Here are some pictures of the front axle out. It was easier to take the carrier in and out with the axle out. I ended up pulling the carrier in and out probably a dozen times before I was satisfied with my pattern/setup.
Another Jeep Mod Rabbit Hole
- Thread starter Jp'n Jess
- Start date
The crush sleeve was a pain in the ass. I knew it wasn’t gonna crush easily and it did not disappoint. I first tried my 1/2in drive impact wrench to take the play out. Well it quickly tapped out. So then I picked up the axle housing and stood it on end so that the yoke would fit in my vise. I then tried my 1/2 breaker bar with a 4ft cheater pipe. I was basically doing pull-ups on it and it wouldn’t budge. I was afraid I was gonna bust my socket or wrench so I then stepped up to plan “C” and really my last option. I borrowed my dad’s ”big ass” 3/4 inch impact wrench. I put it on and gave it a couple of ”Gugga guggas”. NOTHING. . . I was ready to give up. I then thought for kicks and grins I would turn the air pressure up to about 160 and see what happened. That finally got the pinion nut to turning. It still took quite a lot of ”Guggas” but finally did the trick. Once all the play was out I then would watch the socket as it slowly turned. After each 1/8 of a turn I would check the pinion preload until I got it to spec. So yea. . . a pain in the ass.
An issue I ran into after reassembly was when I went to test the locker through the spin test, I couldn’t get the locker to disengage as it should when in 2wd navigating turns. At that point it was late and I was irritated and disgusted with the thought of taking the carrier back out. I slept on it and decided the next morning to drive it around the block just to see what would happen. It made a violent pop I could fill in the steering wheel once I turned to the left and then again when I turned right out of the driveway. I figured I would ”limp“ it down the street and turn it around and go back to the garage, but when I turned around it didn’t pop. So I continued to drive it and never had another issue since. My only hypothesis is that all the axle grease I used to assemble the aussie locker (as per the instructions) was so sticky after sitting on my work bench for 3 weeks, that it took the weight of the Jeep to break it loose. Once both cam gears broke free and the gear oil got worked around they starting ratcheting like they should. I even performed the spin test, as per the instructions, and it all works now.
Jeeper_Creeper
Member
Did you get the rear axle all done as well? Maybe I missed a post but I thought you said you had the wrong bolts so you were just starting on the front for now. So did you just change the gears in the front and add the aussie locker so far?An issue I ran into after reassembly was when I went to test the locker through the spin test, I couldn’t get the locker to disengage as it should when in 2wd navigating turns. At that point it was late and I was irritated and disgusted with the thought of taking the carrier back out. I slept on it and decided the next morning to drive it around the block just to see what would happen. It made a violent pop I could fill in the steering wheel once I turned to the left and then again when I turned right out of the driveway. I figured I would ”limp“ it down the street and turn it around and go back to the garage, but when I turned around it didn’t pop. So I continued to drive it and never had another issue since. My only hypothesis is that all the axle grease I used to assemble the aussie locker (as per the instructions) was so sticky after sitting on my work bench for 3 weeks, that it took the weight of the Jeep to break it loose. Once both cam gears broke free and the gear oil got worked around they starting ratcheting like they should. I even performed the spin test, as per the instructions, and it all works now.
Yes I decided to start with the front since I was waiting on the parts for the rear. Once I get a break from work/life I’ll tackle the rear.
I also replaced the old u joints with the 5-760x joints as recommended. It was fairly easy with a shop press. I would air on the side of caution using the press though. If you happen to let a needle bearing fall down and get pressed in between the cap and the u joint end it will blow the cap out. 
I ruined a set and had to buy an extra. If you clean the ears out good the caps should glide right in like a hot knife through butter when using a press. If you have to bear down on the press something is not right.
I ruined a set and had to buy an extra. If you clean the ears out good the caps should glide right in like a hot knife through butter when using a press. If you have to bear down on the press something is not right.
Jeeper_Creeper
Member
OK, so if you’ve changed the front and not the rear, does that mean you Have a different gear ration in the front now?
7/16 to 3/8 bolt sleeve spacers from Yukon. I think I read somewhere that some TJ models use the larger 7/16 holes in the ring gear. If that’s true then you could avoid the spacers by purchasing the larger 7/16 bolt holed ring gear. Those dang sleeves aren‘t cheap. Cost me $90 for all ten of them! 
I have been going through the gear “break in” over the past few days and the Jeep drives great. So far it has been just as many have described here on this forum. Virtually undetectable. You hear a faint clicking/ratcheting when turning but it is hardly noticeable with the windows up. You can’t even hear it over the motor if you’re on the throttle.
Last edited:
Looks like your TJ is coming along nicely.
So life happened and I have been so busy with work that I decided to pay the local gear shop to install the gears/locker in the rear. I just got it home and the swap was WELL worth it! I got 5th gear back and actually have a little pep in the ole’ Jeep now. I don’t know how guys drive around with 3.08 gears. I was fortunate to have 3.73’s and it was still a dawg on the hwy. Now it feels like a whole new Jeep!
Second note: The Detroit Locker in the rear has GOOD road manners. I can’t hear it nor do I notice it while driving really. It took me about 15 minutes of driving around town to figure out what it liked and didn’t like. Taking sharp turns while on the gas will cause it to load and unload but it’s not that bad, just some bangin around in the rear. You learn to clutch around tight turns more often.
Second note: The Detroit Locker in the rear has GOOD road manners. I can’t hear it nor do I notice it while driving really. It took me about 15 minutes of driving around town to figure out what it liked and didn’t like. Taking sharp turns while on the gas will cause it to load and unload but it’s not that bad, just some bangin around in the rear. You learn to clutch around tight turns more often.
Last edited:
Also I found this in my box of parts returned to me by the gear shop. It’s a Detroit TrueTrac. Funny because I was really close to buying a TrueTrac over the Detroit Locker because of the stigma that follows the Locker’s road manners. Well I’m glad I listened to the advice of some of the other members on this forum. The locker has good road manners.
The TrueTrac is 100% invisible as I have been driving it for a year and half and never knew I had one in it. I will say that I‘m glad I went with the locker because I know I’ve been stuck before and the rear was high sided and the free wheel was just spinning. I think the TrueTrac is great for snow and ice, and ok for light to moderate wheeling, but it doesn’t offer the kind of performance I want when wheeling.
The positive to finding this in the rear is now I can offset some of the costs of the gear swap by selling the TrueTrac.
The TrueTrac is 100% invisible as I have been driving it for a year and half and never knew I had one in it. I will say that I‘m glad I went with the locker because I know I’ve been stuck before and the rear was high sided and the free wheel was just spinning. I think the TrueTrac is great for snow and ice, and ok for light to moderate wheeling, but it doesn’t offer the kind of performance I want when wheeling.
The positive to finding this in the rear is now I can offset some of the costs of the gear swap by selling the TrueTrac.
Last edited:
Been a while since I’ve posted. Life got busy. Covid hit and I was working in the medical field at the time, I changed careers to get closer to home, and last but not least, my wife and I had our first child. Needless to say the Jeep got put on the back burner. I‘ll try to cover the few things I’ve done with the Jeep most recently.
I replaced the 2” hockey puck spring spacers with OME 2“ springs. I also added their .5” spacer to level out the front just a touch. I replaced the factory front shocks with Ranchos and replaced the sway bar end links with JKS quicker disconnect. While I was cycling the suspension I realized the track bar is making contact with the front diff cover. I don’t need much for clearance so my plan is to take the track bar off and put a slight bend in it using a press. I wish I would have read more on track bars before I bought this one. I now know there are only a few that will clear without modification. . . Rock Krawler is not one of them. 
I failed to mention that I added a 1” body lift while adding the other stuff too. I have discovered after putting my body lift on that there Is a little bit of interference with the shifter, especially reverse. I may have to go ahead and put a MM lift to get rid of that. My question is if I do that do I have to do a “tummy tuck” or will I have to put some sort of spacer between the original skid plate and the raised tranny?
I just ordered 1” motor mounts. After driving with the body lift I don’t like how the shifter feels. It pops out of reverse which was never a problem before. I also don’t like that it shortened up my shifter. It’s not as comfortable we’re it is now. I should have purchased them along with the body lift and installed them all in one go. . . oh well, you live and you learn.
Got a good deal on some used M/T classic aluminum wheels! I’ve wanted to upgrade from the old steel wheels I have now. The wheels were badly oxidized and corroded so I bought them with the intent of painting them flat black. Here is a before picture.
Similar threads
