ARB Bulkhead Fitting Recomendations?

chudlet

chudlet

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I need to run air lines from my ARB manifold to my new lockers. The solenoids come with the easy press in fittings below (yellow). The diff bulkhead fitting kits come with both the easy press in fittings and the ferule capture setup (green).

What are the pros and cons of going either way at the differential? Any experience out there to go with or stay away from one or the other? Is the 90* setup ok to use or better to go straight in from the top?



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I have rubi lockers so some 3/16" emissions hose pressed over barb fittings worked to hold the 5-6 psi at the manifold. Once arbs are in I'll need to run the arb fitting kits.
 
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oh yeah when I had a Rubi locker in my CJ5 I think I held the hose on with a zip tie :ROFLMAO:
 
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I had arb locker installed when I got the axles regeared, the shop put them in at with the 90s. When I installed the Savvy midarm I switched to having them come straight out the top, I don't think it makes a performance deference, the main reason would be to have the line run as cleanly as possible.

I used the easy press in style circled in yellow (arb fitting)
 
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Rickyd said:
I have rubi lockers so some 3/16" emissions hose pressed over barb fittings worked to hold the 5-6 psi at the manifold. Once arbs are in I'll need to run the arb fitting kits.
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You are running rubi lockers from your ARB? How did you get the pressure down to 5-6 psi? Seems thats a pretty precise number. Asking because someday my locker pumps may give out and they are impossible to get. You probably know that.
 
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Nick21 said:
I had arb locker installed when I got the axles regeared, the shop put them in at with the 90s. When I installed the Savvy midarm I switched to having them come straight out the top, I don't think it makes a performance deference, the main reason would be to have the line run as cleanly as possible.

I used the easy press in style circled in yellow (arb fitting)
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Easy is good for me. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't shooting myself in the foot later on.
 
Viking Jeeper said:
You are running rubi lockers from your ARB? How did you get the pressure down to 5-6 psi? Seems thats a pretty precise number. Asking because someday my locker pumps may give out and they are impossible to get. You probably know that.
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Post in thread 'Project Basketcase!' https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/project-basketcase.67755/post-1258036

Low pressure regulator to an aluminum manifold with the arb solenoids on it.i put a 10 psi blow off valve on there as a saftey measure. It works great.
 
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chudlet said:
I need to run air lines from my ARB manifold to my new lockers. The solenoids come with the easy press in fittings below (yellow). The diff bulkhead fitting kits come with both the easy press in fittings and the ferule capture setup (green).

What are the pros and cons of going either way at the differential? Any experience out there to go with or stay away from one or the other? Is the 90* setup ok to use or better to go straight in from the top?



View attachment 498522
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They give you two options depending on which way you want your line to go. The newer 6mm black air line isn't as flexible as the old 5mm light blue line. The banjo fitting gives you the option to point it where you want whereas the other is straight up.

The fitting circled in yellow is a quick disconnect. The fittings for the blue lines are orange. This allows you to remove the hose and cut some off if necessary (due to damage) and push it right back in. When you run your line, keep the extra coiled up by the compressor. The fitting circled in green isn't a press fitting, rather it's a compression fitting.
 
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hosejockey61 said:
They give you two options depending on which way you want your line to go. The newer 6mm black air line isn't as flexible as the old 5mm light blue line. The banjo fitting gives you the option to point it where you want whereas the other is straight up.

The fitting circled in yellow is a quick disconnect. The fittings for the blue lines are orange. This allows you to remove the hose and cut some off if necessary (due to damage) and push it right back in. When you run your line, keep the extra coiled up by the compressor. The fitting circled in green isn't a press fitting, rather it's a compression fitting.
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ok, so the QD fitting is fine, use the direction (90 or not) that provides the least stress on the line and leave a service loop on top.

I have the compressor on a More Mount and the ARB manifold on the anti-skid tray. From reading exchanges between you and @mrblaine, running the air line from the anti-skid tray down the outside of the upper control arm keeping away from heat and over to the front diff leaving some slack at each joint for movement seems to be the best path for the air line? Similar for the rear keeping it zip tied up to the rest of the lines along the frame.

Any other advice?
 
chudlet said:
ok, so the QD fitting is fine, use the direction (90 or not) that provides the least stress on the line and leave a service loop on top.

I have the compressor on a More Mount and the ARB manifold on the anti-skid tray. From reading exchanges between you and @mrblaine, running the air line from the anti-skid tray down the outside of the upper control arm keeping away from heat and over to the front diff leaving some slack at each joint for movement seems to be the best path for the air line? Similar for the rear keeping it zip tied up to the rest of the lines along the frame.

Any other advice?
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I'd normally tell you not to kink the line but you could probably pick up the axle with that black stuff and not hurt it.
 
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LOL noted. don't kink and air line and try to not to perform recovery using just the air line.
 
The only other thing I would add is to not overtighten the set screw on the O ring. It compresses around the copper line and will actually start to crush the line restricting air flow as well as damage the O ring. Don't use cheap zip ties either.
 
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hosejockey61 said:
The only other thing I would add is to not overtighten the set screw on the O ring. It compresses around the copper line and will actually start to crush the line restricting air flow as well as damage the O ring. Don't use cheap zip ties either.
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I often wonder about zip tie quality and since it's kind of on topic.

What should someone look for when buying bulk zip ties? What brand is good? What brand to avoid? Since they will be used underhood I imagine they tend to get crispy like other plastic.
 
hosejockey61 said:
The only other thing I would add is to not overtighten the set screw on the O ring. It compresses around the copper line and will actually start to crush the line restricting air flow as well as damage the O ring. Don't use cheap zip ties either.
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I don't see a set screw on the bulkhead fitting kit. If your talking about internal to the pumpkin, the gear shop set all that up for me. They left me with the bulkhead fitting poking out the diff with a plug in it to keep debris out and oil in. My job is deciding on using the 90 or not and the feral compression fitting or not and then running the air line. There was a fist full of zip ties that came with the rear locker that I was going to use. Otherwise I have some fairly thick ones that our maintenance department gave me that they use on our heavy machinery.
 
chudlet said:
I don't see a set screw on the bulkhead fitting kit. If your talking about internal to the pumpkin, the gear shop set all that up for me. They left me with the bulkhead fitting poking out the diff with a plug in it to keep debris out and oil in. My job is deciding on using the 90 or not and the feral compression fitting or not and then running the air line. There was a fist full of zip ties that came with the rear locker that I was going to use. Otherwise I have some fairly thick ones that our maintenance department gave me that they use on our heavy machinery.
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Yeah it goes in the actual bulkhead fitting on the outside of the housing. If you look into it, you'll see a phillps set nut and a hole on the middle which is the copper tube.
 
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hosejockey61 said:
The only other thing I would add is to not overtighten the set screw on the O ring. It compresses around the copper line and will actually start to crush the line restricting air flow as well as damage the O ring. Don't use cheap zip ties either.
Click to expand...

We always power up the compressor with that snug and spray it with Windex. Start tightening and quit when it stop leaking.
 
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