I just used a garden hose with a little pressure nozzle on the end.
Alex01 Silver Sport Build Thread
- Thread starter Alex01
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OP
Great. I'll just flush it regardless. I'm sure it has never been done.
I'll be in your area on the 16th doing (assisting with) the shock relocation if your around.
I should be around. I'll bring that trailer tire over to JB's shop.
OP
Dang those look beefy, I’m always surprised how big some of these CAs are they look so tiny in photos.
OP
I was thinking the same thing when I took them out of the box. Now I need to start saving for the other 3 sets.
OP
OP
I just read about them on their
It says they’re aircraft grade extrusion which means 6061 which is a good thing. Let me know how they ride cause the Smithsonian wants my old RE LIFT and I’m done rebuilding them.
OP
I'll let you know if I notice anything. In the mean time @bobthetj03 would be a much better resource. I'm only replacing my front uppers at this point because my current re's won't shorten enough for my trackbar to clear the differential. The new mc arms will get me around .75 more of adjustment to play with. In the future I'll swap over the rest but only as money allows.
I think I may need a heater core, but I am not going to replace it. At least not till I really have too. It all started with me wanting to go play in the snow, and I was getting the Jeep all ready. I have never even tried the heater since I bought the Jeep a couple of years ago. There was no heat, so I back flushed the heater core, and I got it barely warm. It looked like the water was flowing nice and it was clean.
i ended up replacing all of my freeze plugs and the Mopar water pump, tstat, and all of the hoses. I filled with Goat Juice(anti-freeze) and ran it for a while. Now at idle barely any heat, but as I drive it pushes out a little more heat, but nothing that will keep us very warm.
If I grab my heater hoses after it is warmed up the upper hose is way hot and the lower is semi hot. I imagine my heater core is plugged beyond a back flush, but it isn't leaking, and since I live in Arizona, I don't really need heat. At least I haven't in the last two years, but if I do go chasing snow I will probably need blankets. Most I could get out of it on a 60 degree day was 78 degrees. Not great, but takes the edge off. I imaging a heater core would fix this, but not my idea of a fun Saturday afternoon. Until it starts leaking I will live with it.
i ended up replacing all of my freeze plugs and the Mopar water pump, tstat, and all of the hoses. I filled with Goat Juice(anti-freeze) and ran it for a while. Now at idle barely any heat, but as I drive it pushes out a little more heat, but nothing that will keep us very warm.
If I grab my heater hoses after it is warmed up the upper hose is way hot and the lower is semi hot. I imagine my heater core is plugged beyond a back flush, but it isn't leaking, and since I live in Arizona, I don't really need heat. At least I haven't in the last two years, but if I do go chasing snow I will probably need blankets. Most I could get out of it on a 60 degree day was 78 degrees. Not great, but takes the edge off. I imaging a heater core would fix this, but not my idea of a fun Saturday afternoon. Until it starts leaking I will live with it.
The Cloaks are beefy as hell. I don't think you'll notice much difference in ride quality unless your previous junk is flat wore out.
OP
I poked around a bit today with my issue this afternoon. I think the door actuator is on its way out. After I rotated the dial from freezing to boiling a few times it seemed to have unstuck itself and started blowing heat again. For good measure I'll back flush the system but, as far as parts go probably just get a new door actuator and call it a day. I did notice a few months back a few drops of antifreeze on the passenger floor but I'll keep ignoring that until the problem gets worse.
Were you able to finish up the rest of the cab over wiring?
I poked around a bit today with my issue this afternoon. I think the door actuator is on its way out. After I rotated the dial from freezing to boiling a few times it seemed to have unstuck itself and started blowing heat again. For good measure I'll back flush the system but, as far as parts go probably just get a new door actuator and call it a day. I did notice a few months back a few drops of antifreeze on the passenger floor but I'll keep ignoring that until the problem gets worse.
Were you able to finish up the rest of the cab over wiring?
So I only need to still zip tie and hook to the aux battery, but I lazed out after work tonight. That doesn't usually happen, but the moon and sun aligned just right today, so I took the night off. I will get out tomorrow night, and finish it up. I hate being this close, and not finishing. I probably have about another hour.
Now wifes Jeep is blocking in the garage. I need to get that done too. One of the things I need to do is rear ujoints, but her driveline has a harmonic balancer on it. Do you have any idea how to remove it? Does it just slip into the transfer case? Mine I had to cut, and beat it out to ad my SYE, but hers is completely different. Have you done one of those yet?
I am also doing the zj front steering upgrade also. Once I get those two things done, I am done with her Jeep for a while. Then I can tend back to my business.
OP
So close. I'm the same way where once I start a project I usually need to get it done asap or else I obsess over it until its done.
I mine did not have a harmonic balancer so I don't have any first hand experience. I found a write up from stu-offroad that will probably help.
"Step 10. To remove the harmonic balancer you will need 3 M6 2inch bolts fully threaded.
Preferably grade 10.8. Note this is metric grading not standard which we are all familiar with. Grade 10.8 would be close to grade 8 for standard bolts. I had to use Grade 8.8 metric for this removal as I could not find 10.8. I bent several bolts in the process.
If you have a tap for M6 clean out the treads, if not PB Blaster them a lot and spray the bolts down with WD-40 so they thread easily. Insert the bolts and turn them all evenly and the harmonic balancer will slow pull itself off. Note: This will damage the tail housing but since you adding a super short housing anyways this is not an issue. I had to swap bolts as my weak bolts could not handle it and bent, but I swapped out them before they broke and the balancer came off without incident. "
Here is the article: https://www.stu-offroad.com/engine/jbsye/sye-1.htm
I don't need to remove the balancer. I need to remove the driveline, but there is a harmonic balancer on it. I can probably figure it out, but I broke the crap out of mine removing it, but on mine I was replacing it with a SYE anyway, but hers she doesn't want one so I need to be more careful with hers.
Oh ok I see the article, The balancer doesn't come off with the driveline. That is kind of weird, but at least now I know what I need to do and get. Thanks for the link
OP