Axle dillema

astjp2

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So I have picked up several front axles that I can put into the LJ. I am planning on just trail riding with the occasional trip to Moab. I have 12" fox shocks that I have to yet install, planning on keeping stock type steering and my front has a few problems so it needs replaced. The rear is the 44 and I have a set of 4.56 gears to put in it but I am not 100% set on using it.
so this is what I have in my axle pile:
1. HP 30, it has bad inner C's and I have a CJ 30 that I can rob the inner C's and outer knuckles with 6 bolt lock out to install on it. Also needs gears and a locker.
2. HP 30, have a big brake kit for it, needs gears and locker installed.
3. HP 44, I have everything to weld TJ brackets onto it and it will need gears and locker
4. HP 60, king pin and will need narrowed, gears, brackets, and a locker

Rear,
1 Original 44, needs gears and locker and full rebuild
2. 1974 19 spline dana 60 rear, needs to be converted to TJ brackets to be used and gears and locker with at least 30 spline shafts

so I am tired of doing temporary fixes and modifications, I only want to do this once. I am leaning towards the 30 with the big brake kit, but I am open to suggestions.

tim
 
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33's is what I am planning on staying with and stock shafts for now, eventually a tummy tuck, 2 speed atlas and a 4.6 stroker...4 " suspension 1-1/4" BL
 
Sounds similar to mine. 33's, Dana 44 rear with locker, HP30 open (no money for a locker right now), chromoly shafts in both axles. The u joint ears are the weak point in stock front shafts so I'd recommend at least chromoly's for the front.

It all depends on how much fab work you want to put into the axles. I went with Dana 44 and HP30 because they are a no fuss bolt in affair and durable for average wheeling on 33's.
 
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I would stick with the factory rear 44 and either the hp 30 or 44 front. The 60’s would be dragging constantly with only 33” tires. I have a HP 60 rear and constantly drag it with 37”s there would be no ground clearance with 33”s.
 
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Do the easiest, you're not going to get anymore shaft strength with any of those options that you have to do a bunch of fab work. Do the 30 with brake kit, and keep the TJ 44 rear. Get good shafts front and rear, lock and gear them, and call it good.
 
Yep, 33" tires, keep it all bolt in with cromo's. I'm more intrested in the plan for putting 12" travel shocks on a rig only running 33's
 
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Also, won't the Dana 60s have a different bolt pattern? If so, that means new rims added to the cost of the swap...
Yeah, 60s are 8 bolt, the 44 I have is 6 bolt which I could match with a rodeo rear, which I have done before unless I run the 70's dodge unit bearings, but I would really like to have lock outs if I am going to upgrade.
 
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Yep, 33" tires, keep it all bolt in with cromo's. I'm more intrested in the plan for putting 12" travel shocks on a rig only running 33's
So what do you know that I am missing with the shocks? I have a lot of ruts on the roads going out to my Nevada property, good travel shocks will help make the trip more enjoyable. I dont see the need for anything larger than 33's for where I am going but there is enough lift on the LJ now to accommodate 35's with the wheels I have.
 
So what do you know that I am missing with the shocks? I have a lot of ruts on the roads going out to my Nevada property, good travel shocks will help make the trip more enjoyable. I dont see the need for anything larger than 33's for where I am going but there is enough lift on the LJ now to accommodate 35's with the wheels I have.

I apologize for sounding like a smart ass, What lift springs are you using?

If you set up a 12" travel shock to match a 2" bumpstop with extended towers under a stock or flat fender, your spring free length will need to be 23" there are only few springs that can accommodate that. Currie 4" are 22.5, 3.5" metal cloak are 22.5" Rubicon Express 5.5" are 23" mc 4.5 and 6" are 24.5".
Other than that, the masses are 20" for a 4" front lift spring which will barely accommodate a 15" collapsed, 24.5" extended length shock. If you bolt on a 18/30" shock in stock mounts, you will have the worst ride of you life on rough terrain and the springs will be able to fall out.

The rear springs need to be 16" to set up with a 2" bumpstop and outboard 12" travel shocks.

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I have the 5.5 RE springs and about 3" of bump and I will have a 1.25 BL when it is done.
 
I have the 5.5 RE springs and about 3" of bump and I will have a 1.25 BL when it is done.
The 23" freelength spring gets loose with a 27" extended length shock in factory mounts.

Re uses a 16.5/28.5" shock in the 5.5" long arm relying on the 3" bumpstop to keep it in.
 
I picked up the springs used, probably more like a 4-4.5” lift, I have a pair of poly and a pair of barnes shock mounts, which are almost identical, now I just need some time this spring to install everything.
 
My dana 30 elocker showed up yesterday, $658 from 4wheel parts, the only problem is that it is a 30 spline, now I need shafts and gears so I can start building my HP30...
 
That's cheap. I didn't realize they went that cheap. I've been going ARB since I like having an air compressor on board.
 
Is there a concensus on 30 spline to the diff and 27 spline stub shafts or run 30 spline on the outters as well? What else is a good idea for builds 35" tire size and below? I'm going to be in this boat myself very soon.

I'm rebuilding a Dana 35 at the moment and I'm going with the super 35 kit with ARB essentially from revolution gears. Sooner or later I'm gonna do the Dana 30 as well. I've got a Dana 30 HP in my zj with the right gearing I'm gonna steal for the swap. I don't like using momentum too much so LP vs HP doesn't make much difference to me, but I don't think I want to build (2) axles for ~ $1,500 each at the moment. I've pretty much got everything for the Dana 35 and I think I'll save the other $1,500 for another day.
 
I prefer 27 spline upfront. They are strong enough as a chromoly shaft and if you do happen to break one, you can easily slide in a stock one and be on your way.
 
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That makes sense. Where do they tend to break anyway?

The only time I broke something in a front axle assembly it was a broken u-joint and from then on I tried to note guys talking about designing where it should fail. Of course that u-joint bent the ears on the stub shaft.