Are these LCAs holding up my axle swap?

BlackJeep

BlackJeep

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I'm in the middle of swapping my stock axle to a Dana 30 HP and cannot for the life of me get my springs in and LCAs bolted up at the same time. I had the axle aligned and loosely bolted in, managed to get the passenger side spring in, but found there was no way in hell the driver's side of the axle would then drop anywhere near where I needed it to get that spring in. Finally I unbolted the LCA on the driver's side, which caused the axle to drop to where I needed it but also move back about 1". I got the spring in, but then there was no way in hell the LCA would line back up with the bolt hole in the lower mount. Fast forward a few hours of yelling at it, a night's sleep, and I decided to use my brain to work the problem, which is when I discovered this:

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have no idea who makes these lower arms. They're beefy as hell and went in about 12 years ago when I bought a lift second-hand in law school because I couldn't afford anything else. Never noticed an issue before but it appears that they're too tall and are interfering with the axle when it tries to drop. When the shock mount contacts the top of the LCA, the axle can either roll forward (which it can't with the UCA in) or can't drop any further.

Anybody had this problem? Is there a solution other than new control arms? I really didn't intend to add adjustable lowers at this point, but it looks like I may need to just to create more clearance between the axle and control arm. Any other suggestions?

Btw: the lift is a Zone offroad combo kit with a 3" suspension lift, 1.25" BL, and 1" MML. The BL and MML are installed (mostly... ask me why I hate the location of the AC compressor). Steering is all removed, so the only parts in the axle equation are the control arms and springs.
 
I just swapped out the front and rear axle in my Jeep, I feel your pain. Ratchet straps were the only way i was able to get them in. Jacks on either side for up and down, and ratchet straps on either side for front to back. And a second set of hands. I didn't use spring compressors. Good luck!
 
From the threads I'd read lots of folks seemed to be able to get springs in and out without compressors (example: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/steps-for-replacing-front-coil-springs.13739/page-2 ). My problem is with all 4 control arms in place the axle won't drop as much as think it should, apparently the lower control arm is interfering by contacting the shock mount. I should've taken a picture from further away (I'm at work, but best I've got for now is below). My question is: should there be contact between the LCA and the shock mount before the axle is dropped far enough to get the spring out? If not, it looks like the mystery LCAs are too "tall" (2.5" height) and causing interference.

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Spring compressors are available at most auto parts store for free rental. The control arms are super easy to put in with no load from the springs. Then just compress and drop the springs in. Unless you live 100 miles from the auto parts store you'll save time just getting the tool. Those control arms look stock height, or at least close to what mine are. Mine don't go in without a compressor and they are only 1-2" over stock.

This is a perfect opportunity to tell your spouse you need new control arms.
 
Like @pagrey said you will need a spring compressor. My old Rubicon express springs would go in and out easily but that meant they could also do that on the trail. My new currie 4" lift springs need a spring compressor to get in and out. PITA but better then losing a spring when fully flexed on a trail.
 
In daily life, the control arm interfering with it's mount will only occur if the extended shock allows it. Other than that, it is only a nuisance when installing a spring.

For some frame of reference, I recall the stock suspension droops to about 24-25" between the shock mounts before the stock lower arm binds against the mount. If your current shock doesn't extend this far, it doesn't matter.
 
Thanks guys... spring compressors it is. I'll pick them up when I return the loaner ball joint press to AZ this week.
 
BlackJeep said:
I bought a lift second-hand in law school...
Click to expand...


Wait! A lawyer that has a TJ? I might have to rethink my opinion of lawyers.

I just put my 2.5" springs in without a compressor. I think it will depend upon many factors, size of lift/spring, control arms, sway bar disconnected, etc. You may need one, you may not (in general, it seems you do need one).

Back to your control arms though. You should definitely check for clearance there after you get it back together. With correct bumpstops, it may never be a factor.
 
I installed 4" lift springs this weekend. The PO installed Rubicon Express lower control arms and I had the same problem you did. I watched all the videos and read all the instructions to install 4" lift springs. After about a day of nasty words, I went to O'reillys and rented a spring compressor. I might say that one front spring took all day and the last 3 took about 2 hours. Do yourself a favor and get a spring compressor! Good Luck!
 
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I think I recall reading here a while back that someone used a grinder or rotary file to clearance the mount just enough so the axle could droop more.
 
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I have the same problem on my lift, what is weird, is the drivers side would drop 3 inches more than the passenger side. I think that this axle is bent a little, causing more than a problem or 2 with this temporary install.
 
Beach_vibes said:
I used a grinder to eliminate the interference. The shock sets my droop limit. I also spent a lot of time scratching my head and wondering what was going on here.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I may try that (as much as I hate to ruin my fancy new axle paint job)... exactly the solution I need, and a great free mod that improves on the original design.

Oh... and I can relate to the sitting around scratching my head part... wasted hours...
 
dbbd1 said:
Wait! A lawyer that has a TJ? I might have to rethink my opinion of lawyers.

I just put my 2.5" springs in without a compressor. I think it will depend upon many factors, size of lift/spring, control arms, sway bar disconnected, etc. You may need one, you may not (in general, it seems you do need one).

Back to your control arms though. You should definitely check for clearance there after you get it back together. With correct bumpstops, it may never be a factor.
Click to expand...

Lawyers aren't all bad, they're just all stressed out. You know your profession is F'd up when you think of owning a 20 year old TJ as relaxing.
 
Just a note: any time you work with compressed springs be very careful; the amount of force they can deliver if they suddenly slip out of whatever has them in compression can be immense, and highly injurious. Never place your body (especially your knogin) in possible harms way...consider any space in-line with the spring to be the same as in-line with the barrel of a loaded gun.
 
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