Think I finally found a good HP 30. Before I take the junk axle out I want to get this beefed up for 35s. Going to be running 5.13 gears, should I worry about putting a locker or limited slip in or leave it open and just lock the rear? If so, what preferences? Air, electric? And axle shafts... think I’m going to go with a 4340 shaft but keep it 27 spline due to having 3 axles now... which means plenty of stock spares. Are there any other manufacturers that use a 1350 joint besides revolution? Sorry for the lengthy post and thanks!
Another Dana 30 build
- Thread starter ARawls88
- Start date
jesseshoots
TJ Enthusiast
If you're planning on wheeling where you need 35's and a HPD30 then yes, you should most definitely put in a locker. I have a lock right in my front Dana 30 and it does its job well, but can be a little annoying on the street. I have a Detroit in the rear and would rather have one of those up front, but it was already built this way by the PO.
Having driven jeeps with selectable lockers and auto lockers, I prefer the auto lockers. No reason other than I don't have to deal with engaging them or anything preventing them from doing so (leaky air lines, bad compressor, shorted wire, cut wire, etc.)
Having driven jeeps with selectable lockers and auto lockers, I prefer the auto lockers. No reason other than I don't have to deal with engaging them or anything preventing them from doing so (leaky air lines, bad compressor, shorted wire, cut wire, etc.)
It really depends on what you plan to do with your rig? If you're planning some serious wheeling in the future then I'd recommend installing a selectable locker if your budget allows. If you're sticking to more mild types of trails then I'd leave it open and save the money for something else. I really like the Eaton E-locker in my HP30. That's the only locker I've had experience with so far.
Chromoly shafts are a good idea if you can afford them. I installed the Almost Alloy kit from Iron Rock offroad to buy me some time on the stock axles. I plan to upgrade to the Revolution shafts in the near future. They are the only makers, that I'm aware of, that offer the larger JK U-joints for our axles. Perhaps someone else will chime in to correct me if I'm wrong.
https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/almost-alloy-kit.html
Again, depending on what's in store for your future, you may also consider an axle truss, "C" gussets and heavier control arm brackets to add additional strength as an "insurance policy" of sorts.
Chromoly shafts are a good idea if you can afford them. I installed the Almost Alloy kit from Iron Rock offroad to buy me some time on the stock axles. I plan to upgrade to the Revolution shafts in the near future. They are the only makers, that I'm aware of, that offer the larger JK U-joints for our axles. Perhaps someone else will chime in to correct me if I'm wrong.
https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/almost-alloy-kit.html
Again, depending on what's in store for your future, you may also consider an axle truss, "C" gussets and heavier control arm brackets to add additional strength as an "insurance policy" of sorts.
Only reason for the HP30 is that my upper ball joint holes factory C’s on the LP30 and my other spare HP30 were wallowed and won’t hold a BJ anymore. I don’t wheel hard. Jeep will be used for work and maybe a few fun weekends, but nothing hardcore/rock bouncing. I’m going to do the buy once/cry once and hopefully be done with it. I researched C-gussets and trussing it, but it seems people think doing such on a 30 is more for preference than a necessity. As far as lockers, if I do decide I definitely want selectables, not sure I want the hassle of air though.
I sold a few items I had that I wasn’t using. I was preparing to purchase a Currie 44, but I believe this HP30 I just picked up will be good! Or at least the passenger side shows promise. So I have the extra funds now to be able to do it right. And not that I’m against spending the money on the revolution shafts, just seeing if there’s another option that’s equivalent that may be less costly. I would take the chance with RCVs but I don’t see a 27 spline option.
Air isn't a hassle. The tubing on an ARB unit isn't some cheap plastic stuff. It is hardened poly material and will take abuse. Ive had air lockers for 4 years now and one leak from the seal housing which only happened after the numerous gear changes. The other issue was a failed pressure switch, 5 dollars later and I was up and running again. Never a leak from the tubing.
Keep an eye on Amazon for RG&A shafts, @rasband found his for a very good deal
Keep an eye on Amazon for RG&A shafts, @rasband found his for a very good deal
So your opinion... arb over Eaton or were you just explaining that it air isn’t going to be as difficult as I think it will be? I haven’t looked much in to ARB, does it come with the compressor? And thanks for the heads up. I’ll head over to amazon now.
I had an Eaton E-locker in my previous jeep but decided on the ARB for my current one. I like the ARB hands down over the Eaton. Even though I should anticipate when I need to be locked, let's face it, sometimes in the heat of the moment as you are running a trail, you forget to lock, then you get in a bad situation. The Eaton requires a certain rotation before it is fully locked in, and if you are a bit too heavy on the pedal, it can possibly do damage as it tries to lock as the axle is spinning. I never experienced it, but it was a fear.
The ARB is locked as soon as flip the switch, no hesitation, it is fully locked. That is a bit of peace of mind. Plus I have a compressor that I can use to air up when I wheel in a place that doesn't have any air close by. That comes in handy too.
The ARB is locked as soon as flip the switch, no hesitation, it is fully locked. That is a bit of peace of mind. Plus I have a compressor that I can use to air up when I wheel in a place that doesn't have any air close by. That comes in handy too.
Yes you are correct on it being over kill possibly. But with my line of work I could end up back in Utah, Colorado or Montana where I could actually get to enjoy the jeep for more than work... and then there id be wishing that I’d have beefed it up the first time rather than just enough to suffice. I’m going to have to dig more into the air vs electric before I can honestly see what I think will suit me best
I just picture air lockers and leaks... I guess the same can be said about e lockers and shorting out or broke wire...
It certainly makes sense to buy once, cry once. If your budget will allow it, I say go nuts!
@HYRYSC does point out a key difference between the ARB and Eaton. The Eaton requires about 1/8 of a tire rotation to fully engage and disengage. It also temporarily locks / unlocks as you change direction. So if you're locked, then roll backwards far enough on an incline it will disengage then re-engage. Then disengage / re-engage as you start moving forward again. I've never found that characteristic on the trail (or on an obstacle) to be problematic. It's certainly good to be aware of though.
I feel that the cost of the two systems is something worth considering. Have you priced an ARB along with the compressor and everything? If you plan to add on-board air then that does offset some of the extra $$, but that really isn't comparing apples to apples...
@HYRYSC does point out a key difference between the ARB and Eaton. The Eaton requires about 1/8 of a tire rotation to fully engage and disengage. It also temporarily locks / unlocks as you change direction. So if you're locked, then roll backwards far enough on an incline it will disengage then re-engage. Then disengage / re-engage as you start moving forward again. I've never found that characteristic on the trail (or on an obstacle) to be problematic. It's certainly good to be aware of though.
I feel that the cost of the two systems is something worth considering. Have you priced an ARB along with the compressor and everything? If you plan to add on-board air then that does offset some of the extra $$, but that really isn't comparing apples to apples...
I've had a couple friends with issues with leaky air locker, all of those have been inside the diff. So who's to say the leaks weren't the result of something else? I really can't say.
The only electrical issues I've had with the Eatons were caused by installation errors on my part. I look at them as learning opportunities. Both instances gave me good practice troubleshooting electrical circuits, something I really need practice on anyways. lol
I'm certainly not trying to sway your decision. I know the ARB's are solid. Just offering up what I've learned along my own journey.
Decisions decisions.
Decisions decisions.
Both the Eaton and ARB are top tier and are HANDS DOWN better than wheeling open.
Once you decide which route to take, give Allen a shout at Allen's Offroad. He was really helpful when I did my axle upgrades, very knowledgeable too. He also worked up a good price for me due to all the parts I was buying at one time.
I’ll give him a shout. Looks like their about to wake up on his side of the country. Thanks!!
Yea I don’t think it’ll be a wrong decision either way, just matter of preference mainly