How much power gain by putting a Edelbrock head and roller rockers?
Best engine upgrades for the cost?
- Thread starter Rob T
- Start date
How much power gain by putting a Edelbrock head and roller rockers?
I ordered the ARH long tube headers the other day. Once they get there I’ll post updates in my build thread 
I am very interested in these. Didn't one they existed before. I already have a full 3" costume exhaust by I'm not happy with it at all. I also need to change it up anyways due to a pending tummy tuck.
Depends on a lot of things, but on a bone stock TJ? Probably 20-25hp tops near redline, if that. To many other restrictions. It's a system. Start adding some other bolt ons, maybe more.
I hope everybody on here understands none of these bolt on power mods will matter much in the rpm range where most of our Jeeps live. If you are looking for something that helps push your rig down there highway up a hill going 70 in 5th, none of it will help much at all. Banging it off the limiter running through the gears? Sure, a bit, but it's just for funsies at that point. Maybe for mud slinging too I suppose. It's still never going to be fast, especially compared to most modern cars. Soccer mom's in Hemi Durangos and such. This coming from somebody with a healthy stroker with probably north of 300hp.
If it were me, for any useable power differences combined with a general feeling of it being meaner, I would do a 2.5" exhaust including headers all the way back, a 62mm throttle body (mostly just for the blipability of the throttle), and a custom tune. I was surprised what a difference there was with power down low and part throttle after Ryan sent me the first tune. This was on a stroker running 93 octane though, but he says Jeep left a lot on the table there.
Anything else is going to require pulling the head and getting in to the motor.
TJRick
TJ Enthusiast
For Seafoam, I will respectfully disagree, at least on older vehicles, and when used in the engine oil. I have an '85 sedan with an inline 6 that I drive daily. The oil was always quite dirty and after an oil change, after the first drive, the oil would again be quite dirty. Someone suggested Seafoam, I saw a few vids that tested it, figured I would give it a shot, and used a single bottle for two oil changes.
Amazingly, the somewhat noisy valves are now significantly quieter and this was not even something I was trying for, nor was I really aware of the noise until it was mostly gone. Also, the oil stays clean for most of the cycle of the oil change, and the valve cover, valves, and cam are significantly cleaner. Note that my car has an '80s version of a computer that indicates when I should perform the oil change, using a decreasing number of green lights until you get to the yellow light. I change the oil when I get to the last green or 7k miles, whichever comes sooner, and I have put 14k miles on since the Seafoam treatment.
I have not used Seafoam in the fuel, and I really don't have plans to do so. But to clean up the oil, I can state that it worked very well in my case.
My 4.6 stroker would disagree, but I built it myself. And I get about 250 hp with an elcheapo eBay Chinese header and the pacesetter cat back. Cost was the price of a stock rebuild and a set of crank and rods.
Always used Seafoam in my 2 strokes, "Mechanic in a can" we call it. I have noticed a difference in the TJ's using it, but as @Jerry Bransford stated, spraying water in the intake will break loose the carbon as well.
Meh, it's like six bucks a can and I trusted it for 20+ years in my boats (that I earned a living from).
Sorry I missed this. Those numbers are 87 octane on a bone stock Jeep. I think he has a tune for higher octane with mods. I don't know if CA smog would know if there was an altered tune or not. It would be easy to go back to stock for a few hours a year and then reload the FRP tune.
I never dynoed mine, but the added power is obvious. I did do three back to back 0-60 tests with stock and my tune and my diy tune was about 1.4 seconds faster. The stock tune times ranged from 14.15-14.20 and with my tune 12.75-12.79. All I changed was timing. There is probably some power to be found with fueling changes.
I put Borla headers and AEM ON MY 04 AND IT TOOK 2.5 SECONDS OFF ZERO TO SIXTY. The thing I hate is here in Colorado at 8k the performance is mediocre AND mileage is poor. I tried the Hypertune to no effect.
I'd be concerned that the seafoam broke the sensor that indicates the oil filth factor.
I changed the oil last night, and I tested the existing sensors. No issues-well within the spec. Why would you think Seafoam would break the sensor?
It was somewhat tongue-in-cheek, but if I poured some magic chemical down the throat of my engine and the net effect was that I went twice as many miles and counting without the oil quality sensor telling my my oil was dirty, which is more likely? That the motor doesn't make the oil dirty anymore or that the sensor stopped reporting it accurately? Not that it couldn't still be clean enough, just what is the more likely scenario.
Hmm, I haven't tried the water spray, but I have done what people refer to as a "hot soak" on my old bimmers throughout the years and it seems to work wonders.
Get the engine warmed up, pop a vac hose off the intake somewhere, lightly slurp up the cleaner with it several times until you're half way through the bottle, then submerge it and let it suck the rest of the liquid until it stalls out. Turn it off, reconnect the vac line and let it sit for an hour or two. When you start it back up it'll smoke like a house on fire for about 15 minutes as all the carbon buildup blows out the tailpipe. When the smoke clears up, go take a test drive.
I've done it on several vehicles and it almost always results in a smoother running and idling engine. Not to mention pulling the intake and exhaust on a 30-year-old engine revealed valves so clean you could almost eat off them. No coking at all, and those old bimmers are pretty notorious for the amount of deposits that build up.
Jtow
Majority of the power from the aluminum head and roller rockers is going to be upper rpm greater than 3500 rpm ? do we really need power up there ?
The 4.0 if rebuilt with a bore and stroke is THE BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK period. IDC if it is an 87 octance build if done properly it will dominate over a non boost 4.0 with bolt ons all day long .
I have been through this on the jeep thats my avatar over there.
First stage was a refreshed 258 bottom end with a 7sumthing casting 4.0 head . Mopar valves purple cam cloyes true roller standard rockers. 24 lb injectors
that was 23 years ago. notice that has a return line with a pressure gauge . drove great scrambler on 35s with 4.56s could do 80 mph on I75 in atlanta and still accelrate . I was young but didnt have a deathwish to go faster.
I upgraded that to a stroker kit bottom end and picked up 60hp on the dyno. but I was young and stupid and wanted more
I bet you that stroker motor is still running in someones yeep.
Depends on the year . Roller Rockers reduce friction and heat and do give about 9 more hp on a BUILT stroker motor. Watch some of newcomer racings you tube stuff instead of Lite Brite.
Majority of the power from the aluminum head and roller rockers is going to be upper rpm greater than 3500 rpm ? do we really need power up there ?
The 4.0 if rebuilt with a bore and stroke is THE BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK period. IDC if it is an 87 octance build if done properly it will dominate over a non boost 4.0 with bolt ons all day long .
I have been through this on the jeep thats my avatar over there.
First stage was a refreshed 258 bottom end with a 7sumthing casting 4.0 head . Mopar valves purple cam cloyes true roller standard rockers. 24 lb injectors
that was 23 years ago. notice that has a return line with a pressure gauge . drove great scrambler on 35s with 4.56s could do 80 mph on I75 in atlanta and still accelrate . I was young but didnt have a deathwish to go faster.
I upgraded that to a stroker kit bottom end and picked up 60hp on the dyno. but I was young and stupid and wanted more
I bet you that stroker motor is still running in someones yeep.
Ahh, I see. You were under the impression that I had driven 14k miles on the same engine oil. In my mind, I felt that I had clearly stated that I change the oil every 7k miles, and that it had been 14k miles since the treatment, thus I was counting on basic math and deductive reasoning on the part of others to deduce that I had already changed the oil twice. My bad.
Similar threads
