ARB Cross Pin Dilema

[Igoo65]

I have an interesting situation. I went to install my ARB locker into my Ford Explorer 8.8 differential. When I opened up the diff and pulled out the LSD I saw a mark on my ring gear that I thought was a broken tooth. I previously had 4.88 gears installed about 2 years ago. I picked up a gear set from US Gear and proceeded to install them with the help of a knowledgeable friend. We got them installed and when I went to remove the cross pin, it hit the inside of the ring gear. I read online that to remedy this problem, you grind away enough of the ring gear to allow the pin to come out. I called US Gear to confirm this and they do not recommend grinding the gear teeth and suggested a notched cross pin. I then called ARB to confirm using a notched pin and they recommend in their instructions to grind the gears and do not recommend using a notched cross pin. The other route to go, is to install a c-clip eliminator kit. Which I have read on here and other forums, that they are unnecessary do to the thickness of the 31 spline shaft and that if they do break, the disc brake caliper will keep the axle in. After researching this I came to the conclusion that there was nothing wrong with my previous ring and pinion and should have left well enough alone. I guess my question is, what would you guys do to handle this? Grind, notched pin or c-clip eliminator? If anyone needs to see pictures, I can add them.
Thanks,
Igoo65

 

[tworley]

The little bit of research I found says to grind a tooth on the ring gear.

How much needs to come off for you to remove the pin?

 

[Igoo65]

The little bit of research I found says to grind a tooth on the ring gear.

How much needs to come off for you to remove the pin?

I don't think very much. I will probably do this as I need to get my Jeep up and running. I need to get the new gears broken in before the April Phools run. It threw me for a little bit when US gear said not to grind their gears, but I think that is so someone doesn't go overboard and grind a whole tooth off and then blame the company when they break.
Igoo65

 

[tworley]

I don't think very much. I will probably do this as I need to get my Jeep up and running. I need to get the new gears broken in before the April Phools run. It threw me for a little bit when US gear said not to grind their gears, but I think that is so someone doesn't go overboard and grind a whole tooth off and then blame the company when they break.
Igoo65

That would make sense...

 

[Igoo65]

That would make sense...

Are you ready to go for the 4th?

 

[tworley]

Are you ready to go for the 4th?

Not quite. My ARB compressor isnt working. I have a new pressure switch to install, I just havent had time to get to it. I need to set my front bumpstops (hopefully by moving the upper mount), I also have the engine skid from savvy sitting in the garage. I really just need a long day to address everything.

 

[Igoo65]

I hear ya! I need to wrap up this rear diff and get some miles on it. I was going to do control arms, but I don't think that is going to happen.

 

[Igoo65]

Well here is some news on my dilema. While pulling the ARB out the copper air tube snapped off at the base. Yes I'm pissed. I am not impressed with this ARB. I barley moved the copper tube when I was installing it through the differential housing. I installed a Yukon Zip locker in my Dana 30 and never had a problem with the air tube and I bent that thing all over the place. If this is ARB quality, I am not impressed. The bad thing now is will ARB back there product and is it going to take another week to get one? It is not looking good for April 4th! If they don't back it, what is everyone's opinion on installing a Detroit locker? Is anyone using a Detroit in their read diff? Even better if you have one in a Ford 8.8.

 

[Rick Flair]

Well here is some news on my dilema. While pulling the ARB out the copper air tube snapped off at the base. Yes I'm pissed. I am not impressed with this ARB. I barley moved the copper tube when I was installing it through the differential housing. I installed a Yukon Zip locker in my Dana 30 and never had a problem with the air tube and I bent that thing all over the place. If this is ARB quality, I am not impressed. The bad thing now is will ARB back there product and is it going to take another week to get one? It is not looking good for April 4th! If they don't back it, what is everyone's opinion on installing a Detroit locker? Is anyone using a Detroit in their read diff? Even better if you have one in a Ford 8.8.

Done 6 ARB’s in my rigs and never had a problem. My experience is they stand behind their products, but never had to deal with a locker issue. In fact, I still have my entire “repair kit” in my tool box that I never used and haven’t had a ARB locker in 12 years...

 

[Rob5589]

I have ground down many a tooth to clear the crosspin. Not an issue. Take the min necessary for the pin to clear.

 

[tworley]

Ouch! The seal housing isn't exactly cheap either. When installing mine, I remember grabbing the copper line at the base to stabilize it and moving the rest carefully. Is there enough material left for you to try and braze a repair?

 

[Igoo65]

The line snapper off at the base. I am going to call Predator 4x4 where I bought it and see if the warranty will cover it. It sucks because all of this has severely altered my plans to go wheeling!

 

[mrblaine]

Well here is some news on my dilema. While pulling the ARB out the copper air tube snapped off at the base. Yes I'm pissed. I am not impressed with this ARB. I barley moved the copper tube when I was installing it through the differential housing. I installed a Yukon Zip locker in my Dana 30 and never had a problem with the air tube and I bent that thing all over the place. If this is ARB quality, I am not impressed. The bad thing now is will ARB back there product and is it going to take another week to get one? It is not looking good for April 4th! If they don't back it, what is everyone's opinion on installing a Detroit locker? Is anyone using a Detroit in their read diff? Even better if you have one in a Ford 8.8.

I wish ya'll wouldn't do that shit. That isn't ARB's quality. That is due to someone work hardening the line to the point it got brittle and then snapped off. Same will happen to the Zip if you bend the line too much and don't take care not to let the bending happen right where it is brazed into the shift collar.

Drop the collar with line in a flat rate box and send it to me. I can drill it out, cut the line square and braze it into the collar for you.

 

[mrblaine]

Ouch! The seal housing isn't exactly cheap either. When installing mine, I remember grabbing the copper line at the base to stabilize it and moving the rest carefully. Is there enough material left for you to try and braze a repair?

Doesn't matter if there is enough line. You can braze the existing into the collar and then add a piece of line between the two ends to get the correct length.

 

[Igoo65]

Thanks Mr. Blaine!

 

[Igoo65]

@Mr. Blaine,
Thank you for the offer to fix my ARB locker. I called the 4x4 shop that I purchase it from and they said they would braze the copper tube back on. I should have it back tonight and I can get it installed and start with the break in. Once again thank you for the offer!
Igoo65

 

[jjvw]

Glad it's coming together. Three more weeks!

 

[Igoo65]

I just picked up my locker from Predator 4x4. They rebrazed the copper tube and did it for free! I thought that was pretty cool of them! If anyone is in Colorado Springs, you may want to check them out!
Thanks Doug and Mike for the words of wisdom about how to break the gears in. I am going to install it tonight and get to breaking everything in.
Looks like I may make the April Phools run after all! Here's knocking on wood!


Igoo65