Dana 30 and Dana 44 axle upgrades: What am I missing?

Just Chillin

Just Chillin

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May 30, 2021
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Valencia, CA
My plan is to make this LJ more capable and durable. I plan on moderate wheeling, not into the extreme stuff. Tires are 31s eventually will go to 33s.

For the Dana 30 front end, I have:
ARB Air Locker
RGA 30 spline axles with the 1350 joints
Gears
Master install kit
Inner axle seals
Ball joints
Still need (want) Big Brake kit to fit the larger 1350 joints and obviously the better brakes
Still need Set up bearings
What else am I missing?

For the Dana 44 rear end, I have:
ARB Air Locker
Gears
Master install kit
Still need Set up bearings

I have not installed any of the above. Wanted to make sure I had what I needed before I take the Jeep apart.

Thanks for the help.
 
There is a lot of debate about the front axle. From using stock and beefing it to HP30 and Dana 44. You will probably be ok if you are not going bigger than 33's. Chromo axle shafts will help too.
 
For the front I'd stay with aftermarket 27 spline 4340 shafts, there's no need for or benefit to 30 spline shafts for 33's or even 35's. They seldom see more than about 50% of the load seen by the rear shafts.

Converting the front shafts to 30 splines is not easy or inexpensive. Not only do you need a 30 spline carrier, you need 30 spline hubs too. The only 30 spline hubs I'm aware of are manual hubs you'd have to convert to.
 
My front dana 30 has been fine on 35s with chromo shafts and a locker. Its never been a worry of mine while wheeling.

Currie currectlync, control arm skids for the front, OTK setup for the front, barnett or alloy cover, lubelocker for the rear
 
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Apologize for not being clear. I have a complete suspension plus those parts listed above. My plan is to pull both axles and suspension. Install the new suspension. Put the axles on stands. Install gears/lockers and so on.

It would be a bummer if I get it all apart to find out I need a part that's a month away.

So any help or suggestions for things that should be replaced while I'm in the axles or have them out would be greatly appreciated.
 
Kid Mechanic said:
Are you installing new bearing? Your old bearings become your setup kit. Or a cheap set to sacrifice, hit up a local shop for some throw aways they might have.
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Thanks for the idea. I am probably too cautious to use the old ones. I wouldn't know how to account for the wear. However, if I can't get the new ones, then I will be using them.
 
J Harding said:
Thanks for the idea. I am probably too cautious to use the old ones. I wouldn't know how to account for the wear. However, if I can't get the new ones, then I will be using them.
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Using the old bearings is a time-honored way to set up new gears or set the backlash. Using a drill to spin a brake cylinder honing tool inside the old bearing races makes them easy to remove/reinstall while setting the gears up or adjusting the backlash.
 
Jerry Bransford said:
Using the old bearings is a time-honored way to set up new gears or set the backlash. Using a drill to spin a brake cylinder honing tool inside the old bearing races makes them easy to remove/reinstall while setting the gears up or adjusting the backlash.
Click to expand...
Thanks!
 
If you are running stock front upper control arm bushings and they didn't come with your new suspension doing them with the axle out is easier, sorry if that's an obvious one.
 
pagrey said:
If you are running stock front upper control arm bushings and they didn't come with your new suspension doing them with the axle out is easier, sorry if that's an obvious one.
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No. Not an obvious one at all. Thanks so much for the heads up!

That's exactly the feedback I'm looking for.
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
For the front I'd stay with aftermarket 27 spline 4340 shafts, there's no need for or benefit to 30 spline shafts for 33's or even 35's. They seldom see more than about 50% of the load seen by the rear shafts.
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Two of the benefits are the ability to run the Revolution larger u-joints shafts which should never be run in the 27 spline versions nor should that be a product. The second benefit is we've seen far too many 27 spline inner breaks on 35's in places like JV. Start working 35's hard and the 27 spline inners make no since whatsoever.
Jerry Bransford said:
Converting the front shafts to 30 splines is not easy or inexpensive. Not only do you need a 30 spline carrier, you need 30 spline hubs too. The only 30 spline hubs I'm aware of are manual hubs you'd have to convert to.
Click to expand...
You don't need the 30 spline Alloy USA unit bearings or the 30 spline 5 on 5.5 hub kit. The reason is when properly torqued, the splines on the stub shaft don't see the full load since the big flange butts up to the back of the unit bearing and that friction takes a lot of load off the splines.
 
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The Dana 30 passenger side upper control arm mount should be boxed in with a weld in brace. It's just a thin stamped bracket and they have been known to collapse and bend under hard use.

20210725_120422.jpg
 
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