Blower Motor Woes

Now I need to figure out why the heat is weak. Its got a new heater core last year so I really doubt that is bad already. Probably just need to check the blend doors and actuators. The modes change like they should such as defrost, foot vent, front vent, etc. Just do not think the temp door actuators are working if there is one or if it is some valve at the heater core hoses.
 
Same page (8W - 42 - 3), the Blend Door Actuator should decrease/increase the amount of heat taken in from the heater core and mixed with the outside air or A/C air.
Is your engine cooling system getting up to full temp (about 210 degrees F)? Do you feel any difference from about halfway to full "hot" on the blend (temp) control?
One possibility is some sort of physical obstruction to the blend door. Never dealt with it so, not certain how to check (hmmm, can't you see the door's lever from the outside (as in, outside of the air passages).
 
Yaaaaaaaaay!! Soooo glad it's working! (y)(y)(y)(y)
It's always the little things that bite ya!
Wow! Thanks for helping that guy!
My 2000 TJ control assembly melted when it was just about out of warranty. The dealership replaced it with a USED one that was slightly less melted (claiming they couldn't find a replacement). I kind of got the feeling they just didn't want to deal with it.
Is there a way to add an additional relay to the wiring to take some of the heat load?
 
Wow! Thanks for helping that guy!
My 2000 TJ control assembly melted when it was just about out of warranty. The dealership replaced it with a USED one that was slightly less melted (claiming they couldn't find a replacement). I kind of got the feeling they just didn't want to deal with it.
Is there a way to add an additional relay to the wiring to take some of the heat load?
OK, the highest current circuit controlled directly by the switch assembly is the blower motor.
looking at page 8W-42-3, you can see that the positive/battery power to the blower motor is supplied through the BLOWER MOTOR RELAY and goes directly to the motor from there, so that side it "protected" by a relay. The ground side, however, is where they actually control the speed of the motor and it, following the line from the other side of the motor, goes to connector C7 of the A/C heater control, through the fan speed switch which selects the number of resistors and, therefore the amount of total resistance in-line with the motor (thus, selecting the motor speed) to tie directly to ground. In all four speeds, the full current drawn by the motor + resistor combination goes through the motor speed switch (contacts 7, 8, 9, and 10; connections C1A, C1B, C1C, and C1D). The high speed contact (7 / C1A) would be the one that would have to supply the highest current.
The only way to pass this current off to relay(s) would be to place one between the switch connection (C1A, C1B, C1C, and C1D) and its connection to the BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR BLOCK. This would require a complete rewire of that switch in order to change it from acting as a power-director (choosing which path the current should take, through which resistors), to a relay control, controlling which of FOUR relays should be activated to make the same circuit connections.
If you are really interested in doing this, I could draw up a connection diagram to do it but, considering the work involved and the price and availability of aftermarket replacement control assemblies, I don't really think it would be worth it. I think you'd be ahead if you just bought a new assembly and held it in your spares in case your existing one ever fails...or just replace it now and be done. ;)
 
Great info. I APPRECIATE the help and insight. When my original controls melted and disabled 2 of the fan speeds, I'm not sure if there was an aftermarket replacement part yet. Now I see that you can get the entire assembly for under 100 bucks. Doesn't make sense to spend the time repairing the old one. Like you said, keep it for a backup or for spare parts...as I normally do.
Thanks for the help!!!!
 
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