Story time? Seems like you’re really wanting toI guess if you haven't bent stuff you really shouldn't comment one way or another, that's how you see it right?
Story time? Seems like you’re really wanting toI guess if you haven't bent stuff you really shouldn't comment one way or another, that's how you see it right?
Anything to add? Might want to stick to face palm icons?Story time? Seems like you’re really wanting toargueshare something.
Sure, there’s a practicality and purity component to consider - but judging by your comment to @starkey480 you're not really willing to discuss it. You’re too easy to all day, since you drop things you think are whitty and out.Anything to add? Might want to stick to face palm icons?
I'll throw in on this one and present an argument that perhaps a raised belly skid doesn't NEED to be as strong as everyone thinks. I built mine to stand up to the abuse in the rocks and be able to support the majority of the vehicle weight. Truth be told, I've had a hard time giving it a beat down because a tucked skid is much farther out of harms way than the stock shovel. It just doesn't make contact with stuff nearly as much as I was prepared for. At the end of the day, that's a good thing.Whether one thing is stronger than the other isn’t the right question. Whether something is strong enough is.
I know where you're coming from. I was really concerned with going with a flat belly skid and not wanting to deal with all the extra work to make everything happy. It ended up not being not too bad, not nearly the headache I was dreading. I know everyone's rig is different (as well as everyone's headache meter) but I'm really glad I dove in an bit the bullet. I would definitely go with a flat belly again if I were given the chance.I have the UCF extra clearance skid in aluminum. It's a good, mid level tuck. I think I'm 2" below the frame rails. I went with that one because I'm scared of all the issues that are possible with a full tuck in a Rubicon. I know a lot of guys run the Savvy... And it's probably the best one out there. But I want to stay away from vibes that won't go away, a rear driveshaft that might bind at full droop, etc.
All these issue are only possibilities, not guarentees. They also have work arounds. I just didn't want to deal with them. If I decide to go flatter, I'll make my own because I like the challenge.
Yeah, some one bent up their engine skid in JV last year. IIRC they were om 33s in JV and came down hard on a rock, enough so that Blaine showed some numbers suggesting anything else available would have also bent.Didn’t someone on here bend their Savvy skid? Can’t recall the circumstances, and I could be wrong.
I completely turtled my rig on my savvy belly skid on the Rubicon. @mvigo said it'd be a perfect promotional pic for Savvy. It did not bend my skid. We could pretty much spin the jeep on it.Yeah, some one bent up their engine skid in JV last year. IIRC they were om 33s in JV and came down hard on a rock, enough so that Blaine showed some numbers suggesting anything else available would have also bent.
I did this years ago on an aftermarket steel skid and bent the hell out of it! It made me not think twice about going to aluminum.I completely turtled my rig on my savvy belly skid on the Rubicon. @mvigo said it'd be a perfect promotional pic for Savvy. It did not bend my skid. We could pretty much spin the jeep on it.
Yeah, we’ve had a few guys on their skid and no noticeable bends yet. I presume that’s because it was both 6061-t6 and has the bracing.I completely turtled my rig on my savvy belly skid on the Rubicon. @mvigo said it'd be a perfect promotional pic for Savvy. It did not bend my skid. We could pretty much spin the jeep on it.
Why don't you add something constructive for a change? Most of the posts I see from you are argumentative just for the sake of arguing. Like a kid that just wants to hear himself talk.Anything to add? Might want to stick to face palm icons?
That’s right. Thanks for the re-cap.Yeah, some one bent up their engine skid in JV last year. IIRC they were om 33s in JV and came down hard on a rock, enough so that Blaine showed some numbers suggesting anything else available would have also bent.
Your belly cleanup work was some of the inspiration I had to build my own. Thanks for the effort you put forth to document the project.The Savvy style bent aluminum 6061 skid with the triangulated lowered center section + rear brace is an incredibly elegant design. I copied this through Blaine's tutelage when I made my skid out of 3/8 6061-T6 (https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...on-cross-member-and-transfer-case-skid.34524/). Once Blaine described why he designed the aluminum skid the way the did it became exceedingly apparent why my previous UCF mild steel skid bent so easily. The Savvy style skid i have not has been absolutely BEAT on drug over and dropped on all manner of glacial mineral remnants of the Pacific Northwest. It's also quite a bit lighter (25lbs??) than the UCF steel skid, it's no problem to raise and lower it by myself which i have done like 25 times.
As far as functional and low cost engine skid the flat plate is working great for me! Another Easter Egg from the Wizard. It's a strong recommendation from me for any build after you taco your first savvy/UCF/Rokmen etc engine skid.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...e-the-3-rs-of-a-first-build.30419/post-756063
I wish savvy made a skid for the early TJs. My hand was forced over to UCF. You said it best in a post a while ago. The UCF skid is a steel design made out of aluminum. But there’s just not many other options out thereThe Savvy style bent aluminum 6061 skid with the triangulated lowered center section + rear brace is an incredibly elegant design. I copied this through Blaine's tutelage when I made my skid out of 3/8 6061-T6 (https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...on-cross-member-and-transfer-case-skid.34524/). Once Blaine described why he designed the aluminum skid the way the did it became exceedingly apparent why my previous UCF mild steel skid bent so easily. The Savvy style skid i have not has been absolutely BEAT on drug over and dropped on all manner of glacial mineral remnants of the Pacific Northwest. It's also quite a bit lighter (25lbs??) than the UCF steel skid, it's no problem to raise and lower it by myself which i have done like 25 times.
As far as functional and low cost engine skid the flat plate is working great for me! Another Easter Egg from the Wizard. It's a strong recommendation from me for any build after you taco your first savvy/UCF/Rokmen etc engine skid.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...e-the-3-rs-of-a-first-build.30419/post-756063
I too struggled with that having an early TJ. Did you ever consider making your own?I wish savvy made a skid for the early TJs. My hand was forced over to UCF. You said it best in a post a while ago. The UCF skid is a steel design made out of aluminum. But there’s just not many other options out there
What is so rewarding is how well it works in practice. I do still get hung up on belly (happened last weekend) but that is because of poor line choice.Your belly cleanup work was some of the inspiration I had to build my own. Thanks for the effort you put forth to document the project.
I cannot recommend more highly that anyone and everyone add a crossmember to divorce the skid from the trans. It is so useful in troubleshooting and doing jeep work. After that the skid is just a question of frame bolt and clearance. Kind of simplifies the equation.I wish savvy made a skid for the early TJs. My hand was forced over to UCF. You said it best in a post a while ago. The UCF skid is a steel design made out of aluminum. But there’s just not many other options out there