Best mild tummy tuck?

Anything to add? Might want to stick to face palm icons?
Sure, there’s a practicality and purity component to consider - but judging by your comment to @starkey480 you're not really willing to discuss it. You’re too easy to 🤦‍♂️ all day, since you drop things you think are whitty and ✌️out.
 
Didn’t someone on here bend their Savvy skid? Can’t recall the circumstances, and I could be wrong.
 
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I have the UCF extra clearance skid in aluminum. It's a good, mid level tuck. I think I'm 2" below the frame rails. I went with that one because I'm scared of all the issues that are possible with a full tuck in a Rubicon. I know a lot of guys run the Savvy... And it's probably the best one out there. But I want to stay away from vibes that won't go away, a rear driveshaft that might bind at full droop, etc.

All these issue are only possibilities, not guarentees. They also have work arounds. I just didn't want to deal with them. If I decide to go flatter, I'll make my own because I like the challenge.
 
Whether one thing is stronger than the other isn’t the right question. Whether something is strong enough is.
I'll throw in on this one and present an argument that perhaps a raised belly skid doesn't NEED to be as strong as everyone thinks. I built mine to stand up to the abuse in the rocks and be able to support the majority of the vehicle weight. Truth be told, I've had a hard time giving it a beat down because a tucked skid is much farther out of harms way than the stock shovel. It just doesn't make contact with stuff nearly as much as I was prepared for. At the end of the day, that's a good thing.
 
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I have the UCF extra clearance skid in aluminum. It's a good, mid level tuck. I think I'm 2" below the frame rails. I went with that one because I'm scared of all the issues that are possible with a full tuck in a Rubicon. I know a lot of guys run the Savvy... And it's probably the best one out there. But I want to stay away from vibes that won't go away, a rear driveshaft that might bind at full droop, etc.

All these issue are only possibilities, not guarentees. They also have work arounds. I just didn't want to deal with them. If I decide to go flatter, I'll make my own because I like the challenge.
I know where you're coming from. I was really concerned with going with a flat belly skid and not wanting to deal with all the extra work to make everything happy. It ended up not being not too bad, not nearly the headache I was dreading. I know everyone's rig is different (as well as everyone's headache meter) but I'm really glad I dove in an bit the bullet. I would definitely go with a flat belly again if I were given the chance.
 
Didn’t someone on here bend their Savvy skid? Can’t recall the circumstances, and I could be wrong.
Yeah, some one bent up their engine skid in JV last year. IIRC they were om 33s in JV and came down hard on a rock, enough so that Blaine showed some numbers suggesting anything else available would have also bent.
 
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Yeah, some one bent up their engine skid in JV last year. IIRC they were om 33s in JV and came down hard on a rock, enough so that Blaine showed some numbers suggesting anything else available would have also bent.
I completely turtled my rig on my savvy belly skid on the Rubicon. @mvigo said it'd be a perfect promotional pic for Savvy. It did not bend my skid. We could pretty much spin the jeep on it.
 
I don't have aluminum skid, but I definitely see the benefits of the weight savings associated. Both on the trail and in the shop (my steel skid is bitch to drop and put back up). There is also the benefit that aluminum will in fact peel away much easier than steel, so an aluminum skid will actually slide over rocks when bound up much easier than steel which will tend to dig into the rock. Some might see that as a negative but I see it as a positive. The benefits of weight savings is huge and should not be underestimated. A well designed lighter weight part that is designed to withstand the loads that it will see with a margin of safety, is way superior to throwing weight in the form of thicker steel at it. If heavier was better, planes would never fly, gravity is a bitch.

Ultimately, what ever gets me on the trails is what I go with, then learn my lessons, adjust accordingly, repeat...
 
I completely turtled my rig on my savvy belly skid on the Rubicon. @mvigo said it'd be a perfect promotional pic for Savvy. It did not bend my skid. We could pretty much spin the jeep on it.
I did this years ago on an aftermarket steel skid and bent the hell out of it! :cautious: It made me not think twice about going to aluminum.
 
I completely turtled my rig on my savvy belly skid on the Rubicon. @mvigo said it'd be a perfect promotional pic for Savvy. It did not bend my skid. We could pretty much spin the jeep on it.
Yeah, we’ve had a few guys on their skid and no noticeable bends yet. I presume that’s because it was both 6061-t6 and has the bracing.
 
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Yeah, some one bent up their engine skid in JV last year. IIRC they were om 33s in JV and came down hard on a rock, enough so that Blaine showed some numbers suggesting anything else available would have also bent.
That’s right. Thanks for the re-cap.
 
The Savvy style bent aluminum 6061 skid with the triangulated lowered center section + rear brace is an incredibly elegant design. I copied this through Blaine's tutelage when I made my skid out of 3/8 6061-T6 (https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...on-cross-member-and-transfer-case-skid.34524/). Once Blaine described why he designed the aluminum skid the way the did it became exceedingly apparent why my previous UCF mild steel skid bent so easily. The Savvy style skid i have not has been absolutely BEAT on drug over and dropped on all manner of glacial mineral remnants of the Pacific Northwest. It's also quite a bit lighter (25lbs??) than the UCF steel skid, it's no problem to raise and lower it by myself which i have done like 25 times.

As far as functional and low cost engine skid the flat plate is working great for me! Another Easter Egg from the Wizard. It's a strong recommendation from me for any build after you taco your first savvy/UCF/Rokmen etc engine skid.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...e-the-3-rs-of-a-first-build.30419/post-756063
 
The Savvy style bent aluminum 6061 skid with the triangulated lowered center section + rear brace is an incredibly elegant design. I copied this through Blaine's tutelage when I made my skid out of 3/8 6061-T6 (https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...on-cross-member-and-transfer-case-skid.34524/). Once Blaine described why he designed the aluminum skid the way the did it became exceedingly apparent why my previous UCF mild steel skid bent so easily. The Savvy style skid i have not has been absolutely BEAT on drug over and dropped on all manner of glacial mineral remnants of the Pacific Northwest. It's also quite a bit lighter (25lbs??) than the UCF steel skid, it's no problem to raise and lower it by myself which i have done like 25 times.

As far as functional and low cost engine skid the flat plate is working great for me! Another Easter Egg from the Wizard. It's a strong recommendation from me for any build after you taco your first savvy/UCF/Rokmen etc engine skid.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...e-the-3-rs-of-a-first-build.30419/post-756063
Your belly cleanup work was some of the inspiration I had to build my own. Thanks for the effort you put forth to document the project.
 
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The Savvy style bent aluminum 6061 skid with the triangulated lowered center section + rear brace is an incredibly elegant design. I copied this through Blaine's tutelage when I made my skid out of 3/8 6061-T6 (https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...on-cross-member-and-transfer-case-skid.34524/). Once Blaine described why he designed the aluminum skid the way the did it became exceedingly apparent why my previous UCF mild steel skid bent so easily. The Savvy style skid i have not has been absolutely BEAT on drug over and dropped on all manner of glacial mineral remnants of the Pacific Northwest. It's also quite a bit lighter (25lbs??) than the UCF steel skid, it's no problem to raise and lower it by myself which i have done like 25 times.

As far as functional and low cost engine skid the flat plate is working great for me! Another Easter Egg from the Wizard. It's a strong recommendation from me for any build after you taco your first savvy/UCF/Rokmen etc engine skid.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...e-the-3-rs-of-a-first-build.30419/post-756063
I wish savvy made a skid for the early TJs. My hand was forced over to UCF. You said it best in a post a while ago. The UCF skid is a steel design made out of aluminum. But there’s just not many other options out there
 
I wish savvy made a skid for the early TJs. My hand was forced over to UCF. You said it best in a post a while ago. The UCF skid is a steel design made out of aluminum. But there’s just not many other options out there
I too struggled with that having an early TJ. Did you ever consider making your own?
 
Your belly cleanup work was some of the inspiration I had to build my own. Thanks for the effort you put forth to document the project.
What is so rewarding is how well it works in practice. I do still get hung up on belly (happened last weekend) but that is because of poor line choice.
 
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I wish savvy made a skid for the early TJs. My hand was forced over to UCF. You said it best in a post a while ago. The UCF skid is a steel design made out of aluminum. But there’s just not many other options out there
I cannot recommend more highly that anyone and everyone add a crossmember to divorce the skid from the trans. It is so useful in troubleshooting and doing jeep work. After that the skid is just a question of frame bolt and clearance. Kind of simplifies the equation.