Body rust: what would you do?

[Granite]

I’ve had some rust bubbling up through the paint and figured I’d tackle it like Chris Fix does.
So I removed the fender flares, fender liners, and rubi rails. In doing so I found some areas that were much worse and some evidence of prior patch work by the PO. As I started wire-wheeling I realized there’s a lot of rust seemingly between the surfaces of the fenders … like I’m worried how much I’ll need to remove.

So now my dilemma … do I invest in doing this right, having a body shop patch or replace panels? Or is this level of body rot inevitable no matter what I do? I’m not trying to build a show Jeep; I just would like to stop the rot if possible.

This corner was the worst and had previously been patched. The Rubi rail, fender liner and undercarriage coating were trapping water.

This is where I started wire wheeling and realized it was worse under the paint than I had hoped.

 

[P man]

Anything can be fixed but what does your budget look like? Rust repair is expensive and very few shops want to do it. There will be a huge difference in opinions depending on where you are located. On the west coast that is a parts jeep no question. The good news is since it's a rubi you have good value in the drive train if you decide to sell or part out

 

[Duck Doctor]

I’d sell as a parts vehicle and start over with a clean rust free rig. That frame looks to be in rough shape as well.

 

[JMT]

The fender is replaceable, the rocker panel not so much. To stop rust you have to get it all. Your torque boxes are probably frail.

If the frame is good then a tub swap would be in your future.

The other option is to sell the Rubi goods and hopefully recover $8k (doors, TCase, axles, hardtop??)

Rust is the debil.

 

[Shank]

If you could do the work it would likely be cheaper to source a tub and frame than it would be to take it to a body shop.


Your options on that Jeep are to part it out, sell as is, or replace the tub and frame.

 

[TheBoogieman]

The frame doesn't look too good. I'll take the wheels and tires.

 

[Granite]

these responses make me sad but I appreciate the honest perspectives; that’s why I asked here!

When I was looking to buy a jeep back in 2020 this one was in the best shape that I could find. The PO had painted the frame with rust preventative - and the frame does seem solid when I feel around inside the drain holes. I agree it looks rough but I think (hope) that’s just the paint. Maybe I’ll grind some off and see what it looks like.

Overall I still feel this Jeep is in good shape and like I said it makes me sad to think of parting it out. Not to mention I just invested a bunch of cash in tires and the Currie suspension I have yet to put on! But I don’t want to put a ton more into it if it’s going to be a lost cause.

I will check with a body shop too just to see what they say. Thanks everybody

 

[Mike_H]

I spent 850 bucks on a new tub with some body damage, but overall rust free. Then I sold my other tub for 400 bucks to someone who had a REALLY bad one.

Now, I'm looking for a frame. I thought mine was good until I found another "drain hole" right behind the skid plate.

 

[Shank]

I spent 850 bucks on a new tub with some body damage, but overall rust free. Then I sold my other tub for 400 bucks to someone who had a REALLY bad one.

Now, I'm looking for a frame. I thought mine was good until I found another "drain hole" right behind the skid plate.

How bad is it? One hole wouldn't necessarily constitute a whole frame swap. This one, however did.

 

[Shank]

these responses make me sad but I appreciate the honest perspectives; that’s why I asked here!

When I was looking to buy a jeep back in 2020 this one was in the best shape that I could find. The PO had painted the frame with rust preventative - and the frame does seem solid when I feel around inside the drain holes. I agree it looks rough but I think (hope) that’s just the paint. Maybe I’ll grind some off and see what it looks like.

Overall I still feel this Jeep is in good shape and like I said it makes me sad to think of parting it out. Not to mention I just invested a bunch of cash in tires and the Currie suspension I have yet to put on! But I don’t want to put a ton more into it if it’s going to be a lost cause.

I will check with a body shop too just to see what they say. Thanks everybody

The reality is you would be far cheaper trying to source a $1,000 tub, and a $2,000 frame and swapping everything, when one becomes available.

Now if you have to pay a shop to swap, it will be expensive.

 

[bluescapegoat]

As someone living in a rusty salty area and going over rust mitigation on my own Jeep... I'd inspect the frame really good. Drill the drain holes, run the sewer jet through the frame, go over it smacking it with a hammer. If all checks out there, then a tub swap, probably. Or coat all the rust in the tub in POR15 now just to prolong the life until an eventual tub swap. Once you por15 you've pretty much given up on any repairs, it'll be impossible to work on. But it'll last a little longer.

If it's like mine, the tub rot is only in that corner. My torque boxes and frame are 100% solid. Very frustrating, just poor water drainage in the design.

Front fenders are easy enough to just replace.

 

[Granite]

I do have the POR15 here ready to apply. Good advice to do a thorough frame and body rust assessment.

I wouldn’t mind doing a tub swap … I think I could handle that myself. That’s part of why I bought the Jeep … learning as I go.

 

[Shank]

I do have the POR15 here ready to apply. Good advice to do a thorough frame and body rust assessment.

I wouldn’t mind doing a tub swap … I think I could handle that myself. That’s part of why I bought the Jeep … learning as I go.

If you have the time and space, it really isn't that difficult. I had a new frame on my old TJ and had to patch floors, rockers, replace torque tubes (body mounts) in less than 2 months working on it after school and weekends.

 

[Mike_H]

How bad is it? One hole wouldn't necessarily constitute a whole frame swap. This one, however did.

Its not bad and I don't have any issue doing safety caps, however its tweaked in the front too, from a previous accident, so I figured I'd just replace it. Its not high on my list of priorities right now. Its not anywhere near dangerous to drive yet, so I'm just casually looking for a good deal to pop up.

 

[Shank]

Its not bad and I don't have any issue doing safety caps, however its tweaked in the front too, from a previous accident, so I figured I'd just replace it. Its not high on my list of priorities right now. Its not anywhere near dangerous to drive yet, so I'm just casually looking for a good deal to pop up.

That makes sense. I couldn't see swapping a frame for the most common area to rust (even my frame I swapped was a little thin in that spot, I patched it).

 

[bluescapegoat]

I do have the POR15 here ready to apply. Good advice to do a thorough frame and body rust assessment.

I wouldn’t mind doing a tub swap … I think I could handle that myself. That’s part of why I bought the Jeep … learning as I go.

Just buy a box of ziplock bags and a sharpie and label all the nuts and bolts you take off. Even if you think awe man I'll never forget what this one goes to, label it.

 

[Granite]

Just buy a box of ziplock bags and a sharpie and label all the nuts and bolts you take off. Even if you think awe man I'll never forget what this one goes to, label it.

I just finished taking off the Rubi rails, fender flares and fender liners. Lots of cutting. I’d say maybe 30% of the fasteners survived in reusable condition. I bought all new hardware for reassembly. I’d assume the same goes for a tub swap on a rust belt Jeep … but I dig the concept and could keep and label “samples” to help me figure out where the new hardware I’ll have to buy goes!

 

[bluescapegoat]

I just finished taking off the Rubi rails, fender flares and fender liners. Lots of cutting. I’d say maybe 30% of the fasteners survived in reusable condition. I bought all new hardware for reassembly. I’d assume the same goes for a tub swap on a rust belt Jeep … but I dig the concept and could keep and label “samples” to help me figure out where the new hardware I’ll have to buy goes!

Yup. I'm just doing a refresh on mine since it's no longer doing daily driver duties. Every bolt that even looks a little shitty gets measured, and put in a labeled bag. Then I'm sourcing new bolts and putting them in a bag right beside it.

Replacing all the hardware does get expensive though, so it's again sort of an assessment of whether or not it's worth it.

Also chasing/tapping any captive nuts or otherwise unservicable threaded areas and a lot of anti-seize on threads.

While we're on the topic, I've been taking all the surface rust down to metal with a die grinder, then treating it with phosphoric acid. That will turn the iron oxide to iron phosphate and neutralize the rust. But it only does what's on the surface. Phosphoric acid is, as far as I can tell, the main ingredient in most expensive "rust converter" products. But you can buy it by the gallon at most hardware stores for much cheaper. (maybe not in california)

 

[jbarnes85]

As said earlier, the fenders are an easy fix. Tub wise before you invest the time and materials in fixing that I would source a tub from a southern state. I got a bunch of sheetmetal from a guy in NC that parts out very nice Jeeps. Time and money wise I just think it's easier. I have done it both ways.

 

[steelhd]

The PO had painted the frame with rust preventative - and the frame does seem solid when I feel around inside the drain holes.

Borescopes that connect to your cell phone are cheap on places like Amazon. Probably a good idea to get one and really take a good look inside the frame.