Another nice surprise: Spicer u-joints

[AndyG]

Here's a cool one -

I regeared my 03 Rubicon 5 speed Manual to 4:56 for 33" tires .

In the process, I noticed my u joints we're in bad shape (dry) , especially the front . I removed the front drive shaft , and have been running the rear only as I sorted out the details from the re gear ( noises , pinion slop, Rubicon Locker sensor pin grief )

I thought that might make it smoother anyway since it eliminated some rotating mass .

So I pick up the driveshaft today , all new Spicer triple sealed joints that Jerry and Chris suggested , plus they rebuilt the double cardan joint (or whatever it is you do to that)

Holy Cow. I simply can't believe how smooth the Jeep is .

I realize things can get in our heads , and sometimes we want things better so bad we imagine they are , but this is noticeable. I even had my company mechanic drive it to see if I was just imagining it .

I'm impressed.

 

[Mike_H]

This is encouraging. I have all the parts to rebuild my front shaft as well. Next step will be new unit bearings, Ball Joints, and the front axle U-joints.

 

[AndyG]

It gets better as you go .

That driveline can send a lot of vibration out.

No vehicle made in the last 15-20 years allows the driver to see, hear and feel so much of what it does ..the front differential is close to your feet , the drive shaft below you , you sit on the rear , the top may be off, .doors off, you can watch the front tires as you drive , etc.

These vehicles can still be made really good .

For all the things people cuss them about , they are simple , straight forward and pretty easy to deal with compared to a lot of modern machines .

 

[RaymondT]

Spicer u-joints are not expensive either. Amazon.com or Denny's driveshaft. Easy to change using sockets, a 3lb mini-sledge, and careful use of force on a hard, unyielding surface such as a vice or concrete protected with a piece of hardwood. I use a Dremel with a mini wire-wheel to dress the grooves and bores. Don't forget a light coating of grease in the bores before you seat the caps. That way, the caps will be easier to loosen when you rap the yoke ears. When the job is done properly, the yoke needs to swivel freely throughout it's range.

 

[AndyG]

Some people contend that a U-joint should insert almost by hand... As in the holes in the yolk should be that clean and smooth.

I have decided to carry a small plastic box of assorted Driveline components such as straps and u-bolts in case of emergency .

At the minimum someone that does goes off road needs to be equipped to remove a drive shaft in the event of a component failure.

As far as the factory U joints that are put in with the liquid Teflon inserts...those won't come out except with extreme heat is seems.

 

[glwood]

Here's a cool one -

I regeared my 03 Rubicon 5 speed Manual to 4:56 for 33" tires .

In the process, I noticed my u joints we're in bad shape (dry) , especially the front . I removed the front drive shaft , and have been running the rear only as I sorted out the details from the re gear ( noises , pinion slop, Rubicon Locker sensor pin grief )

I thought that might make it smoother anyway since it eliminated some rotating mass .

So I pick up the driveshaft today , all new Spicer triple sealed joints that Jerry and Chris suggested , plus they rebuilt the double cardan joint (or whatever it is you do to that)

Holy Cow. I simply can't believe how smooth the Jeep is .

I realize things can get in our heads , and sometimes we want things better so bad we imagine they are , but this is noticeable. I even had my company mechanic drive it to see if I was just imagining it .

I'm impressed.

SO did you get the front locker pin situation ironed out, since you are running the front drive shaft again?

 

[AndyG]

SO did you get the front locker pin situation ironed out, since you are running the front drive shaft again?

Well I didn't get it ironed out but I got it out... I simply carefully removed the locker sensor pin and it's attached wiring harness and put in a short oil drain plug.

Without any question if the locker pin is not extended and does not grab the lip ,it will be behind it and will prevent full locker disengagement ...which is scary stuff.

The reason the pin isn't in , is I just wanted to get it back going and see where I stood , before going into the front carrier again .

A good example is my u joints being dry gave me a good idea that my steering knuckles may be as well, so I may wait and inspect it at 1000 miles , change the knuckles and drop the carrier then .

It seemed I ran into so many things I needed to close some open loops , like my front cardan joint started popping after u joints went in .

What most suprised me is it is smoother with the front driveshaft in than without . Still scratching my head on that .