rear later? Could I skip the regear initially and just for a front locker?​
What I am asking is for you guys to take a look at this hairbrained plan and let me know what advise you have. Even if its just a partial answer to a question, or a suggestion on a different part based on my build plan.

And, yes I am planning on starting a build thread to document all of this. I just want to get everything planned out first so I am not building and rebuilding and having long gaps of downtime while I refigure things out.


THANKS!
 
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To clear 33s without losing any up-travel (very important) you're going to want 4" of lift. To accomplish that I'd go with a 2.5" lift and a 1.25" body lift in your case. That's only going to be 3.75", but that's better than the 3.25" of lift you're currently talking about (which isn't enough).

For skid plates you want aluminum. Savvy is of course the gold standard in this category, but if those aren't available I'd go with Barnes or UCF.

I have no experience with Milestar tires but given what a shitty tire the Milestar Patagonia is, I would probably not run anything from them. Again, no experience with them personally, I've just read far too many negative things to ever consider them as a brand.

As for a Winch, you can never go wrong with Warn. For bumpers, don't bother unless they're aluminum, period.

For fenders, take your pick. I was always happy with my GenRight aluminums.

For your axles you should go with 4340 front shafts, yes. Same with the rear too.

Go with a Super 35 kit for the rear and re-gear as well as add lockers (ARB or Eaton e-lockers) at the same time. Do it all at once, don't go skipping things here and there. Do it once, do it right.

In addition, if you're planning on doing rock crawling you're going to hate having a manual transmission, I'll tell you that from firsthand experience.
 
4) Tires - 33" Milestar M/T 02 - I hate the idea of having to inflate these to a high pressure for road driving

FTFY

I'd recommend setting up saved search notifications for "TJ axles" on FBMP. Can be some deals on there from folks that upgrade that will cost less than gears and lockers.
 
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To clear 33s without losing any up-travel (very important) you're going to want 4" of lift. To accomplish that I'd go with a 2.5" lift and a 1.25" body lift in your case. That's only going to be 3.75", but that's better than the 3.25" of lift you're currently talking about (which isn't enough).
Could this be accomplished with just adding new springs? spacers :$ ?

For skid plates you want aluminum. Savvy is of course the gold standard in this category, but if those aren't available I'd go with Barnes or UCF.
Aluminum is just to save weight, right? Any issues with strength?
I have no experience with Milestar tires but given what a shitty tire the Milestar Patagonia is, I would probably not run anything from them. Again, no experience with them personally, I've just read far too many negative things to ever consider them as a brand.

As for a Winch, you can never go wrong with Warn. For bumpers, don't bother unless they're aluminum, period.
Again. why shouldnt I bother with steel bumpers? Seems like they would be stronger when bashing into things
For fenders, take your pick. I was always happy with my GenRight aluminums.

For your axles you should go with 4340 front shafts, yes. Same with the rear too.

Go with a Super 35 kit for the rear and re-gear as well as add lockers (ARB or Eaton e-lockers) at the same time. Do it all at once, don't go skipping things here and there. Do it once, do it right.

In addition, if you're planning on doing rock crawling you're going to hate having a manual transmission, I'll tell you that from firsthand experience.
I'm not looking to add a transmission swap to this project, or explain to my wife why I need to buy a different jeep, so I think I am just going to have to power through it with what I've got for now.

Appreciate your help!
 
Could this be accomplished with just adding new springs? spacers :$ ?


Aluminum is just to save weight, right? Any issues with strength?

Again. why shouldnt I bother with steel bumpers? Seems like they would be stronger when bashing into things

I'm not looking to add a transmission swap to this project, or explain to my wife why I need to buy a different jeep, so I think I am just going to have to power through it with what I've got for now.

Appreciate your help!

Yes, it could be accomplished with new springs. You're also going to need new control arms and an SYE (and new rear driveshaft too). The best bet would be to just spend the money and get a high quality 4" lift the RockJock short arm.

A golden rule every Jeeper should remember is that 6061 aluminum is pound for pound almost the exact same strength as mild weld steel. Aluminum is the way to go as long as it is the right grade of aluminum. It will save you a considerable amount of weight, won't rust, etc. Weight is a killer on TJs.

As for the bumpers, see what I wrote above. Steel bumpers are 100% unnecessary. Believe me when I say there's a reason that so many of us run aluminum. It's not because we don't know how to drive either.

No worries on the transmission, just know that you're gonna be cursing yourself if you ever get into any sort of technical rock crawling with a manual.

The best advice I can give you is to do this once and do it right. You're gonna drop well over 10k on this to do it right the first time, but you'll save yourself so many hassles and headaches if you do.
 
You have similar goals as me, also similar location and trails. 👍

I'm currently running 33s on stock Dana 30/35 with the Powertrax no slip in the front. I was able to complete all of those trails in big bear with that set up (still open in the rear). A TJ on 33s is quite capable!
 
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You have similar goals as me, also similar location and trails. 👍

I'm currently running 33s on stock Dana 30/35 with the Powertrax no slip in the front. I was able to complete all of those trails in big bear with that set up (still open in the rear). A TJ on 33s is quite capable!

Awesome! Thanks!

Did you install the locker yourself or take it to a shop? Which shop if so. Also what gears are you running(assuming you changed from stock