Although we do recommend and install fuses close to the battery for stuff like that, just know that even the high dollar Spod does not.
Best option for switched power in the engine bay?
- Thread starter MikekiM
- Start date
OP
I am a fan of 'an ounce of prevention'.
I'll see what my local parts store has in the way of fuse/circuit breakers. No doubt the marine supplier has something.. for five times the price.
Thank you for helping!!
Your bigger issue is a proper butt connector for 8 or 6 gauge to connect the fuse holder to the power cable and then a nice ring terminal to connect to the battery.
I would check the current draw of the
H3’s vs the OBA compressor. I would prefer the compressor on the 5 pin relay ( verify all 5 pins are used in the plug) as it will ground the load circuit when deenergized to prevent a voltage spike from going back into the module and causing damage.
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PYSUP2/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Take a look at these small compact and easy to wire close to the battery. You could also use a fusible link wire, which is special wire with a fireproof insulation designed to burn in severe over current situations. The size determines the current it can handle. The size should be two sizes under wire being protected. If the main wire is 8 gauge use a 10 gauge fuse link or you could calculate two smaller fuse link wires to work. You can usually find these in the “help” items at local auto parts store. It will be A 6” piece of wire with attached ring terminal. This is a simple clean way to protect a main power circuit. Just leave the fuse link exposed and not tied or bundled with other wires. Ford and Gm used these up until the 80’s.
(Edit)I misspoke above it should be 12 gauge link which is technically 4 gauge sizes smaller but wire is usually even gauges so 8 would use a 12. Here is a overview of fusible link wire.
https://www.wiringdepot.com/jt-t-tech-articles/Fusible-Link-Wire-FAQs
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OP
That’s not a big issue. Clip the butt connector Off and solder on a larger ring connector. Why is that a big issue?
Will look for the fusible link before I bottom everything up.
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I have also used 2 smaller links that equals the size needed, sometimes easier to find.
OP
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OP
Odd,,, I have the harness for the hardtop. Switches on the dash for wiper and defroster. But the relay empty... No contacts in the pin slots. I managed to get into the cabin and picked up switched power at the fuses.
I'd use one of these right off the PDC. Mine is mounted right on the bracket holding the PDC. If you screw up it just pops. They are marine breakers and mine has been in use for years and deals with the conditions under the hood just fine. I bought a few different current ratings and put the lowest one that doesn't trigger under normal use. I wouldn't personally use a fusable link or a fuse, these things are cheap and compact. Fuses are generally used instead of breakers because of cost and $5-10 for a breaker doesn't seem like a big deal to me in this application.
That is a good option too, but I have replace many of those type due to water intrusion and if using one of those I recommend a “ non cycling breaker” which yours appears to be. These breakers must be with the batt terminal connected to the positive feed for it to work correctly. A non cycling breaker will not reset until the short is removed due to a tiny heating wire around the bimetal contact inside this will keep the breaker open until the short is removed. I have seen cycling breakers causing the wire to burn a little more each time it resets. I now prefer the manual reset breakers since they have come down in price. They are compact, waterproof, easy to mount and available in high amperage.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MR1LVZS/?tag=wranglerorg-20
I'm confused, why do you need to add a main fuse for the actual unit? If there is a spike in amperage then 6 fuses will pop! What is the benefit in installing a large single fuse? You don't have a main breaker between the battery and the OEM fuse blocks so why have one for this?