Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

BMB -8 Steering Cooler and Setrab Trans Cooler

sunnysideup_lj

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This post will cover installing and a review of the Black Magic Brakes -8 Steering Cooler kit with the optional Setrab (53-10748-01) transmission cooler. I am installing this kit on my 2006 TJ Unlimited Rubicon. It is equipped with the 42rle automatic transmission. This thread will have multiple posts covering install and review at the end.

There are some good resources on the forum covering related topics. I used them as reference when I was installing this kit. They are attached below to help with installation.
PSC Hydro-Assist Installation Instructions (Using Black Magic Kit)
Setrab transmission oil cooler 53-10748 reference pictures to aid some installs
How to Install the Black Magic Brakes -8 Steering Cooler Kit with V Bar


The Black Magic Brakes -8 TJ Steering Cooler Kit w/Grill V Mount, Hose and Fittings arrived quickly, as expected packaging and contents were top notch. As noted on the website, the Setrab cooler is not included. Below are images of the contents. *Note, The fittings and hose pictured above the Setrab transmission cooler are for it. If you are installing the Setrab, I highly suggest contacting Blaine for these fittings. It makes the install more enjoyable.
IMG_6949.jpeg



Before diving into the install, I want to cover my current set up and experience. I have been running PSC's Hydro assist kit. This kit was installed about 3 years ago. It included their gear box, pump, cooler, and reservoir. This kit made a night and day difference with steering power. But unfortunately when fast steering input was given, I could feel the steering wheel become harder to turn. I changed the mounting location of the reservoir so it was closer and a more direct feed into the pump. My hope being it would resolve the issue I was experiencing, it did not. After chatting with Blaine, The next suspect was the -6 return line. PSC's kit is plumbed using -6 for the return. Blaine's -8 kit is designed around high flow, high pressure and low restriction on the return side. This kit replaces all the -6 return components and upgrades them to -8. Below are images of the PSC -6 return.
.
IMG_6877.jpeg

IMG_6874.jpeg

IMG_6875.jpeg



I opted to remove the grille to install the coolers and V mount. The power steering cooler may be installed with the grille still on the vehicle, but fighting the transmission cooler into place wasn't something I wanted to try. First I prepped the V bar and coolers. A coat of black paint was done on the brackets. To prep the coolers install the threaded adapters in both the Derale and the Setrab. The adapters should be installed with red Loctite. (NO Loctite on the AN side). This acts as a thread sealant and insures the adapters wont move when installing the AN fittings. Word from the wise, The Setrab is delicate, use a wrench to hold the boss when installing the adapter. Following the instructions found in the Black Magic Kit, mount the power steering cooler and transmission cooler using the suggested hardware. When completed the V mount with the coolers will be ready to install inside the grille.
IMG_6963.jpeg

IMG_6964.jpeg

IMG_6984.jpeg


Install the V mount with the coolers into the grille using the included hardware. If installing the Setrab, now is the time to cut holes in the air dam. I used a hole saw. I installed Blaine's fitting on the side of the transmission cooler. This fitting helps get the hose down and out of the grille ready for the AN fitting. Installing this cooler without this fitting would not be fun. Space is tight! Take your time. The last thing I wanted is to have issues that required pulling the grille.

IMG_6985.jpeg

IMG_6987.jpeg


Find the new included well nuts. Note that 2 of the well nuts have a thicker flange. These go at the bottom of the grille. The thinner flanges go to at the top of the grille. Install the well nuts with some super glue under the flange to keep them in place.
IMG_6990.jpeg


Below is an image of the grille ready to be reinstalled. Double check your work here. Make sure adapters are tight. You can see the transmission cooler fitting on the right side, it is tight and ready for the AN fitting. Access to the coolers and fittings gets harder from here on out.
IMG_6993.jpeg


Next post will include grille reinstall and hose routing.

IMG_6995.jpeg
 
This post will cover installing and a review of the Black Magic Brakes -8 Steering Cooler kit with the optional Setrab (53-10748-01) transmission cooler. I am installing this kit on my 2006 TJ Unlimited Rubicon. It is equipped with the 42rle automatic transmission. This thread will have multiple posts covering install and review at the end.

There are some good resources on the forum covering related topics. I used them as reference when I was installing this kit. They are attached below to help with installation.
PSC Hydro-Assist Installation Instructions (Using Black Magic Kit)
Setrab transmission oil cooler 53-10748 reference pictures to aid some installs
How to Install the Black Magic Brakes -8 Steering Cooler Kit with V Bar


The Black Magic Brakes -8 TJ Steering Cooler Kit w/Grill V Mount, Hose and Fittings arrived quickly, as expected packaging and contents were top notch. As noted on the website, the Setrab cooler is not included. Below are images of the contents. *Note, The fittings and hose pictured above the Setrab transmission cooler are for it. If you are installing the Setrab, I highly suggest contacting Blaine for these fittings. It makes the install more enjoyable.
View attachment 668829


Before diving into the install, I want to cover my current set up and experience. I have been running PSC's Hydro assist kit. This kit was installed about 3 years ago. It included their gear box, pump, cooler, and reservoir. This kit made a night and day difference with steering power. But unfortunately when fast steering input was given, I could feel the steering wheel become harder to turn. I changed the mounting location of the reservoir so it was closer and a more direct feed into the pump. My hope being it would resolve the issue I was experiencing, it did not. After chatting with Blaine, The next suspect was the -6 return line. PSC's kit is plumbed using -6 for the return. Blaine's -8 kit is designed around high flow, high pressure and low restriction on the return side. This kit replaces all the -6 return components and upgrades them to -8. Below are images of the PSC -6 return.
.View attachment 668827
View attachment 668825
View attachment 668826


I opted to remove the grille to install the coolers and V mount. The power steering cooler may be installed with the grille still on the vehicle, but fighting the transmission cooler into place wasn't something I wanted to try. First I prepped the V bar and coolers. A coat of black paint was done on the brackets. To prep the coolers install the threaded adapters in both the Derale and the Setrab. The adapters should be installed with red Loctite. (NO Loctite on the AN side). This acts as a thread sealant and insures the adapters wont move when installing the AN fittings. Word from the wise, The Setrab is delicate, use a wrench to hold the boss when installing the adapter. Following the instructions found in the Black Magic Kit, mount the power steering cooler and transmission cooler using the suggested hardware. When completed the V mount with the coolers will be ready to install inside the grille.
View attachment 668833
View attachment 668834
View attachment 668835


Install the V mount with the coolers into the grille using the included hardware. If installing the Setrab, now is the time to cut holes in the air dam. I used a hole saw. I installed Blaine's fitting on the side of the transmission cooler. This fitting helps get the hose down and out of the grille ready for the AN fitting. Installing this cooler without this fitting would not be fun. Space is tight! Take your time. The last thing I wanted is to have issues that required pulling the grille.

View attachment 668849
View attachment 668850

Find the new included well nuts. Note that 2 of the well nuts have a thicker flange. These go at the bottom of the grille. The thinner flanges go to at the top of the grille. Install the well nuts with some super glue under the flange to keep them in place.
View attachment 668869

Below is an image of the grille ready to be reinstalled. Double check your work here. Make sure adapters are tight. You can see the transmission cooler fitting on the right side, it is tight and ready for the AN fitting. Access to the coolers and fittings gets harder from here on out.
View attachment 668854

Next post will include grille reinstall and hose routing.

View attachment 668853
The only explaining I see that may be needed is why the fitting for the Setrab is on the right side. Just easier to do that way is all and we want to go in at the lower port and exit the cooler at the upper port to push air out and prevent an air lock, or try to anyway.
 
This won't matter to most but if I see something, I try to work around it and not make it worse. Because we are adding some thickness to the V bars where they bolt to the grill, that moves the head of the fastener into greater contact with mounting flange on the condenser. The thicker flange on the well nut spaces the condenser out a small amount to help with that as does the conventional hex head bolt instead of the flange head used at the upper pair of holes.
While I don't believe it would hurt much, it isn't the correct way to do things. This is the condenser that had the contact point in stock form on the stock V bar lower bolt.

1769526341476.png
 
This won't matter to most but if I see something, I try to work around it and not make it worse. Because we are adding some thickness to the V bars where they bolt to the grill, that moves the head of the fastener into greater contact with mounting flange on the condenser. The thicker flange on the well nut spaces the condenser out a small amount to help with that as does the conventional hex head bolt instead of the flange head used at the upper pair of holes.
While I don't believe it would hurt much, it isn't the correct way to do things. This is the condenser that had the contact point in stock form on the stock V bar lower bolt.

View attachment 669003

The little things sometimes turn into bigger things , good job on making the job as correct as you can .
 
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While I don't believe it would hurt much, it isn't the correct way to do things. This is the condenser that had the contact point in stock form on the stock V bar lower bolt.

Never realized that made contact. Not to derail this thread...but this might be a worthy point of discussion in the radiator thread as to why many manufacturers fail to build a TJ radiator.

-Mac
 
Never realized that made contact. Not to derail this thread...but this might be a worthy point of discussion in the radiator thread as to why many manufacturers fail to build a TJ radiator.

-Mac
Zero to do with the radiator. The radiator is well removed from that area and the only thing that can make contact with the bolt head is the mounting flange on the AC condenser which sits in front of the radiator.

The reason so many manufacturers fail at building a good radiator is they are building to a price point, not a quality point. If you wanted to build to a quality point, it doesn't take a genius to figure out that you buy an OEM radiator and copy it exactly or improve it. The problem with that is you wind up at a price point 25% higher than all your el cheapo competition and then the forums have too many folks who say its all the same shit anyway, just buy the cheapest. Where is the incentive to build a good radiator?
 
The only explaining I see that may be needed is why the fitting for the Setrab is on the right side. Just easier to do that way is all and we want to go in at the lower port and exit the cooler at the upper port to push air out and prevent an air lock, or try to anyway.

Makes sense why it would be installed in this orientation. The instructions mention to install the cooler this way, I simply followed.

This won't matter to most but if I see something, I try to work around it and not make it worse. Because we are adding some thickness to the V bars where they bolt to the grill, that moves the head of the fastener into greater contact with mounting flange on the condenser. The thicker flange on the well nut spaces the condenser out a small amount to help with that as does the conventional hex head bolt instead of the flange head used at the upper pair of holes.
While I don't believe it would hurt much, it isn't the correct way to do things. This is the condenser that had the contact point in stock form on the stock V bar lower bolt.

View attachment 669003

Great catch and solution! Your instructions are very clear on where to put the new hardware. Having the backstory brings this full circle.

Read the instructions or install notes with Blaine's products. Everything is done with a purpose.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts