Best Lift for 32" tires?

jsfoster75

jsfoster75

TJ Enthusiast
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May 2, 2021
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Location
Bluff City, TN
I have a pretty much all-original 2003 Sahara. Not sure what height, but thinking between 2.5 - 3.5" if I can do that without getting into a huge projects.

4-Spd. Automatic 42RLE Transmission
3.73 Rear Axle Ratio
Dana 30/186MM Front Axle
Dana M35/194MM Rear Axle

We do basic off-roading meaning that we don't rock climb and we try to pick pretty smooth trails, this will be 90% for looks and 10% for functionality... My wife is wanting a 4" lift or higher, I'm not sure we need that much...

I have the 30x9.50 R15 wheels, what is the largest tire that I can put on that? Wanting to put either 32's or 34's (34's only if we won't need to regear, etc.)

What do you guys recommend? I don't need lockers, sway bar disconnects, etc... And, my budget is flexible but would like to keep it around $1,000 or so if possible.

Jeep.JPG
 
Any changes to tire size impacts the automatic way more than a manual. That said, you really need to identify the specific tire size you want, then go from there.
 
Irun said:
Any changes to tire size impacts the automatic way more than a manual. That said, you really need to identify the specific tire size you want, then go from there.
Click to expand...


I'd like to keep the current rims, do they make a 32/34" that will fit on them?
 
CharlesHS said:
Very true....
I have heard of people upgrading to 4.56/4.88 gears with 32/33" tires....
Click to expand...
With an automatic I would just jump to a 5.13. There will be no negative impact doing that, whether a 32 or 33" tire is used.
 
jsfoster75 said:
I'd like to keep the current rims, do they make a 32/34" that will fit on them?
Click to expand...
34" isn't a common size. For a 32" there are a decent number of choices. For a 33", there are lots of choices.
 
I had a 2"bb and 1" BL with 32's stock arms, track bars and liked it. I was running 4.10 gears on the 32rh.
 
You're opening a can of worms :)
I put 32" tires on my LJ with a Zone 3" suspension lift. With OEM Ravine wheels, I rubbed a little at full steering lock. I could have simply added a washer to the steering stop. Initially I used wheel spacers, but found out they weren't legal in PA, so I bought wheels with less backspacing.

The Zone kit included a rear trackbar relocation bracket, and drilled a new mounting hole for the front track bar. My rear axle is about 1/4" off center, and the front was at least 1/2" off. I centered the front with an adjustable track bar.

My transmission skid was lowered with spacers (3/4' or 1", can't remember exactly), and I had no vibration issues, but the acceleration was worthless unless I turned off the ridiculous 0.69 overdrive that comes with the 42REL transmission.

After regearing to 4.88, I had driveline vibrations. Upper rear adjustable control arms took care of most of the vibration. The remaining vibration may have been caused by worn u-joints in my driveshafts.

I wanted to raise the transmission skid up to OEM and remove the spacers, so I installed a SYE and double cardan rear driveshaft, and rebuilt my front drive shaft. Problem solved.

Although I had no vibration, I thought the Zone Nitro shocks rode rough. I replaced them with Rancho 5000X shocks. They were a great improvement.

Supposedly, LJ's with longer wheel base are less susceptible to driveline issues after installing a lift than a TJ.

On your budget, I'd piece together a set of springs, OME seem popular, and a set of Rancho shocks. Add a washer to the steering stop or buy new wheels. Although I couldn't tell the difference after centering my axles, I would install and adjustable front track bar and a relocation bracket for the rear.

If your driveshafts are in good shape, you may get away with rear upper adjustable control arms, but be prepared for the possibility of all 4 control arms, a SYE, and double cardan rear driveshaft.

If you regear, add about $1000 for parts, and $500 to $1500 for labor.

I replaced my rear bumper, but IIRC, the OEM bumper hit the 32" tire on the OEM carrier. They make a bracket that spaces it out and up.
 
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LukesfirstJeep said:
You're opening a can of worms :)
I put 32" tires on my LJ with a Zone 3" suspension lift. With OEM Ravine wheels, I rubbed a little at full steering lock. I could have simply added a washer to the steering stop. Initially I used wheel spacers, but found out they weren't legal in PA, so I bought wheels with less backspacing.

The Zone kit included a rear trackbar relocation bracket, and drilled a new mounting hole for the front track bar. My rear axle is about 1/4" off center, and the front was at least 1/2" off. I centered the front with an adjustable track bar.

My transmission skid was lowered with spacers (3/4' or 1", can't remember exactly), and I had no vibration issues, but the acceleration was worthless unless I turned off the ridiculous 0.69 overdrive that comes with the 42REL transmission.

After regearing to 4.88, I had driveline vibrations. Upper rear adjustable control arms took care of most of the vibration. The remaining vibration may have been caused by worn u-joints in my driveshafts.

I wanted to raise the transmission skid up to OEM and remove the spacers, so I installed a SYE and double cardan rear driveshaft, and rebuilt my front drive shaft. Problem solved.

Although I had no vibration, I thought the Zone Nitro shocks rode rough. I replaced them with Rancho 5000X shocks. They were a great improvement.

Supposedly, LJ's with longer wheel base are less susceptible to driveline issues after installing a lift than a TJ.

On your budget, I'd piece together a set of springs, OME seem popular, and a set of Rancho shocks. Add a washer to the steering stop or buy new wheels. Although I couldn't tell the difference after centering my axles, I would install and adjustable front track bar and a relocation bracket for the rear.

If your driveshafts are in good shape, you may get away with rear upper adjustable control arms, but be prepared for the possibility of all 4 control arms, a SYE, and double cardan rear driveshaft.

If you regear, add about $1000 for parts, and $500 to $1500 for labor.

I replaced my rear bumper, but IIRC, the OEM bumper hit the 32" tire on the OEM carrier. They make a bracket that spaces it out and up.
Click to expand...

thank you for the very detailed reply, I’ll have to look at all this whenever I get to work and can hash it out on my computer. The $1000 budget was mainly just for the lift, open to spending money on other projects if needed.
 
I’ll agree with what @LukesfirstJeep said. I put together my own kit with 32s (stock Ravines with spacers), OME springs and Rancho shocks and ended up adding an adj rear track bar plus a 1” BL. No vibes so I didn’t drop the skid or do anything with the control arms. I did add Rubicon stock flares so I am able to stuff my wider tires without issue.

If I were to do it again I would have just put on a simple 2” lift and run 31s. It really does open a can of worms going past 31s.

Going from 31 to 32 was VERY noticeable with the auto transmission.
 
Hoboscratch said:
I’ll agree with what @LukesfirstJeep said. I put together my own kit with 32s (stock Ravines with spacers), OME springs and Rancho shocks and ended up adding an adj rear track bar plus a 1” BL. No vibes so I didn’t drop the skid or do anything with the control arms. I did add Rubicon stock flares so I am able to stuff my wider tires without issue.

If I were to do it again I would have just put on a simple 2” lift and run 31s. It really does open a can of worms going past 31s.

Going from 31 to 32 was VERY noticeable with the auto transmission.
Click to expand...


I think we've decided to do the 2.5" lift (https://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-s...-3.html?find=2003-jeep-wrangler-tj-4wd-739170) with the Premium N3+ shock absorbers.

We are also going to stick with the 31x10.5r15 tires. :) I am going to put on some 1.5" spacers though.
 
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Chris said:
Simply because there’s so many better options than Rough Country garbage. That wouldn’t even be anywhere on my list of lifts I would consider.

I would rather do this:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/a-recipe-for-an-affordable-but-quality-2-5-lift.41687/
Click to expand...

Well, several of the items linked in that thread get horrible reviews... I'm not seeing the advantage to spending 2-3 times the price if they aren't up to par? The shocks get a ton of complaints about leaking after 6 months.
 
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