I like 35’s on 17’s.
But really, better stopping power with 17” brakes if you ever decided to upgrade to the Vanco Big Brake System. It just allows more room for growth. Of course, 15’s would probably be fine.
But really, better stopping power with 17” brakes if you ever decided to upgrade to the Vanco Big Brake System. It just allows more room for growth. Of course, 15’s would probably be fine.
okay so run some 33's under a 4" lift for now so I only lift it once and ill get a good kit so ill probable just be doing shocks when I want 35's seems like the plan. Also I have a dana 30 and 35 id love some 44's but don't think that's in the budget unless I really want it to be I was just going to regear and get a cheap spartan lunchbox locker for now since I planned on swapping them. should I just go for it and do 44's now? then all id need is more HP under the hood (other than the small stuff)
Gotcha, yeah ive always loved the look of 35x12.5's on 15x8 wheels depending on the tiresI like 35’s on 17’s.
Won’t even need new shocks if you go from a 4” suspension lift to a 4” +1”. You can use the same one’s. See what I mean by this is a build with room to grow? The body lift lifts the tub off of the frame and the shock mounts are attached to the frame, so there is no change there with a body lift. Can you change shocks? Yes, you can do that to get more travel, etc..., but it’s not necessary. This is a build with room to grow.
The Dana 30 should be fine in the front with 35’s and a lunchbox locker. The Dana 35 should be converted into a Super35, or find a Dana 44. But you can do that when you go to 35’s.
Re-gear, yes, to what? If you’re final goal is 35, re-gear for that.
This is good advice. I’m saving you tons of money. You should be sending me a check for this. But I’ll take your armed service, and I appreciate it!
Yeah I guess the budget has gone up a little and what all is in a Super35? just chromoly shafts? and I was going to a 4.88 but I think 5.13 would be the way to go for 35's I did that math a few weeks ago so I might be off a little. I have seen nothing but bad news with 35's on a dana 35 but that's just me reading no real experience with that
If you are going to put 33s under it at first i would regear for 35s.
Assuming that you have the 4 cylinder that is in your profile. 33s will kill the power without a regear. (My opinion) others might disagree with me.
You can get away with regearing for 35s and still runing 33s. It might be much better than stock gears depending on what your gear ratio is now.
That makes sense and now with stock gears and 31's she can only get up to 65 until I hit a down hill so that would be nice its my daily for a couple more years im guessing.
Basically the kit comes with upgraded shafts (1541H, not Chromoly, you don’t want 4360 Chromoly shafts for a 35, you want the 1541H). It also comes with a locker. Revolution sells the best kit for about $1000.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071927QDH/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Are you still in AZ. I ask because @ac_ had a local shop build a ford 8.8 with gears and elocker for around 2325. If you did that install is just bolting it to the jeep and attaching the brakes.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/look-what-big-pappa-just-brought-home.13181/
I wish, ill be doing this in Louisiana but moving back to AZ in a year, I contacted a really good shop in Louisiana but im not sure on their pricing yet
Vanco makes a BBK for 15" wheels, but IMO, 35's on 15" wheels just looks too balloon like to me, so I'd agree with @JMT on 17's. More money for rubber though, and fewer "C" load range tire options.
If your end goal is 35's, then definitely do a 4" short arm lift right out of the gate. Consider good quality adjustable control arms like Currie/Savvy or Metal Cloak, adjustable track bars front and rear, and just adjust your bump stops as your graduate forward on tire size. If budget allows, you should do a SYE/DC drive shaft and get that over with so you don't have to drop the TC skid to eliminate vibes.
If your end goal is 35's, then definitely do a 4" short arm lift right out of the gate. Consider good quality adjustable control arms like Currie/Savvy or Metal Cloak, adjustable track bars front and rear, and just adjust your bump stops as your graduate forward on tire size. If budget allows, you should do a SYE/DC drive shaft and get that over with so you don't have to drop the TC skid to eliminate vibes.
I guess ill look into some 17" wheels when I can put 35's on and just run my 15's with 33's for now. lots of great info I appreciate it! ill spend some time looking up all of those lift options going with a 4" short arm for sure. Thanks!
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