Brake related brain trust and the lack of understanding thereof.

I’m actually getting sick of painting stuff

I’d rather just install it and spray it with CRC marine protectant. Plus it would match antirock links
 
How much does it cost to zinc coat a batch of steel rods?
Zinc is about 40 cents a pound. Each rod is about 12 pounds x 40 per batch or 192.0 base cost + hazmat fees, and other small charges. Likely come in around 250 or so.

I wouldn't plate them due to logistics. They have to come here from the treater and get split and a tap run through the threads. Then they would have to be transported to the plater and then back which would add another 150ish.
 
I’m actually getting sick of painting stuff

I’d rather just install it and spray it with CRC marine protectant. Plus it would match antirock links
It would be easier if we didn't have to split them after heat treat and then have to transport them someplace else. I may be convinced to rattle can a few by special request provided the color is black in semi-gloss or gloss. They would be absolutely zero warranty or expectation that it would arrive unscathed with no scratches or imperfections in the paint though.
 
Not necessary, for me any way. I’ve got zj steering rn($7 junkyard). I’ve also got a savvy front bumper to paint so... painting is a pain in the ass so I’d rather get as much done in one shot.

Definitely getting currectlync. Could you offer us plebs a complete package?
 
Isuzu rodeo 44 was an odd exception, not sure if you would consider it a short wheelbase or not. With full size gm calipers, the metric calipers on the rear gave a good bias…
I plugged in a 2000ish model, 106" with a full metal roof and sides so almost certainly a bit more weight on the rear than we deal with and more wheelbase than the TJ Unlimited. What do you call it?

But, they have ABS and if you do the math, the rear piston area is right at 1/2 of the front or 2.27 square inches versus 4.37 at the fronts. Right in line with the typical rule of 2x. That particular caliper has a tiny 41mm piston so even smaller than the TJ rear at 48mm and in caliper pistons, that is a very big difference. That small caliper also says that the existence of a vented rotor may not be what it appears on the surface.

Since they are using that caliper piston size, you have to ask yourself, is the vented rotor back there because it is needed or is it there because it was easier to build a thicker rotor to fit a caliper that was off the shelf and readily available? It they chose to make a rotor to fit a caliper, then it would have to be vented to keep the weight and resulting costs down because a solid rotor that thick would be fairly silly.

Now before you start to think that question is a justification, consider the 05 Dodge Dually. The rear calipers are built for a 702 pad shape but with a suffix of S so a 702S pad. I don't know what the S stands for, I suspect it means special. In this case, the difference is the 702 and 702S have different thicknesses of pad material on them. That is done so they can use them with different thickness vented rotor since the typical location for a 702 is on the front of Fords.

Again, did Isuzu use a vented rear rotor because it needed one due to how much work they do or did they solve another problem and the vented rotor was just a way to get there?

Are we all in agreement that the reason front rotors are vented is because of the work they do or do we need to beat that one into submission as well?
 
I plugged in a 2000ish model, 106" with a full metal roof and sides so almost certainly a bit more weight on the rear than we deal with and more wheelbase than the TJ Unlimited. What do you call it?

But, they have ABS and if you do the math, the rear piston area is right at 1/2 of the front or 2.27 square inches versus 4.37 at the fronts. Right in line with the typical rule of 2x. That particular caliper has a tiny 41mm piston so even smaller than the TJ rear at 48mm and in caliper pistons, that is a very big difference. That small caliper also says that the existence of a vented rotor may not be what it appears on the surface.

Since they are using that caliper piston size, you have to ask yourself, is the vented rotor back there because it is needed or is it there because it was easier to build a thicker rotor to fit a caliper that was off the shelf and readily available? It they chose to make a rotor to fit a caliper, then it would have to be vented to keep the weight and resulting costs down because a solid rotor that thick would be fairly silly.

Now before you start to think that question is a justification, consider the 05 Dodge Dually. The rear calipers are built for a 702 pad shape but with a suffix of S so a 702S pad. I don't know what the S stands for, I suspect it means special. In this case, the difference is the 702 and 702S have different thicknesses of pad material on them. That is done so they can use them with different thickness vented rotor since the typical location for a 702 is on the front of Fords.

Again, did Isuzu use a vented rear rotor because it needed one due to how much work they do or did they solve another problem and the vented rotor was just a way to get there?

Are we all in agreement that the reason front rotors are vented is because of the work they do or do we need to beat that one into submission as well?
I agree that the fronts need venting for cooling, I tried the factory rear rodeo calipers and they were just too small, so I went to a GM metric caliper which balanced out the brakes with the factory Grand waggy front GM calipers. the thicker rotor just made it easier to find caipers to balance the bias.
 
I agree that the fronts need venting for cooling, I tried the factory rear rodeo calipers and they were just too small, so I went to a GM metric caliper which balanced out the brakes with the factory Grand waggy front GM calipers. the thicker rotor just made it easier to find caipers to balance the bias.
So that begs the question, why is there a vented rotor with such a small caliper? It certainly isn't doing enough work to warrant a vented rotor so why is the rotor there?

What exactly do you mean by "balanced"?
 
So that begs the question, why is there a vented rotor with such a small caliper? It certainly isn't doing enough work to warrant a vented rotor so why is the rotor there?

What exactly do you mean by "balanced"?
In my application, I used a waggy 6 bolt front and needed a 6 bolt rear, put the jeep on a dirt road and the factory rear calipers would allow the back of the jeep to want to pass up the front because the fronts would lock up and the rears were still rolling in 2wd. went to the metric caliper, performed another panic stop and the jeep remained straight.

While not a perfect test, braking works good for this application and the calipers improved handling in a panic braking situation. this improved my offroad capability and helps helps me when trying to stop on a steep dirt hill to not have the back end want to swing around to the front if I want to slow down with the brakes.

If I decide to upgrade the fronts, I may try to see how the bigger GM front calipers do for stopping and then see how the rears fare, I hope the rears just need a pad change to keep the bias acceptable.
 
Possibly but not likely at this point. I posted up that I could attempt to acquire the tie rod ends from Rock Jock for them and there was exactly zero interest.
That’s cool 😎 I’ll just get the full kit and keep a spare tie rod for a buddy.
 
In my application, I used a waggy 6 bolt front and needed a 6 bolt rear, put the jeep on a dirt road and the factory rear calipers would allow the back of the jeep to want to pass up the front because the fronts would lock up and the rears were still rolling in 2wd. went to the metric caliper, performed another panic stop and the jeep remained straight.

While not a perfect test, braking works good for this application and the calipers improved handling in a panic braking situation. this improved my offroad capability and helps helps me when trying to stop on a steep dirt hill to not have the back end want to swing around to the front if I want to slow down with the brakes.

If I decide to upgrade the fronts, I may try to see how the bigger GM front calipers do for stopping and then see how the rears fare, I hope the rears just need a pad change to keep the bias acceptable.
As long as you understand that your test is completely opposite in your perception of the results than most of the entire rest of the world. Typically and by a very large margin, the rears do not lock up to stabilize the rear of the vehicle during front lock up in a panic stop.

If we could reliably get the TJ rears to lock up in a panic stop, the number of them on the road would be reduced by an extremely large number. That is due to our high frequency of rain showers on the freeways that turn them into very low traction surfaces after dry periods. You try that same panic stop on our freeways and get any rear lock up, you'll be sideways into the lines of cars in front of you that drive like idiots and wait until the last second to stop.
 
As long as you understand that your test is completely opposite in your perception of the results than most of the entire rest of the world. Typically and by a very large margin, the rears do not lock up to stabilize the rear of the vehicle during front lock up in a panic stop.

If we could reliably get the TJ rears to lock up in a panic stop, the number of them on the road would be reduced by an extremely large number. That is due to our high frequency of rain showers on the freeways that turn them into very low traction surfaces after dry periods. You try that same panic stop on our freeways and get any rear lock up, you'll be sideways into the lines of cars in front of you that drive like idiots and wait until the last second to stop.
I Understand what you mean, I didnt want them to lock up, just wanted the rears to apply enough braking to keep it straight.
 
You try that same panic stop on our freeways and get any rear lock up, you'll be sideways into the lines of cars in front of you that drive like idiots and wait until the last second to stop.
When faced with an emergency or panic situation, it's always a toss-up for me: do I hit the idiot in front of me or let the tailgating idiot behind, hit me? Last two times I have been in this quandary, I was lucky enough to have sufficient room to get out of everyone's way and let them hit each other.
 
When faced with an emergency or panic situation, it's always a toss-up for me: do I hit the idiot in front of me or let the tailgating idiot behind, hit me? Last two times I have been in this quandary, I was lucky enough to have sufficient room to get out of everyone's way and let them hit each other.
In CA that is a no brainer. If you hit the guy in front of you, 100% at fault for you for following too closely. That means the guy that hits you is 100% at fault. Make it his fault.
 
When faced with an emergency or panic situation, it's always a toss-up for me: do I hit the idiot in front of me or let the tailgating idiot behind, hit me? Last two times I have been in this quandary, I was lucky enough to have sufficient room to get out of everyone's way and let them hit each other.
Shake a can of soda and open it out your window, stops the tailgating real quick. May need to carry a case a day in California…
 
Shake a can of soda and open it out your window, stops the tailgating real quick. May need to carry a case a day in California…
Ive seen where people tweaked their rear window washer fluid nozzles to spray into the slipstream. Dont know how well that works though.