Broken blend door actuator arm

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woody367

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 6, 2017
Messages
248
Location
Long Island, NY, United States
My 97 TJ with just heat has a broken blend door actuator arm. I have been looking up threads on how to fix it. My question is
1- how do I get the metal retaining clip off the arm.
2- how doe the actuator come ot for more room.
3- is the other arm going to be in my way'

The broken arm is on the top actuator for the panel/demist door in the photo below. I am 6'2" and will remove the seat but think it will still be a pain to get in there

Also not to start another post. Does it matter what brand tenp sensor I get as I am putting in a ne t-stat and housing. mine has a crack. Thank you

1617130900289 (1).png
 
is it the metal arm or the plastic one ? usually the plastic ones break ! you can just rotate the arm and remove it from the plastic arm.
 
Might want to just pull the dash, replace the heater core, ac condenser (and drier).

With everything out you can clean everything and test the actuators with a vaccum pump like a mighty vac.

I just did it on my 97...it's a big job but completely worth it...of course I had antifreeze all over my floors.

-Mac
 
Heater core is not leaking and it id not worth it to me to pull the dash apart just to get the dash vents to work. This is no fancy TJ just one for plowing. If it has heat it is good.How do the actuators get removed? The plastic arm is still on the metal rod with the retainor clip. The broken peice is still inside so I will try using a wood screw to pull that peice out.
 
I think the metal arm is connected by a little hook.

The plastic one for the main vent blender door is by an inserted clip... which easily breaks.

I think you gotta remove the dash.. if not the whole hvac assembly to properly access it.
 
all 3 have the same stupid barb that holds it on . i put a thin coat of black RTV / silicone on mine when i put them in. that way if that tiny barb breaks again it will stay in place and is still free to move. dont put alot on it just a coat on the geared part and slide it in place, then let it sit about 20 or 30 min and rotate the arm by hand a few times to make sure you didnt get too much on it. reinstall the metal arm on it and it wont pop out again it that stupid barb breaks. use RTV / silicone not any type of glue because you can still remove it if you have to.
 
woody367 said:
Never heard of it, where do you get it?
I think just WD-40 would work but not sure how I might be able to get to that door to lube up.
Click to expand...
Ok I am pulling your leg ID 10 T oil is a joke its ID10T (idiot oil) it is what you send the new guys on the job site in search of like a brass magnet
 
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